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Joey Mack

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Joey Mack

  1. Ok... I think I get it... 🤔
  2. These were the gasket kits i used on the ENDT 673. All gaskets included but the head gaskets. Main seals were in bags and may have been put in the box by my customer. Looks like this kit would have been right for you. What gasket set numbers did the Mack guy provide?
  3. Nice. You are very good at what you do. Of course the drag car work you do is certainly spot on for the skills needed fornthis 300 build. I wish I had machine shop knowledge like you do... I'd be dangerous... 🍻
  4. Nice, do you intend on buffing the sides of the dogs, to reduce drag. ? It really looks nice and clean, im not knit pickin'.....
  5. Paul..... We have people who make the rules that have never used the tools... just like those that make our truck driving rules.... they have never done the job... thats my silly 2 cents worth..
  6. I still have an old set of reams for those in my tool shed.
  7. It was probably for the PTO nuetral switch just like fjh said.
  8. I would che k pin fitment after bushing install, and the buff or ream accordingly. The older thick brass bushings were reamed, todays bushings got a little kiss with a flapper wheel on the edges and the any sings of friction inside the bushhing when fitting the pin would also get a little kiss. Ever so gently..
  9. Run it....
  10. O. D. i did the same thing. The new cans in my mind are more dangerous that the older plastic cans. Id spill more gas trying to get them to pour. I even did a road call for a customer who got the safety nozzle stuck in his car filler neck. He pulled the can out hard and the stopper broke off and blocked the filler pipe.
  11. My wife and I are trying to eat better. She loves my stir fry meals. here is one of my basic ones. She likes it over angle hair, I like curry infused brown rice... Hows that for fancy words??
  12. dis regard the Keyser question, I see you posted a bronze bushing
  13. ok.. so its the bushing and not the ''pins'' as you stated. I was confused. is it the upper bushing, or the lower one coming up to the axle beam? did you check fitment of the bushing in to the knuckle bore? That bushing should have had to be pressed in or driven in with a proper bushing driver. Are you using a Keyser kit with the coiled type of bushings?
  14. Im not sure what 'pins' you describe. The tapered king pin set up is excelent. Did you seat the king pin up into axle beam with a sledge and a jack on the bottom of the pin ? You also need to pre lube the thrust bearing and you use the lower nut to set the bearing. The front ends weight is on the thrust bearing.
  15. Oh Hell... i wish i had posted the engine kit numbers for you months ago...
  16. Yes the nylon is a drift for the seal and goes in your toolbox for next time..
  17. I see the wear ring is in its own bag. Thats a first for me. Im sorry, but I have to ask.... isnt there 2 rear seal part numbers? One for the seal alone, and a different seal for use of the wear ring? I know you have been working hard on this and have gotten info from many directions, and a parts counter that doesnt know what you have, I recall 2 different seals due to the thickness of the wear ring. Trying to not be a pest here... Jojo
  18. 🍻
  19. Good points at the end. Too bad you cant buy a new input shaft.... feeling safe is tops..
  20. Ok. So you did strip the input shaft cover inside an out. Too bad it wont hold. Im curious about your idea to weld it and turn it back down. Good luck....
  21. Interesting... I never saw the adjustment gap related to the pressure plate, only between the throwout bearing and the clutch brake.... Well... I just learned something.
  22. 🤔... ok. Well now im curious fjh... interesting ...
  23. But what would stop the trans from spinning so he can go from nuetral to 'in gear' when stopped, without grinding ?
  24. The clutch brake would make up the excess gap... at least he can add a 2 peice clutch brake and get it dialed in. And stop the grinding to get it in gear.
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