Joey Mack

The frames for the Tacomas were know for this issue.. Unfortuneatly, I didnt learn about the re-call till 2 years after it expired.. I bought this truck in March of 2001.. It took me through hell-ashous snowstorms in Maine til I moved to N.C. in 2005.. The road salt stayed inside the boxed frame. It rotted from the inside-out... I read that the frames were made in Japan, and were not coated with a protectant for long term storage. So when they were shipped to the U.S. they sat, and the cancer started in storage until the trucks were assembled.. Anyway, I will just keep patching it.. A new frame is around $3,000.00.. My City Job paycheck cant afford it, ..

I have a new project... I have been putting it off for a while now, but it has to get done.. My awesome '97 Tacoma has cancer for the 3rd. time.. I'm trying to keep it together until I can find a donor frame to do a swap.. It has only 190,000 miles, 5spd. 4WD.. Its been a great truck..

are you having issues building air? if so, check for air leaks, if you post the year and model of the truck we can give you insight on specific issues.. also, at around 1200 rpm, air pressure should take no more than 45 seconds to build from 85-100 PSI.. jojo

Paul,, I noticed that there are pictures of some of my trucks below my username, on my posts.. I was just curious how they got there.. No biggie, just curious.. jojo

when you assemble the new synchro pack, pay close attention to the position of the bascket.. the letter 'R' is stamped into the studs in the basket, that is to the 'rear'.. also, dont forget the snapring inside the center of the synchro. for some reason I have seen guys forget that and it will only shift once,,,, then its comes back apart.. also, pay attention to disc postion.. the friction discs and the pressure plates.. I have the service manual for this tranny, so if you need a picture, I can post it.. jojo

there shouldnt be any contact with the cam.. But i bet you know that.. can you put it back in to see how much clearence there is?

no, the lines are above the fuel level.. if you let them drop below the level, then yes a syphoning will happen.. they should be too stiff to drop on their own..

its under the sleeper, follow the fuel tank lines to the center of the truck, they join at the valve.. 2 for the suck side and 2 for the return side.

How'bout I just help you... park the truck on level ground.... keep air pressure bove 90 psi by running it or shop air.... set 2 wheel chocks at a steer tire, 6 inches from the tire, both front and rear of the tire... ( this allows the truck to move for the adjustment) ... then, release the brakes, and let the truck settle..... then dump the suspension all the way... let it rest a minute..... then raise the suspension, till it stops and let it rest.... Leave the park brakes released.. then you measure from the bottom of the frame rail to the bottom of the 'Z Spring' where it sits on the axle or pad.. You take the measurement on the axle that has the leveling valve on it. The correct range is 5 1/4" +/- 1/8"... To make the adjustment you can move the control rod by loosening the clamps and sliding the rod up or down.. If you have a 2003ish and later, there is a slot in the frame rail for a big screwdriver.. you will loosen the pinch bolt there, and rotate the slot with the screw driver to raise or lower the truck.. when you set it, go back to the beginning and check it again.. jojo

What you describe is typically the synchro.. who is doing the repair? An 'in-Chassis' repair is doable, however several essential tools are needed, as well as experience.. I'm not trying to be a jerk, I just have seen many guys who work on other brands, try to do MACK component repairs, and find out they are in over their head.. with respect, Jojo

Are you familiar with how to adjust the ride height, with brakes released and front wheels chocked at a distance?

ok.. good enough,, give me a minute..

since when does Mack need more than the last '6' of the VIN.. Im sorry I dont have the whole vin to re-post.. jojo

do you know the name or series of the suspension?

its behind and above the pedals.. there should be a few of them, I cant remember which one,

I assume you have air ride and want to know the correct ride hieght? do you have AL 405 susp.?

I have no idea how the pictures of some of my trucks made it into my posts.. How do I delete them, and put one that I would rather have on there ??

Uhhh, dont know how my truck pictures got there.. 🤔

Dammit Man !!! 🧠 Power..... 🍻

Hmmm 🤔

When you locate the acc. Relay, you can switch it with the headlight relay. If I remember right, it is the same style. Then you can road test to see if the issue is still there.. I'm glad that there was an improvement.. another thing we have done before was to make a short ground strap, and attach it the the EECU housing under a mounting nut, then run it to the engine block..

Did you happen to check the accessory relay in the cab fuse panel?

On the ground bolt in the engine block, is 2 thin eyelets. They are for the engine harness. Did you take that all apart and clean each eyelet?

Has the boost sensor been replaced? If so, was the correct part number installed? Also, have you replaced the little air filter for the VGT actuator?

Yes to the valve under the cab. The hard plastic lines can develope an air leak. The crimp can loosen.. also, check the tank vent tubes and clean fuel caps if they are vented.. The dual suck dual return set up is crap.. I think freightliner had a better setup and they had shut off valves.. jojo