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Joey Mack

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Joey Mack

  1. ok... first check the 2 wires going to the EUP for chaffing... are you having low power issues? the Mack code is 8-6.. so what tool are you reading it with? Do you know that when the lightning bolt is on, you can flash the codes with the cruise control buttons? jojo
  2. Lets see how we can tie this one to our KING.. The prisons here in central N.C. are putting Narcan, in the vending machines for drug overdoses... Really???? I already have a headache and 20 question's.. But I literaly have tremendous back pain and my left knee is about to fold over... i cant get affordable care for either issue.. So I just keep working.. I am not looking for a free ride,, just want to get fixed so I can finish the last 15+ years at work.. without having to buy a wheel chair... just sayin'... where the hell is the concern for those of us who are in the same boat as I am?? jojo
  3. No Dog's allowed???? so no Mack's??
  4. the fuel system is easy... you can get what you need here when you post questions.. your engine is an ASET-I,, basically an E-Tech with a few tweeks.. as far as schematics's... yes, good to have, but if you have a V-MacIII book,,, and a skill set for elec diag.. you can fix all of it... V-MACIII book #8-211....(there are new issues) E-TECH #Engine 5-106... jojo
  5. I have never done it to a Mack.. On my svc. truck, 2002 Isuzu NPR.. I removed the egr valve and cut a piece of sheet metal, punched bolt holes, put it in between.. then plugged the vac. line.. catch my drift??? jojo
  6. You are a 'TRIP' BOB.... Luv U Man... jojo
  7. I dont know of 'One' book that covers it all.. So.... I assume you want engine/ tranny/ driveline/ rears/ elec. schematics? What else? I have many REAL books for your truck... I hope you have a manual tranny, which would be a 300 series.. I have all of them too.. What I dont have is extra E-Tech/ ASET books.... jojo
  8. It's good of you to show respect for your truck.. It is also good to hear that one of these Volvo's with Mack badges is serving you well.. I am quite sure the Manual tranny has a lot to do with your satisfaction with the truck.. I get upset because Mack is an American Name that goes along with the industrial growth of our Great Country, since 1903... It is every bit of a 'War Hero' as is the men and women that put it ALL on the line for us.. Volvo just lined the Mack up on the wall, and yelled, FIRE!! Keep up the good work Rubber Duck.. God bless you... jojo
  9. I assume you are watching the engine temp gauge...? jojo
  10. turn the A/C off and see if it still does it... Keep in touch, and welcome aboard!!! jojo
  11. R.E.D. I hear ya... I agree with you.. as long as PAI and others keep making good quality parts, and guys with the knowledge to fix them still exist, you should be good for a while.. I have a lot to learn, but I do hope to be a Mack Doctor some day.. jojo
  12. yes they all have their issues,, I guess, to me broken crankshafts, baffle me... jojo
  13. zero movement on a Mack rear end yoke.. jojo
  14. I just talked to a guy today, who own's a 2016 T-880, CX 15 cummins.. at 275,000. miles the crank broke. it was a warranty repair,, But WHY?? All that went through my mind was,,, E-6/E-7/even E-Tech.... + 12.7 Series 60, 3406 Cat. A Million Mile's,,,, no sweat... $200k trucks, and no longevity built in.. anyway,, jojo
  15. Havent seen you post lately,,,     anyway......    Happy Birthday!!   jojo

  16. I'm a self employed 'White Man' (Sole Proprietor) I aint got sh!t.... Its better for me to pay as I go,, I'm greatfull for 'Pro Med' $120.00/ walk in,, Wal-mart for cheap scripts... Of course, when I use these services.... I'm paying for it,,,,, but I wait in-line behind Mexicans that dont speak english.... I wonder what their cost is???? F.J.B.
  17. assume only that blinders were worn when the work was done.. On the back of the rear end housing is a 5/8" square plug... that is where you check and fill the level........ When the carrier is replaced, you fill the power divider first, (Front rear only) then the side cover (top reduction) then the 'bowl' rear plug... fill til they spill.. the rear rear has only 2 fill spots... the side cover first then the rear plug.... jojo
  18. Jesus Christ... good luck ,,, jojo
  19. how about taking it apart carefully, and cleaning the dust out of it, and inspect the soldered connections on all of the resistors and capacitors and diodes, and such, and if any look brown to black, re- solder them in place... I have a silly little rechargeable soldering tool that i got from amazon for $40 bucks.. also check the plug ends for loose connection's, and make sure there arent any broken pins in the sockets on the back of the circuit board.. you may just fix it and save $1200.00.... what do ya think?? jojo
  20. dammit bud,,, welcome to Volvo's world.. I have been telling my customers to save all of the old hard to find parts that they pull.. I have a few but no where near what I want to have... .. as far as the cluster,,,, what is the issue? have you taken it apart to see the issue? jojo
  21. i made one out of a 1/4 fender mounting bar.. I burnt a hole in the middle for 5/8" threaded rod, I had a few cut offs from brake chambers to use as the jack screw and didnt care if it got messed up... i use the old u-joint straps to hold the bar in place... and then,,,, 'git'r done'.... a, 3lb hammer does help to get it to break loose.. just like Onyx said... I know all to well about the rust up north.. My oxy/acet. bill down here is very low.... jojo
  22. How about pre filling the oil filter, fill the engine til its in the range, count your qt's.. crank it , run 1 minute, let sit for 10 minutes and top off, keep track of what you put in.. easy breezy... jojo
  23. ok.... push up on the drive shaft, if it moves, locate the movement, loose yoke bolt is possible. pull the yoke and then the seal cover.... inspect the yoke for a groove around where the seal rides.. if it has a groove, buy a yoke, speedy sleeves are hit or miss.. replace the seal, and the gasket behind the cover. get a new yoke bolt, 3AX1803,, and torque to 500 lbft... install a new u-joint strap kit... they are cheap,,, around $10 buck's.. top off the oil, and you should be done with this issue... stay in touch.. jojo
  24. so you have a duetch connector on the back of the injection pump, and not a pull stop to shut it down?? jojo
  25. I just replaced the 'Z' springs on a CXN last week.. Repairing that suspension is easy on your back, but not so easy on your wallet... definately keep the u-bolts tight.. during a walk around, you can hit them with a hammer... if they ring out, they are tight, if they 'thud' they are loose.. just a quick way to stay on top of them ... jojo
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