Joey Mack

since its an RD, i bet it works in the dirt, and there is a mess between the CAC and the radiator, as well as a clogged radiator, that may need to be boiled. or just buy a new radiator.. did you change the water pump housing because it was cavitated? was the coolant mostly water? when you pulled the thermostat was it hard to get apart and broke when it was apart? I bet you have a viscous fan clutch,,, is it weak? here's a crazy 'Q' has some done a valve adjustment right before it ran hot? it's an E-Tech, so there isnt a whole lot of outside issues that can raise engine temp.. Pretty basic engine.. jojo

As time goes on,, we were probably ALL dumbasses. I know I was.... But.... If you have a work ethic, you become good-to-great at what you do... in todays world the issue to me is not as much with the young'ns, but with the trainer's, and/or the top dog's.. Today they hire people with NO knowledge,,,, to show them THE WAY... to me the problem is that the newbies in our field, have almost no knowledge about what they are selling.. but.... they have a job... they dont understand that they are supposed to sell parts/ or make repairs, because that customer is a business owner, and in order for him to make his business operate, he need's a quality salesman.... or mechanic.. I have seen this lack of training recently.. nowadays, it's just ,, sell/sell/sell//.... No longer is there a relationship based on Business, just sales, and then when you need HELP... Cricket's.... Just my real opinion,,, Jojo

"Among Asian buyers, China is leading the way, after its oil refiners rushed to buy ultra-cheap spot cargoes in April, taking advantage of the deep discounts at which many crude grades were being offered to China with non-existent demand elsewhere. China is expected to import around 1.1 million bpd of U.S. crude oil in July, according to Refinitiv estimates. This would be more than double the previous record of Chinese imports from the U.S. of 466,000 bpd in June 2018, just before the two biggest economies started the trade war. The high imports of U.S. crude oil in Asia are likely to continue in August until all cheap cargoes arrive, but after that, nominations seem to have dropped off, as oil prices rose. Despite the expected record imports of U.S. crude in July, China is nowhere near achieving its target for energy purchases from the United States under the Phase 1 trade deal, and with oil prices double compared to April and demand still weak in Asia, the Chinese buying spree – including of U.S. oil – may be coming to an end." By Tsvetana Paraskova for Oilprice.com........ I tried to read more, but the page is so big that my laptop would stop turning long enough for me to read the whole story.. (bpd) is Barrels per day... Jojo

Damn I wish I had the pocket book for it..... jojo

I forget if I asked.... did you check fuel pressure with a gauge before any diss assembly? The E-Tech I am currently building had 125 PSI... I used a brand new gauge.. I replaced the pressure regulator, and it was at 70PSI, but the damage was already done.. I like to know what caused the issue, one step at a time.. doing 2 or more replacements, doesnt tell me what caused the issue.. Just sayin, I do understand trying to hustle to get it fixed... (Catch 22).. sorry bud... as far as the EUP cutting loose,,, it can certainly put fuel into the crankcase if it caused the EUP to loosen, usually a broken bolt is present.. were the EUP's removed recently? and maybe not torqued down properly? I ask lots of questions.. jojo

PAI, $2700.00 with all 18 lifters and a thrust washer... ATL Diesel... $105.00 for the bushings with another thrust washer... jojo

nope, sorry... I forgot that part..

I dont blame you,,, it was pretty slack on my part.. jojo

OK.. so the one I just built is..... CXN-613/017414.... The cam # is: 454GC4271.... Volvo # 20706395.... jojo (ASET-C)

Mack Gray works good too, and it removable with a pocket screwdriver.. jojo

on the end of your cam shaft will be the Mack number.. My suggestion, is to pull the front cover and look.. jojo

Onyx, you can pull the input shaft out, then slide the sliding clutch out. look at the clutching teeth in the 5th/8th speed gear, if they are not chipped up real bad or rounded off, you slide a new sliding clutch back in, check the teeth on the input gear as well, it too is replaceable.. no it is not a perfect repair, but it is a doable one.. no special tools, just patience, and snap ring plyers, no need to pull the bell housing, just be patient sneaking the bearing cover out of it tight spot make sure you look for an oring that seals the oil slinger, there should be a spiral slinger machined into the input shaft.. jojo

so ... how does it know how to dump boost early?? is the actuator wrong or weak.? jojo

yes, RED.. I just recieved my second set of kits today.... PAI... jojo as far as to why the steel lifters failed, what I was told was that the soft brass axle for the roller gets a flat spot, then the roller stops turning and digs into the cam.. I can explain the ones where the 'case hardening' flakes off.. maybe thats from poor maintainance. jojo

Well it happened... I said that I never see the hidden plug leaking.... well the E-tech I'm building, was the one... I put the 1/4" ratchet on it and the weight of my baby ratchet was enough to turn the plug.. So I found how fuel got into this engine... jojo

I have to correct my posting.. I said that this engine did not have spring loaded pushrods.. I went back to the job site today and realized I had 2 different boxes of parts from 2 different engines.. I guess I got too busy, and my helper moved parts and I didnt pay attention.. sorry guys.. It does have spring loaded pushrods.. I start to re assemble tomorrow.. jojo

i just tossed that out there.. I always look.. the ASET-C i finished last week had a straight key.. jojo

as far as lifter's.. its just my opinion.. I really dont have a good answer.. I just like steel over ceramic, but I have seen ceramic run for a long time. the one I am currently building is 11 years old and the ceramic lifters did not fail.. truth is, with ceramic lifters, I dont like loading the cam in the block, in chassis. I would rather have it on a rotating stand so i can tip it upside down.. i think using the other VIN is a good idea.. make sure you know what cam key is used. it may be straight but ,,, be sure... white side out for the 427/460hp.. if its offset.. jojo

sounds like you are riding on the lifter yoke.. sorry bud.. well, if it gets you by for a while, keep going.. the cam kits are available from PAI.. $2000.00 + the bushing set is $105.00 with a thrust washer. if you havent looked already, just type in the mack engine type and kit you want... the last 2, I built I got parts from ATL Diesel.. but there are others that compete on price. I like free shipping.. go with steel lifters. $100.00 each... jojo

Cause everybody want's some.... How 'bout you??? jojo

so you dont have adjusting screws on the exhaust yoke/bridge? im just curious.. i have seen pinless intakes with a solid yoke, but i dont recall a solid exhaust yoke right now.. but maybe, sorry I get rusty at times,.. is the tranny an Allison? sorry for my Q's,,,, I too am trying to learn something here... no matter how many of these trucks/engines I have worked on, I always learn something... Maybe I should have already known the answer... as far as checking the H-ring.. yes you can see if it has turned, however, the slightest rotation will kill a lifter and cam. the real way to check rotation is a long process.. what you can do is use the long end of a coat hanger or a welding rod to check the depth compared to the others. there is an 1/8 " allowance. the H-rings are checked with the heads off and/or the cam out.. jojo

Hi guy's,,, So I'm doing a synchro repair in an Eaton FRO15210C.. My question is.... What is this repair worth in a shop/dealership, nowaday's.. I have done dozens of these, and my customer seem's to be sitting on his hands about price, but his truck has been in my shop for 5 week's, I did a few other big repairs as well. I have about 8 hours in the synchro job because I had to fight it every step of the way.. no biggie. the back case was cracked so that added $225.00 to the parts list, and I had to cut the yoke off. not sure there, mabey $200.00 for the yoke.. I have a rebuilder shop here that beats all prices and they have OE parts and PAI part's.. my labor will probably be around $800-$1000, including shop supplies.. the parts will be around $1300.00... so that would be $2300.00, tops for a synchro repair.. I had to replace the bearings, Hi gear and Lo gear due to chipped teeth.. which is normal.. and re-ringed the shift valve in the shift cover,, and replaced the leaking shuttle valve. I guess My question is what I asked.... What is it worth? what do shops charge for this repair.. I remember it being over $3000.00, 5 years ago.. but never saw a range shift valve rebuild ,and a shuttle valve replacement. thank's guy's, jojo

is the wastegate hose direct to the intake manifold or is there a control valve that sends air to the wastegate actuator? I seemed to have forgotten this setup for some reason.. sorry. jojo

have you dropped the pan and looked at the cam yet? My guess is the pushrod is spring loaded. what kind of shape is it in? compared to the others? are you only adjusting the lash, or are you adjusting the yoke and engine brake too? another thought, do you have a powerleash engine brake? and (With respect) do you know how to adjust the exhaust valve and engine brake lash on that setup? by now I would think the ceramic roller has fallen off and you are riding on the yoke on the lifter. does it make a noise in the exhaust like a popping sound... sorry about all these questions, just trying to get an idea why you need to adjust it often.. i bet your arm is tired from barring the engine around to #4 so many times.. jojo

you dont need dye. this is a process... you need to cap the output of the primary filter hose , and the fuel inlet to the block, below cyl. #3, and the the outlet below cyl. #5. this will isolate the 2 fuel galleries. then remove the 1/4" plug with a quarter drive ratchet. the plug is the visible one behind the overboard breather canister.. the hidden one is real, it is behind the timing cover. when you find the plug I mention, right below it is a hump in the timing cover.. the return gallery plug is there.. we wont go there right now.. since you will be dropping the pan to look... remove the overboard breather to give you room to work. rig up a fitting that lets you put air pressure to the galleries. it's 1/4 npt... 50-70 PSI should be enough.. dont go nuts on pressure... do not pull the EUP's .. apply air pressure and look up for bubbles and hissing.. it will be hard to see if the lower plug behind the timing cover is leaking, but you may be able to hear it through the breather hole. if you have a bore scope you can try to look in there to see.. honestly.. I never see that plug leak, but ... there is always the first one somewhere... I expect more guys posting their knowledge on this... jojo