Joey Mack

I get it... I took a stuck END 673 apart and it took hours and a ton of patience.. I worked slow and deliberate, Just Like a Mack Engine... I also had to be carefull with 2 John Deere 3179's for the same issue... On all of those, I had the heads off, but it took a lot of PB Blaster and very slow 'working back and forth' to get them to move then a slow twist to pull them out.. Be patient, and good luck... jojo

Another part of this for me, with many machines i have seen, and seen go to rust or the crusher....... This 'IH KB-7'.... was just sitting outside with a rotten tarp over it and NO windows in it... I just had to rescue it... Like I said, I have not seen a truck like mine around here. I am sure they exist, but i have been to quite a few truck show's in recent years and a couple new ones for me this year and,, No IH KB's.. Who know's, maybe I take it to a show, and I may be 'The Cool Kid on the Block' I just love this stuff and old iron no matter what it is.... Jojo

I have some knowledge about "What is it Worth"? I bought a truck 2 years ago, for 7K.. I know I paid a lot for it, but I wanted it, and I have never seen one around here. I do the repairs myself, and that helps save money. I have been told I paid too much, But.... I wanted this truck... and I basically built a Mack engine for the guys company and just billed 6K of it for the engine work and added 1K out of my 'Piggy Bank'.. anyway, I am proud to own it... I have posted it before... Jojo

I have been watching this thread for a while... I understand where you are at, at this point, and I'm happy for you.. 🍻

Oil analasys by far is best,. Maybe cut and oil filter open and remove some element to inspect for metal.. do these while waiting for the results of the analysts. Personally, I like to see what I can find, while waiting, especially when I have a short amount of time, and a boss/ customer looking at me for answers NOW.. :).

See..... I told you... 😉

Hell,,,, Take the back off the dryer and pull the dollar bill's that made it from your pants to behind the drum... Years ago I used to work at an appliance store that did repairs.. coins and bills were common.... mostly coins.. jojo

Oil analasys, yes it will. You can also do a 'Halo test' on a piece of clean cardboard from a parts box, the brown stuff. The aux shaft, is behind the steering pump. It goes all the way to the air compressor. It is driven by the cam gear and it runs, the steering pump, oil pump and air comp. ITS A BUSY GUY..... To remove it, you have to pull the steering pump off to get the nut off, then pull the air compressor off to slide it out. The oil pump stays in... Jojo

Here's another one of my Crazy thought's.... . These D'Bag's are pushing electric cars so that we don't venture too far in America.. They are trying to narrow our radius of travel, and make it look fashionable.. .. call me crazy..... Please?? Jojo

I don't know, Bud... I dont know why you have crappy oil pressure, other than poor workmanship... I'm really sorry... was the oil filter pad assembly removed during the re-build? the base gasket is crucial.. I'm grabbin' at straws.. jojo

ok... Not good..... Is the oil pump new? if the pressure regulator piston is gauged really bad it will reduce oil pressure. A broken spring is rare but possible.. I have had PAI oil pumps deliver around 10-PSI less pressure but still in range.. Remind us, please... did you roll rods and mains? jojo

I wish I had one of those, back when I was doing road service work.. Heck, I never even thought to look into buying one... $88.00 What a deal!! jojo

What I mean is that, the truck pressure sensor goes through the EECM.. but a hand held gauge is actual.. if the hand held gauge is reading a different pressure, hopefully higher, then there may be an issue with the trucks sensor.

I don't remember if you had put a gauge on the oil gallery to compare it to the EECU reading..? Jojo

were you able to fix the issue? and have brake lights working again? jojo

there is no gasket, just shims and rtv... the smaller seal housing directly behind the yoke may have a gasket or o-ring, but if it is not leaking, then there is no need to remove the yoke... dont go heavy with rtv, you dont want to change the bearing preload.. jojo

Looks like the input housing is loose. The bolts are 16mm or 5/8 12 point.. you can pull it out as a unit, clean the steel shims, Be careful, they will cut you... Then lightly apply Mack Gray RTV to the shims and re- install it.. I believe the bolt torque is 175 lbft.. when you handle the shims, pay attention to the oil gallery holes in the shims.. make sure you don't cover the holes, by accidently rotating a shim in correctly.

Try this company on the web. HDP, 888-919-pros, Tune up kit P/N: 4559-18678... Hopefully they have what you need in stock..

My guess is the Brake series is Jacobs 680? What issues are you having?

I have 2 here now, one that is burned up... yes.. You are right... i have 2 harness's to repair... I bet I make 1 out of 2... A good solder iron and heatshrink can make a $1200.00 harness new 'enough' to use again, and beat the Volvo B.S.. jojo

I have posted my opinion a few times... Why???? because a harness is not in stock, and it is over a thousand dollars... If you take the time to ohm it or just plain remove it and string it up in your shop or a room in your house if you have too.. and check every wire related to the fault codes or just every wire.. yes it is tedious and takes hours... but it doesnt cost thounsands of dollars... buy a cheap ass dvom from harbor frieght, and you can buy good wire and terminals and heat shrink at NAPA, and make pro repairs.. and as far as 'pin tension' in the plugs... you can improve the connections with a cheap ass, pick set.. from harbor freight.. .. jojo

Are you able to test your harness and repair the faults that you find within the harness? I have taken wire harness's and ohm'd wire's end to end and a physical inspection of integrity, on the plug ends and the tightness and tension of the terminal's.. and made repair's. Since it is an '04 , the wires are all white and have the path printed on them, so you can pick a plug end, and write down the wire code, and follow it to its end and use the code flow chart to find an issue within the circuit. Lot's of word's here but if you think about it... it's not really complicated... jojo

The brake light pressure switch on an RD, is on the fire wall under the hood.. in the center.. Beware, it is hot all the time regardless of ignition position.. Jojo

thank you for posting the solution.... It will help someone else with the same issue... jojo