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Joey Mack

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Everything posted by Joey Mack

  1. Well I made a little more progress on my scrap metal cooker/smoker... Not quite a pretty thing but it is solid. I just have to build a hot fire in it to clean it out, then paint all but the lid with some stove paint.. and I guess I could try to clean the lid.. I had a grill fire a while back, because I dont scrub my grill, just scrape the grates..
  2. if you put grease on the tap it helps to collect the millings.. not perfect but better than nothing.. and like 'FJH' says... valves closed.. which will be the case, as the rocker shaft will be off the engine during this repair.. Jojo
  3. ok.. well stick around and wait for the guys that still work on these to help guide you.. jojo
  4. yes with seal housing removed.. yes to seal installed into the housing.. RTV on the seal is not recommended due to the red or green sealant coating on the seal, however..... you can use your professional judgment on that... also,,,, since you ar removing the seal housing.. I have also tapped on the wear ring with a small hammer to make a flat spot on the wear ring, and this will loosen the ring enough to pull it off with a pick tool.. just hit the ring and not the crank.. seal housing has a gasket.. Mack Gray RTV is your friend... jojo
  5. Any time sir... There is a bunch of us that will offer help. jojo
  6. leaving it in just helps from spilling a bunch of coolant.. no biggie.... it should run at 185.. YOUR WELCOME..
  7. so it stays running if you pump the primer?? the tandem pumps on them are not something I like.. There is a drive coupler between the fuel and steering pump that is joined by a small round slotted coupler... it is a piece of junk. and when they wear, the drive can cut a hole onto the coupler and just spin.. They should have used a 'lovejoy' coupler like a Series 60 12.7 has........ seperating the tandem pump is a bit of a job.. are you familiar with the setup? jojo
  8. Yes Sir !! it works everytime.. no need to drain it, just open it..
  9. Hi Guy's.. From time to time I see post's about re-setting the dipswitches on the back of a speedometer.. I'm posting this service bulletin with the hopes that they can look for the bulletin in E-Media.. If not, P.M. me and I will try to help.. Jojo
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  10. if you were to drill out the block for bigger bolts, you will also need to drill out the EUP's.. I think that would give more problems in the future, especially if you have to warranty an EUP.. And I can see the ears breaking off the EUP when you try to torque it down passed 60 lbft.. Maybe just check bolt torque here and there, and replace them annually if you really have a concern.. Another thing that helps, is to oil the bolts, and wipe them off so there is not enough to hydraulic lock them in the hole, only for them to relax and become loose.. jojo
  11. It wouldnt hurt to apply a thin bead of RTV to the inside of the wear ring, then just wipe off the excess after its installed.. You got this..
  12. The original heat shields should be enough.. They also help keep 'crud' from building up on the EUP's and wires, which will hold heat in.. I am curious what ideas get posted.. Jojo
  13. If you want to, you can use a 3/8" extension on a breaker bar, and remove the plug on the top of the front water manifold behind the thermostat housing. As you unscrew it and it gets loose you may hear air come out.. leave the plug in just a bit, then when coolant comes out ,, tighten it up.. For years now, when ever I fill an E-7/E-Tech, I always remove that plug.. It saves me time and it does very well at bleeding the air.. Jojo
  14. In addition to Onyx's post's.. do you have a boost leak where the turbo pipe and/or the C.A.C. pipes mate up? there are o-rings there that can leak.. Good luck, Onyx is pretty smart about the MP's.. jojo
  15. There should have been a core charge..
  16. Oh Hell.... can you post some pics? You can use a coolant system pressure tester to see the leaks... you may have to drain the oil and leave the plug out while pressure testing to see if coolant pours out... Sorry Bud.... jojo
  17. It's true.. I have repaired 5+6 many times.. I recommend using new bolts. They are metric grade 10.9.. the final torque is 60 lbft.. I believe that was posted already.. take the bolts down evenly til snug, then 30ftlb on each then final torque.. Before you do any of this, get new o-ring kits, and use 320ish emery cloth to clean the chamfer at the top of the EUP bore. so the (pre-lubed) o-ring doesn't get cut going in... jojo
  18. Yes sir TJC.. I may not even need to cut a door, maybe just some air holes with homemade dampers to control air flow.. My grill is smaller than the top opening, so I may just set it to the front, leaving the back open to drop wood into.. then to clean it out, just lift the grill off and shovel out the ashes..
  19. I bet you dont have the diagram in the slot inside the fuse panel.. I would just check each fuse in the panel behind the door.. You can use a DVOM, set to ohms to check each fuse without pulling them out.. If one reads 'OL' replace it.. then go outside to the box under the center of the windshield and do the same.. Should only take 15 minutes.. jojo
  20. Thats great.. I just acquired this 1/4" thick 2'x2'x2' steel well cover from my City job.. I was thinking about using my old stainless steel grill on top of the box, and cutting a door into the box and putting hinges and a latch on it so i can cook with wood or do some smoking.. What do you think?? opinions??
  21. can you make a flat plate with a few holes in it and evenly take it up with bolts to push the wear ring on til its flush, then use the flywheel to recess the wear ring.. I beleive the flywheel fits over the crank hub just a bit around 1/32nd " .. anyone else ever done that? I have on an E-7 in a pinch..
  22. Looks like a wear ring to me.. they are soft, so simple careful methods can remove it.. Don't tell anybody..... But I have used a very sharp wood chisel to cut into it before, once it loosens up you can use a needle nose to pull it off..
  23. Thread size is 10mmx1.50...
  24. Another thing I think I see in the pics... Looks like the right rear air bag may have rotated at the top which can exaggerate the appearance of movement.. the axle is still wrong, but the air bag makes it look worse.. Look at the picture of the rear of the truck.. jojo
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