Joey Mack

Yes. To a point .. but. Since you have a concern, you may want to keep testing.

I always forget. The one with 3 wires is it.. I think.. the other is temp. It will have a brass probe on the end. The pressure sensor has a small opening in the end.

It is possible,. With this new info... Check to see if that EUP has broken and /or loose hold down bolts.. if so,, the EUP is moving up and down, riding the cam lobe.. it WILL leak... Should see leakage outside too..

Hopfully its that or the EUP o-rings..

FJH,, I'm glad you posted your opinion.. I re built those 2 engines last year because of it..

I looked again... It almost looks like that left rear leaves are cracked right behind the u-bolts..

I like the grease on the slack adjuster.. The spring end moved to one side indicates the plate in the rubber bolster is broken loose. I bet if you turn the truck hard right or left, and set the brakes and get out, the drives will be offset.. is the other end of the crooked spring moved to the opposite side?

Thanks FJH.. I just went through this last summer with 2 in a row, an E-Tech that had a bad fuel pump, and the fuel washed the bearings, (Re-build)... The second was an ASET.. I found both compression rings on #3+#4 piston were stuck in the grooves.. and also found the hidden gallery plugs loose..

yes

Yes the lift pump can fail.. (Your unit is updated from the E-Tech series. those had a few issues).. when the pan is down, get familiar with the space between the front timing cover and the fuel pump..( its barely an inch of space) put your eyes on the drive gear as best you can.. spray brake clean up there to wash the engine oil off the gear and block.. let it dry or use shop air to dry it.. when you do the pressure test, if you see fuel dripping from that spot, its highly likely the fuel pump seal has failed, and the pump will need to be replaced.. its tricky, but you can pull the fuel pump away from the block a bit to let it drip out side the engine to check for a leak, because above the fuel pump gear is another 1/4'' pipe plug that is in the fuel gallery.. it is below the one you posted a picture of.. If it leaks (and it can) it will go directly into the crank case. if you have the fuel pump pulled back, (all lines and filter still installed) and pressure test the fuel gallery, and fuel is NOT dripping from the fuel pump but is running down the front of the block from the fuel pump area, then that little bastard plug is leaking.. Are you following me so far?? I am not trying to build a mountain with a molehills worth of dirt, but I have been here many times, and with the cost of firing a parts cannon nowadays, I make sure I test as much as I can... even if the labor is a bit much.. jojo

I guess I ''Sidetracked'' a bit there.. anyway, I suppose I should copy and paste it to ''Best of Biden''

Liberal Progressive Democrats, ruined the Democrat Party, and now they are destroying the U.S.-oF A. Promoting what all of us know is Morally wrong, and telling us to accept it.. All the while, letting criminals off with minor or no consequences. And also putting Black against White, because they need to keep a 'War' going in America.. Watch and see what will happen when the courts are run by Progressive judges with agenda's rather that the rule of LAW... If they can accuse Trump of 34 felonies without listing them, They will surely destroy every Conservative that is on trial, (no matter their status in society) even if there is a video proving innosense.

🍻

yes

yes. You can remove the fuel line that comes from the tank to the primary fuel filter, pull the fitting out of the filter pad and plug the port, so you can maintain pressure.. I suggest using a pressure regulator and start at 50 PSI and check it. it may take a minute or 2 to see a leak.. dont go higher than 70 PSI.. Be cautious..

dont run the engine,. is it in the shop where the work will be done?

on the front of the engine by the over board breather is a 1/4" pipe plug. use a 1/4'' ratchet to remove it.. you can put shop air in that port at around 70 PSI. with the oil pan down, you can look up at the center lobes on the cam to see if fuel is coming out..

I see the difference.. nice illustration.. you have something in the oil.. likely its fuel.. an oil analysis is in order, as was stated earlier..

yes sir.. do you know the history on the EUP's? are they original, or have any been replaced right before this issue started?

picture #2 looks like fuel dilution to me.. I prefer card board because it slowly absorbs oil and quickly absorbs fuel or water.. but you did good.. what does the back side smell like?

Mech.. I am a Proud Dumpster Diver... I save hundreds of dollars every year, and what I take to the scrap yard makes me money.. I stripped a stainless steel cabinet of all the guts (Copper) I got $120.00 for the scrap, and made a gun cabinet with the 6 foot tall stainless steel cabinet (Worth thousands ) .. Youngn's dont have a clue or a care.... I gladly take their trash...

🍻 remember,,,, keep your wallet closed for right now...

OK.. Thanks for being honest... There are a lot of us here that can help guide you.. The oil needle should rise quickly.. Just for kicks ,, remove the oil pressure sensor(s), should be on the right side of the oil filter stand behind the filter, and use some carb cleaner in a can and spray the end of the sensors till it is washed clean, re-install, and test it again..

hook a hand held pressure gauge to the oil filter stand and get a true reading.. The sensor may be failing. Dont open your wallet yet.. do a couple tests.. are you an 'engine guy'?? jojo

Yes too the oil analysis... when you pull the dipstick does the oil run off like water? You can do a halo test on a clean piece of card board to see if there is fuel in the oil. I have posted this test before.. It is not better than an oil analysis, but it will tell you right now if there is a fluid other than oil in the crank case.. Have the EUP's been replaced recently, or the fuel pressure regulator? fuel pressure should be between 50 + 80 PSI.. jojo