Joey Mack

Yes Mecho, It is a 115 A/C lincoln,, SP 135.. it is 22 years old.. It can accept a gas bottle, I just dont have one.. $175.00 to get a filled bottle.. Its an OK welder, but for some reason the wire feed sucks.. It will feed good and do a good job at times, and then, as you can see in the picture, some of welds look like a row of single beads.. That is what happens when the wire doesnt feed good.. I was laying on my side trying to weld this, but I couldnt see my bead as I welded.. I ended up taking my helmet off to get closer, and closing my eyes when i struck an arc. My face was sunburned the next day .. So,back to the question.. If you are working with 3/16" and thinner, I think you will like it. However, the flux core wire splatters a lot. I have done quite a bit of body panel repairs with it and they came out pretty good for a self taught glue gun operator

That great too. Yes to Yota parts,, there are a couple shops around here that love to modify them.. In my case, its a daily driver and gets descent mileage, compared to all of my other trucks.. I only have a small amount invested.. basically wire for the welder, and I did buy a small LED spot light for $35.00.. So all in.. I have a bout $50.00 invested.. the metal was free, came from a job site scrap pile.. Oh yeah, I did use up (1) 4 1/2" grinder wheel.. jojo

Thats awesome FJH, Yeah, i dont have any ford frames, I still kick myself for not buying a new frame years ago, when I was making good money. They were just over $2300,00.. Now they are ove $3,000.00.. Maybe I will find a Yota with crash damage or blown engine for a cheap price and do a swap.. I have had this truck for 22 years and I'm not ready to feed it to the crusher..

Yeah, I'm no fan of those trucks with centrifugal clutches.. hard to hold the RPM's at 900 with my foot while trying to creep into the shop, or up on big truck ramps.. I remember many years ago, having to transport Macks that had an Eaton auto shift tranny, with a clutch pedal.. that was weird. I remember stalling them a few times.. I was confused by not have to move a shifter..

Yes MACKS, it is bad.. many years of winter driving in Maine, really sped up the cancer.. I have fixed other spots 2 times, this is #3.. I put pictures back up so you can see what I have going on.. It was really hard to get a good weld on it, given the tight area and my welder is small, and gasless... Its not pretty, but she doesnt make cracking noises when driving anymore..

Thanks Bud... The road salt in Maine really gave this frame hell..

Bob, I just went through this with my '48 Int. KB-7... I shelled out $375.00 for 2 rear wheel cyl's.. Yes i do have brakes now, but ,,,, really???? I get it buddy.... jojo

One common repair I have made it to clean the main eyelets on the bolt that is on the engine block in front of the starter.. You need a 15/16" wrench. remove it, (if it's not tight It is a problem) clean the block, bolt, eyelets, and if there are star washers, throw them in the trash.. scrape off any heat shrink glue that has oozed out onto the eyelets.. then put it back together nice and tight.. The 2 thin eyelets are for the engine wire harness, if they dont ground good, you WILL have issues like yours.. jojo

Oh Hell... Check all the grounds!! I have posted this procedure many times.. Look up a 9-2 code and follow the flow chart.. It takes an hour or 2 but it needs to be done... and you dont need to be a master mechanic. just on a 'mission'.. simple tools to do this, as well.. jojo

A lot of guys dont replace it and it will affect the turbo performance.. Yes there can be several issues to cause this. The pipe you speak of is around $1200.00, There is a check valve at the intake manifold end of that pipe that can get sooted up and act foolish.. You can un screw it and clean and inspect it. and put it back in if it is not damaged.. I'm trying to keep you from spending thousands on hard parts that dont fail very often.. You can also lube the VGT actuator at the lever on the turbo. We used to take the pin out and buff the pin lube it before putting it back in.. Another thing I have repaired, was a bad or incorrect boost sensor.. I hope the mechanic is not a new age laptop crazy guy, and rather an actual Mechanic.. Can he test drive the truck?? jojo

Well here I go again.. replace the little filter for the VGT actuator, then re-test

Whoooo Slow down there Cowboy... What are these "Engine Brakes" you speak of TJC.. I have never heard of such word's...... 🤫

Either way Bob... I love you man...

Yes you do Bob!! it adjusts the brakes on your DM..... You always make me laugh,,,,, in a good way,,,,, jojo

Coddled life.. That is correct !! Great way to say it Bob.. jojo

Bob. it not 9/16" anymore, and it was 7/16", but now it's disc brakes, and I think it's 10mm... or maybe it's just........ " I don't Know Why It Wont Stop Good" jojo

By the Way..... I think we just 'Sidetracked' this thread..... Thank's Bob !!!

Yes sir, TJC.. I agree !! I am not a long term driver, just 5+ years.. But as a mechanic who Gave a Damn!! I made sure the trucks were safe and legal, and running good.. I have 'Served' some of these demanding newbies.. meanwhile the 60- 70 year old driver's were just 'Chilled'.. They new I was going to hook 'em up, and they would drive the crappiest spare truck to keep makin money.. I have seen male princess's just clock out rather than drive an older truck.. How they got away with it,,, I dont know.. jojo

Amen ! Bob... jojo

In my experience Bob.. When Guy's like you and my Wife, say that they welcome the automated tranny's, I give them respect.. My concern is how weak todays drivers are.. Not their fault, it's the feminine trucks they are taught and forced to drive... Driving a manual truck is a SKILL, and it allows the driver to learn the truck and feel how it goes over the road.. To me that is very important.. Just my 2 cent's.. Oh crap, I'm running out of pennie's.. be right back... Jojo

You Go!! RowdyReble.. Put their ''NUT'S" back where they belong !! jojo

Well, I got my truck back together.. My work is not pretty.. If I had a lift, new metal, and better welders, I could have done a bit better.. I had a bunch of scrap steel on my rack and used what I had.. Kinda low budget work here.. But!! when I test drove it I took it on the bumpyest road near me, and there was not one single creeking sound or cracking sound like it used to do.. My guess is it will last at least 5 more years. maybe by them I will find a good frame, and just swap it out.. I was reluctant to post pics because my work looks crappy. on the otherhand, this is my reality... 🤣

Terry,, I figured that was the idea.. Mp's are pretty good about not consuming oil. Thats also why I posted about the E-6+E-7.. Im glad to know I'm on the same page as you sir.. Well, it's a nice day here, today, and I need to finish the frame repair on my Yota.. Then update it in 'Shop Talk" Cya jojo P.S. I hope he finds a simple reason for his oil usage...

Terry, are you asking me if a quart a week is a lot? I say yes if it is, as well serviced as stated, and if it is, well serviced this issue should have been seen as it progressed, and not an ' all of a sudden'.. Of course, I do not know who is driving and how he/she is driving.. if this was an E-6 or E-7, with real work and age in it's history,, no sweat,,keep squirting oil, til you need to do more to fix it.. but a 4 year old MP-7 with 190k??? dunno.. How many hours? and does it idle at 650 it's whole life?... jojo

Yeah that's why I posted a VIN for you from an RD. I was hoping it would have helped.. Sorry bud..