Joey Mack

I dont think there is an age.. I think its more of the condition and mind strength of the person.. My father in law retired from operating a motor grader at 75.. He lived 10 more years.. However I currently work with a 70 year old man who is having some issues, he has crashed the city truck several times in the last few years, one was a total loss. the two, I witnessed, was ,, he smashed the driver side mirror, twice.. to me he is not old, but his mind and vision, is failing.. It is sad to see.. He is a good man.. but he is dangerous behind the wheel of an F-350 dually.. I have also worked with drivers that were well into their 70's and keeping a good pace.. Paul, Maybe the young'n needs you to make his lunch from a can of 'Whoop-ass', and see what and old Bloke can do.. I don't have a better answer than, It is about the person in question, not the age.. Jojo

Welcome Mark, If you post some pics of yours we can point you in the right direction. Camel back bolster replacement is easy to understand, just laborious.. ATRO makes an excellent kit that is a lot cheaper and more complete than MACK's kit.. and is found at many truck part's stores. Jojo

A smoker is an awesome idea... If I get another one, it's on..... It looks like this now.....

On the B - Model there may be a seal in the center of the inside of the hub. I believe the back half is greased and the outer is in oil... The last one I worked on, I removed the inner seal and put a modern seal in the inside. So far after over a year, there's no leak.

ok.. as long as a pro did it,, good deal..

Those are measured shims. the number on the side is the part group + the shim thickness in thousanth's of an inch.. Extremely important for proper bearing pre-load.. Which for re-used bearings is 2-5 lbft, and for new bearings, it is 3-6 lbft.. Did you replace the outer cam drum? jojo

I know.. You are correct.. I think He needs to do a bit more.. Im all about the customer, for lack of a better word.. and would rather not have to be called on to fix it.. I appreciate your approach... All Good.. Jojo

FJH... We need to help cut his cost and downtime, anyway WE can.. Go Team !!! I hope he doesn't have to take it to any shop, and he solves the issue himself.. one or more of us, will help him.. jojo

Yes sir.. I worked for a lot of guys with small budgets.. I would take the time, or extra time on diag. To be sure I wasn't just tossing parts at it.. a lot of my approach had been more diag, and less parts changing.. There is where my idea about pulling the shift cover comes in.. and because you said coolant was coming out of the breather... Also,. When you have the cover off, and you flush it out with brakeclean or something, you can put a couple gallons of cheaper oil in it with a pint of ATF, drop the cover back on the keep the sliding clutches in neutral, and let it idle for five minutes to wash the water out of the bearings.. no need to rev it up or hear it up, it's just a rinse.. then drain that dirty oil out, and see if it's ready for a new dose of 50W synth. Oil.. Jojo

Wow a lot has changed.. I worked on a lot of Tony's trucks at P, S&G... He had some DM pit trucks that were tough.. I was at Maine Mack when Dick O'Connor bought it.. gave them 3 years of my time before I moved to N.C. and, are you telling me they filled in the Mile deep pit, and put in a shopping center?? Wasn't that Blue Rock? I forget. I've been away 17 years.. I remember Les Wilson,. I used to build tranny's and rears for them to put on the shelf.. I learned a lot back then,.. Thank you for responding.. It's nice to chat with someone from So. Maine... Jojo

You could pull the floor pan , and remove the shift cover to flush it out. This will give you the opportunity to inspect it.. if this isn't to much effort.. about 2 hr. Job.. if you don't have a PTO tower bolted to the floor pan..

I would be honored.. But I have a full time job now. So your turn around time is important.. P.M. me with your phone number, and I will call you by the weekend.. 🍻

Onyx... Are you translating. or asking?? if I remember correct... they are hub/ rotor assemblies.. Good luck finding them..

Dammit !!! I wished I would have thought about heating my floor before pouring it.. My shop is only 22'x25'.. High ceiling.. I would rather have heated the floor, and let the heat rise.. 🤔

My new concern is that the stops have been removed from behind the wheels.. something is gonna break on the job site.. please correct me if I'm wrong.. I always thought the stops were there to help relieve stress from the steering gear when the wheels are turned all the way. Otherwise, tight turns could pull the inner wheel out too much..

Why did you turn them IN? If you are trying to tighten the steering radius, you turn them out, but not the the edge of the hole, you leave at least a 1/8" recess..

My first wife went home at 46.. ALS, took 9 months to take her life.. It is a terrible thing to witness, She was very strong to the end..

I was just thinking about "Skippy Mack" I know that her and her family were new here, but there were a lot of posts of them building the B-Model.. It was kinda' nice to see the family workin' on their truck.. jojo

You sure can cook up some nice breast's.. Luv it..!!

Hey Jeff M... Any chance Maietta construction has any more of their late 70's DM's?? I drove them from 1999-2000.. and Shaw Bros, had a bunch of RD's.. and there was a concrete co. in Westbrook, that had blue/green colored DM's.. I forgot their name... Les,,, something.. anyway... I always wonder about the old trucks I used to drive, and re-build, when I lived there and worked at Maine Mack, from 2000-late 2005.. Jojo

When you had the thermostat out, did you take the belts off, and run the engine to see if bubbles are present? you can also bypass the air compressor coolant lines in order to rule out a failed compressor head. If you do this and bubbles are present, I would say bad head gasket(s).. If the bubbles go away, hook the compressor lines back up and check for bubbles again.. If bubble show up, then the air compressor is bad.. jojo

I was wondering about trying to suppress this heat.. I understand what Glenn posted and I agree.. Can you retard the timing a couple degrees? I also thought about the alcohol/water injection I had on my '69 Camaro.. would that help turn the heat down ? It's been a long time for me, so there is a chance I forgot a detail or two.. But, I think about a timing adjustment first.. If I were an engine,,,, I would rather be wimpy, over being burned up.. jojo

If you need info on essential tools, like a cam shoe, lifter sticks, H-Ring installer, and so-on.. Please let us know.. at least 5 of us will help you jojo