Joey Mack

seems like there was a change 30 years later... a 612 was a single drive axle and a 613 was tandem.. Man I have a lot more to learn... Luv it.. Jojo

Forgive me... but.. yes the crank is huge in size, but I didnt see any HUGE issues. Am I correct? looks good to me.. I love this thread... Jojo

I do paint parts when the are off the engine. As you can see my head bolts are not painted yet. Then I go back and do touch ups.. Yes it is very hard to get a good cover if paint when it's in chassis.. in my case, since I was building engines in working trucks, I do the best I can.. yes it only lasts about 3 years or so. It does help to spot any leaks that may pop up. If I was doing one for a restoration, I would not even attempt to paint it..

I always paint my engine build's. most are in the chassis. as Mech stated, if not for a restoration, and just for a clean looking engine, it can be done in chassis. I prefer it to be out, but that cant always happen.

Bob White,, the 2 tone '76 C-10 is new to me.. I just bought it for $3500.00... The factory 454 has a bad knock in it.. I couldnt pass it up.. yep, another project added to my mile long list... oh well...... Jojo

Yes sir,, That one is home made.. it was born a '77 C-20, 350/TH-350.. I had a '78 C-30 chassis, and made a swap, then I pulled the auto pedals out and put 3 pedals back in, and a granny gear saginaw.. It is a tough old truck.. His name is 'Old Blue'.. The GT emblem means 'Great truck'.. He aint pretty, but I drive it almost every day.. and with headers, a 400 cam, 4 Bbl Edelbrock carb, and hi rise intake, breathing out of dual, flow master dual chamber mufflers, it sounds great.. I actually get compliments and offers to buy it.. CRAZY... Jojo

You Crazy Mo-Fo !! I love it... jojo

I am a PAI believer... Iv'e posted a few times about engines I built as far back as 5 years, still running good with no issues..

I like Chevy truck's too.. I would love a '69 with a 427.. Thats my birthday.. 4/27/69..

he will need 2 drive shafts.. the 310 is a foot shorter..

so how about that tranny question?/? you rekon he got his answer?

my wife just hate's me.. youre lucky...

Mech,,, if you were in the big seat, you would slap yourself in the forehead... its easy..

mech.. It is a 300 series Mack transmission. It came at around 2000, I could be off a year or 2.. It looks like a 200 series tranny from the outside to some extent.. The reverse idlers are in the back box instead of in the main box.. it has a similar shift pattern to an 8LL, however.. there is a yellow button on the left side of the stick to select forward or reverse.. It is actually a decent set-up.. You can still grab 4 or 5 gears in reverse.. When you are driving in lower gears on the job site, you can literally leave the stick in a low forward gear , stop,, clutch in,, flip the button,, and now you re in reverse... and you can back up without moving the stick.. heck, there is probably a bunch of way's to use this tranny...

Yes You Are!!!... Totaly Awesome Too.. bring it Mech.. I don't think anyone gets pissed about it...

Keep it coming Craig......... it's about the truck...

Scott, hang on for a few more opinion's..

I beleive Craig did it.... it's his post... Hell.... I do it too.. Luv it...

are you looking for REPTO's??? or the one's that mount to the lower countershaft on a Mack tranny.? just curious... jojo

Ok... this my opinion as a so-so driver of both, and a mechanic.. The 12 spd. is one of my favorites, you can split the gears how you want and you have multi spd. PTO options, and multi spd. reverse.. and the low range's are great.. Now the 310 MLR.. it has multi speed reverse and you can shift it like an 8LL pattern. I dont know about a neutralizer for multi speed PTO's.. I don't remember.. The 310MLR, is still around and parts are readily available. It IS an expensive tranny to fix, but it IS a great tranny.. typically the synchro goes bad if the air system on the tranny is not maintained.. ie: lubed and new o-ring kits periodically, and a shuttle valve here and there.. OK, so there is my take... Let's see what the Dog Pound say's... Jojo

the difference between the drive axles is.. The one with the cone shape is a cap, and the axle is a seperate shaft, and there may still be a seal in the center of the hub to keep oil on the inner bearing and grease on the outer bearing. I have removed that seal and made the whole hub an oil bath type.. The other flat axle cap is a flange and the axle shaft and cap are one piece.. Both seal with good quality RTV, when put back together.. Jojo

both are greased..

yep.....

Yes sir. So you have the single nut with 2 allen screws and a notch in it, and a lock ring behind it? So basically,,,,, tighten the nut down with about 200+ lbft of torque, ( bearing pre-load) then back it off and put 50+ lbft back on it.. rotate the wheel hub and feel it.. it should have a smooth roll but not tight.. the notch is a sight.. line it up to a space in the lock ring and the 2 set screws will be lined up with a space on each one.. That keeps you aimed right.. I dont have any pictures.. It's not that hard... I like them better than the 3 piece Mack set up.. jojo

Back in the 80's when I lived in Gray, Maine, we used to listen to him every Sunday and Ray Terri and 'The Big Deal'.. On WPOR 101.9 country station Paul always made sense. jojo