Joey Mack

That's good, that you figured it out..

Yes it was stolen!! That is what makes me mad . They will do it again. I don't believe he won, and never will.. 80 million votes my ASS...

so true Bob.. I have the '48,, 2 years now.. I have gotten some good things done, but I obviously have to keep my daily drivers, driving. It's all good.. jojo

Ok. I will... Thanks Bud..

No good news yet on getting a starter.. However, 3 of my trucks went down since yesterday. I have 2 of them back on the road, the 3rd. one is going to be a bit pricy, so the '48 is going to have to wait a bit.. Jojo

King Biden, wont go to Ohio to help the people there after the train wreck, instead he goes to Ukraine with $400 billion. and the other day he goes to Selma Alabama to show respect for the Bloody Sunday Killings back in 1965.. A typical Democrat... all he cares about is: Image,, Power,,, and kissing A$$ to get votes.. To hell with whats good for the majority of our U.S. CITIZEN'S.... Just do what we can to get votes, and if we don't get them, we will just take the WIN anyway..

you nailed it MarkT... the single shift rail is decent, there is a cap screw in it that is prone to loosening up, which will stop you from selecting gears. Whenever I have one of these apart, I remove that bolt and loctite it and put it back, or replace it. May I suggest you do that, and since its on the floor, I would replace the synchronizer and the drive hub in the front of the rear section. also,,, another issue these have is: snapping the snaprings on the range fork. very easy to fix. just buy new snap rings now, and install them. Dont know if you ever had one of these apart, but you have to lift the top shifter cover, in order to remove the back box.. The older ones did not need this step to be done. stand it up on its nose, for the back box repair, and the back box assembly will drop right on .. Let us know if you dig in and need guidance.. I have done dozens of these back boxes, (Most were in the truck), i made tools to do them in-frame. but on the floor is a breeze.. jojo P.S. it looks like a 210C... the 210B uses the same back box cover. you did see the rectangular oil cooler on the bottom? right?? reminder,,, 16210C has a 62 tooth synchro gear.. You got this..

All Good Bob, My everyday truck threw a code for exhaust. Inspection due this month.. I removed the exh. from the Manifold to the muffler.. Manifold is cracked, #2 o2 sensor just fell out, lots of rust, and B.S. so I am fixing this truck first. Not a big deal.... just more time and money.. Still WAYYYYY cheaper than makin a payment on a new(er) truck... I've had this truck for 22 years.. Treated me better than a lot of people have.. just sayin'..... jojo

Thanks Bob, I'm really not fussy.. Don't have the wallet for that. My thoughts have always been to try to keep the 1948 look, for when I bring it to truck shows.. I want to hide the modern reliability under the 'Old Timey' look.. I'm even goint to try and leave the old wiring in place but have my new wiring sorta hidden.. just sayin'.. I hope you had a good weekend Bob... jojo

Im going to put a delco alternator on it for now until I can afford one of those alternators that looks like the 'old timey'.. one that is on it now.

Holy Crap !!!!!

I'm not a Wizard when it comes to all the different Eatons out there. I have seen a lot of those (looks like a 2002 CX-613) with Eaton FRO16210C. (Metric). not sure if theis helps, but the 16210C has a built in tranny cooler, identifiable by the rectangular cover on the bottom of the tranny, with bolts all around it.. I do know the synchro drive hub is a 62 tooth gear in the 'C' model, and I believe 60 teeth in the 'B' model's,, just in case you have the back box off.. I hope I helped in some small way.. jojo

I am converting to 12 volt neg. ground. I already have some of it done. The starter is in rough shape, take another look at the pictures. I had to switch gears.. My Toyota, threw an exh. code and I found a leaking cat. joint and manifold. I just removed the exhuast from the manifold to the muffler.. My manifold is cracked in several places. So the KB-7 money is making a U-Turn.. I will keep in touch if I get good news on the KB-7 starter. Thanks guys.. jojo

'67RModel ... I went to the IH forum and created an acct. I should have done it 2 years ago when I bought my IH.. Thanks again, Jojo

I was hoping so Hayseed.. It did start up much better with a 12 volt battery. and it ran better too. Thanks 67RModel, I will check it out.. jojo

Here is the starter. Direct Drive, CW rotation, 10 tooth, 6-volt, 3 mounting holes..

Hi guy's... I need a starter for my '48 Int. KB-7. It is a 6 volt, positive ground truck, but I am changing it to 12 volt neg. ground.. The current starter is a Delco 737 Z / 259595.. I have been on-line for over 2 hours, with no luck.. Does anyone know of a company that can cross reference this starter, and possibly know if there is a 12 volt version. Part 2.. When I got this truck I used a 12 volt battery, not knowing it was 6 volt. it actually started just fine. Is it possible, that a 6 volt starter is capable of handeling 12 volts, just like some truck starters that are 12/24 volt? I dont beleive the 12 volts is what causes my starter to click, I think it is because it is really rusty and has some rot. Pics are on the way..Jojo

yup, just jack up on the center of the trunnion bar ubtil the weight is off the saddles. Then grease it till grease popps out of the bleeder in the end cap.

Mark!!!!!! Dont Jinx us.. Dammit man... Now you got me scared.. With the way they Appoint people, instead of winning the vote. You may be right...

good batch of truth... jojo

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All of the ones I did required removal of the body. Then pull all cross members behind the trunnion, and I would cut the Hucks on one side for the X-Members in front of the A-Frame, then use a ports power to spread the frame and then simply roll the whole assembly out. I'm guessing you can't do that..

Well, since it's a garbage truck, I assume lifting the body is too much work, I also assume the A-Frame is not cracked at the top or rotted through just above the trunion bar.. yes to splitting the eyes to slide the trunnion out. I have seen that done many times. There is a company here called Axle Surgeons, that will cut out the old bar and install a new one.. you have to have the wheels off and 6 feet of room around the truck. The last one I had done was 3 years ago.. $1500.00 parts and labor . I myself have done many complete A-Frame replacements, where I split the frame and rolled it out on it's wheels. I guess you have a rear packer trash truck.. so the body has to come off.. keep in touch, Jojo

Are you removing the whole A-Frame? is the A-Frame rotted out? How is the truck built? ie: tractor/ dump/ roll-off.... maybe some pics of the rear of it, from the rear.. jojo

Yeah that's it..... You guys are smart...