Joey Mack

I dont have a diagram handy to locate the exact switch, one thing you can do is put 30 psi in the truck air tanks, slowly remove the pressure switches, one at a time. if air starts leaking out of the one you are removing, screw it back in, go to the next one, look for one with no air pressure behind it, remove it, then press the brake pedal, if air comes out, thats the brake light switch, so then you can cross the wires to see if the brake lights come on.. any chance that both bulbs are burned out?? I guess i'm tossing ideas out there that are easy to do, I dont know if you have a shop, or help... jojo

Good luck, Glad you got back in touch. jojo

does the knock go away after a few minutes, and stay gone?

behind the pedals is where the brake light air switch is. I dont remember which one it is. you can pull the plugs off of them one at a time and jump the plugs, (Key on) then go see if the brake light's are on. if so, you found the switch, the trailer fuses are in the box on the firewall, left side by the steering column.. jojo

Well Fauci is leaving... Next,, need's to be Rochel Lowinsky.. yeah they are Doctor's.... But they are destructive.. See Ya, Bye... ( I dont care if I spelled their names wrong) ...

Mack rears??? If so .. peanuts in the front one.. inside the power divider,,, is possible,, The last one I did with the same issue, 3 months ago, had blown gears in the top reduction on the front drive.. (The Bevel Gears)... pull the side cover and look, the oil drain is on the back, at 7 O'Clock... 9/16" square plug, or if you have a temp sensor, that will be the drain plug.. jojo

yep But the 'B' rod in the 'A' hole MP.. I wouldnt know how to time one correctly without the rod gauge.. Hell,,, its been so long, I would have to open my book to do it.. So glad you are here to help the MP owners... jojo

yep, I do... we see it here often.... Deletes dont work.. unfortunately, you are at your own devices.. I know there are guys out there that can help you, I just dont know where they are... Good luck to you, jojo

ok, I m rusty, but I think there are 4 plugs that are the same,, 7th injector, egr, cam, and crank... I did a harness a few months ago and didnt mark the plugs, so it was kind of a shell game, trying to figure out what my mistakes were.. LOL jojo

ok, switch the cam and hidden crank shaft plugs and try again...

I just figured how to find all the illegal mexicans, to, either naturalize them or send them back... We have a soccer game in Charlotte right NOW... the stands are full of illegals... It's the easiest fishing trip ever... Just sayin, If you dont believe me,,, just turn the game on T.V. jojo

Volvo saw it fit to have 3-4 plugs keyed the same.. so if you dint mark them before removal,, like me you may forget where they go.. just saying.. to get to these plug's, you need to remove all of the plastic covers around the pedals, and the big one ont the right side, then the center console, with the cup holders, then behind it will be a steel cover, with 10mm headed bolts all around it, and hidden under the edge of the rubber floor mat. . sorry bud,,, I can strip one in 20 minutes, just be patient.. then you will see the back of the head and valve cover.. the sensors are right there.. keep in touch if you dig into this,,, we will guide you.. jojo

did you plug the cam and timing sensors into the correct plug' on the back of the engine? if not you will have hard to start condition, it will start and run, but it wont like the throttle pedal.. I hope MackPro, get's in on this one.. jojo

Ok.. next.... who did the valve adjustment?? I'm a "Stickler" about valve adjustment's an Mack engine's.. this is a side thought... Let's first address my previous post.. you will have a bunch of guys that will join in and guide you... jojo

ok.. without going deep... make a small gauge jumper wire.. to reach from the pos. on the alt. about 3 feet long... crimp an alligator clip to each end, ( you will save this tool for later diag.) climb up there, and un-plug the 2 jake plugs at the valve cover spacers.. you will see an 1/8" pin sticking out.. with the engine running at low idle. simply, clamp one clip to the Pos. on the Alt. and use the other end to touch on to the jake pin at the jake spacer... . It should activate the the jake on that head, and cause the engine to stumble... if it does not stumble the engine on that head, then the celeniod is either unhooked/cut under the valve cover, then you fix the wire.. or possibly the celenoid is bad.. it is a simple test, that Work's.. Jojo

I want to know,,,,-ish.... I bet we look like a bunch of wimp's... anyway, we have many times more normal people than the freaks that are broadcast around the world.. Unfortunately,, we have a F'd media that only focus's on what destroys us.. jojo

Just for kick's... unplug the EECU plugs and see if there is engine oil inside the sockets on the EECU... Do you have a list of codes? if so , post them... Cups and injectors is highly possible.. when the DPF was cleaned, was a forced re-gen done using PTT or equivalent, along with a soot level re-set and a 'learn data reset'?? how about an EECU software update?.. just curious, wouldnt the engine be an MP-8 in a CXU?? no biggie, just curious... I guess its an '09,, no DEF,,, jojo

yeah, i remember when this fruitcake came into power this year... I felt like puking.. Still do... Its like we are becoming a freak nation... jojo

May I suggest that you post,, the model/year/engine/tranny/ last 6 of the V.I.N./ and any related info... Welcome to the 'Dog House'... jojo

Hello 'Q'.. welcome aboard.. You commented on an old posting. How about telling us the year and model, engine, tranny and the issue you are having? You wont believe how many smart guys are ready to help you.. jojo

That is awesome.. I'm so glad it was a simple fix.. I feel like most of the time, the cause is something simple.. It was good of you to post the fix. I bet it ''Purr's like a Dog'' now... jojo

I just made a repair on a T-310, with the same issue.. I pulled the range fork out and found it had worn tip's,, but really not the worst iv'e seen,, i re-ringed the piston and cylinder and replaced the fork $600.00 for the fork.... (Through MACK) Why ???..... I test drove the truck, it range shifted correctly.. Look at PAI for the parts... Do you have a tranny re-builder in your area that will sell the part's? I use "Overdrive Rebuilder's" In Concord N.C. when ever I can... jojo

Happy Birthday Sir... jojo