Joey Mack

Cause everybody want's some.... How 'bout you??? jojo

so you dont have adjusting screws on the exhaust yoke/bridge? im just curious.. i have seen pinless intakes with a solid yoke, but i dont recall a solid exhaust yoke right now.. but maybe, sorry I get rusty at times,.. is the tranny an Allison? sorry for my Q's,,,, I too am trying to learn something here... no matter how many of these trucks/engines I have worked on, I always learn something... Maybe I should have already known the answer... as far as checking the H-ring.. yes you can see if it has turned, however, the slightest rotation will kill a lifter and cam. the real way to check rotation is a long process.. what you can do is use the long end of a coat hanger or a welding rod to check the depth compared to the others. there is an 1/8 " allowance. the H-rings are checked with the heads off and/or the cam out.. jojo

Hi guy's,,, So I'm doing a synchro repair in an Eaton FRO15210C.. My question is.... What is this repair worth in a shop/dealership, nowaday's.. I have done dozens of these, and my customer seem's to be sitting on his hands about price, but his truck has been in my shop for 5 week's, I did a few other big repairs as well. I have about 8 hours in the synchro job because I had to fight it every step of the way.. no biggie. the back case was cracked so that added $225.00 to the parts list, and I had to cut the yoke off. not sure there, mabey $200.00 for the yoke.. I have a rebuilder shop here that beats all prices and they have OE parts and PAI part's.. my labor will probably be around $800-$1000, including shop supplies.. the parts will be around $1300.00... so that would be $2300.00, tops for a synchro repair.. I had to replace the bearings, Hi gear and Lo gear due to chipped teeth.. which is normal.. and re-ringed the shift valve in the shift cover,, and replaced the leaking shuttle valve. I guess My question is what I asked.... What is it worth? what do shops charge for this repair.. I remember it being over $3000.00, 5 years ago.. but never saw a range shift valve rebuild ,and a shuttle valve replacement. thank's guy's, jojo

is the wastegate hose direct to the intake manifold or is there a control valve that sends air to the wastegate actuator? I seemed to have forgotten this setup for some reason.. sorry. jojo

have you dropped the pan and looked at the cam yet? My guess is the pushrod is spring loaded. what kind of shape is it in? compared to the others? are you only adjusting the lash, or are you adjusting the yoke and engine brake too? another thought, do you have a powerleash engine brake? and (With respect) do you know how to adjust the exhaust valve and engine brake lash on that setup? by now I would think the ceramic roller has fallen off and you are riding on the yoke on the lifter. does it make a noise in the exhaust like a popping sound... sorry about all these questions, just trying to get an idea why you need to adjust it often.. i bet your arm is tired from barring the engine around to #4 so many times.. jojo

you dont need dye. this is a process... you need to cap the output of the primary filter hose , and the fuel inlet to the block, below cyl. #3, and the the outlet below cyl. #5. this will isolate the 2 fuel galleries. then remove the 1/4" plug with a quarter drive ratchet. the plug is the visible one behind the overboard breather canister.. the hidden one is real, it is behind the timing cover. when you find the plug I mention, right below it is a hump in the timing cover.. the return gallery plug is there.. we wont go there right now.. since you will be dropping the pan to look... remove the overboard breather to give you room to work. rig up a fitting that lets you put air pressure to the galleries. it's 1/4 npt... 50-70 PSI should be enough.. dont go nuts on pressure... do not pull the EUP's .. apply air pressure and look up for bubbles and hissing.. it will be hard to see if the lower plug behind the timing cover is leaking, but you may be able to hear it through the breather hole. if you have a bore scope you can try to look in there to see.. honestly.. I never see that plug leak, but ... there is always the first one somewhere... I expect more guys posting their knowledge on this... jojo

heck of a tranny!!! jojo

what year is the E-7?

ray ray. what year and model truck? I think the 'P' is for the park brake. jojo

valve guides and seals sounds good, along worn rings and cylinders. once you get the heads off, I bet you just go ahead and re-build it.. good luck, jojo

air compressor... what sez u. Paul? jojo

ok... so stop... ASET-C.. put a real pressure gauge on the oil filter pad and see if the oil pressure is truly low.. on the front side of the oil filter pad, you will see some 1/8" ports.. hook a gauge to one of them to get areal oil pressure reading.. I just built one of these last week, keep in touch... jojo

ok, but how is the performance?? jojo

so the body comes down and now you have lost functions?? any chance an air line or wire was pinched by the body... jojo

you are not posting enough info, I am out... sorry...

follow the air lines back to the tank. if they go to the same fitting, or pressure protection valve, it is probably stuck.. if that is what is there, you can remove the valve and hook the lines direct, just to get it to a shop, or off the job site. what model is the truck.. I think 1M2P2 is an RD.. is this a U.S. truck? jojo

ok.... Can you give more info on your issue, and Im guessing this is an MR or LE? are there multiple issues? many guys here to help you.. jojo

Dammit!!!! seem's to be a trend with this issue... I am on my 3rd engine repair due to diesel in the crankcase, in as many months.. The lift pump, is likely the cause.. jojo

are you posting a question, or responding to an 8 year old post? jojo

I guess heat it up first, do the hot test, leave them out and tomorrow do the cold test... jojo

yes, can you spray it with soapy water and look for bubbles?

well,,, maybe you should tell us more about the trucks condition, and what you have already checked out looking for damage. jojo

did you check the internal oil pump gears for wear and the pressure relief valve for a weak spring and or scratches in the bore and on the piston?? and did you see the condition of the 13 crank journals before the bearings were rolled in?.. was the crank cut .010" and standard bearings were installed?... look at the old bearings to see if the part number has a P-10 after the part number. the crank should have been stamped with the cut if there was one. jojo

I know i made my comments about ether... however, being from Maine, I have worked on many Mack's with 'propane injection' systems on them.. many were dissabled but some still had the switch in the cab . it was labeled as... 'for cold starts only' ... there was a common propane torch bottle screwed to the injection system.. I know I may be contradicting myself, but I do not like ether in a diesel.. like i said before.. I dont mind learning , if i'm wrong about something.. just saying... jojo

fuel pressure issue, is probable, since it wont fire up after it shuts off while HOT.. compression is at its best at this point, so why... doesnt it fire back up??? and how does the fuel leave the pump so quickly?? and is there more to know?? if you ever put fuel filters on and didnt put enough fuel in them. it will run for a minute, but when fuel gets below the filter pad nipple, well.... there you are ... dead... so you pull the filter and re-fill it and then pump the primer, if you have one, and ... off you go... call me crazy.... jojo