Joey Mack

the numbers should be stamped into the tranny housing, on the left side, in-line with the clutch arm cross shaft, 2 inches from the seam where the rear case and front case meet.. You will have to pull the tranny to fix this leak, then you willl see if its the oil seal and /or the oil pump line/system , shown in the picture. jojo

ok, well, many times on these MP's. when there is a lot of codes, we find oil in the EECU sockets, and it causes multiple codes.. with that said, I will step back and watch, because I have been away from these engines for 4 years now, and I dont have the skill set that i used to have... There are several others that will see this post and help you.. Jojo

yep, 1/8"drill bit, centered between the seal lip, and the seal housing, it will leak some oil, no biggie... jojo

Yes

turn the key off, unplug the plugs on the E.E.C.U. If there is engine oil in any of the sockets of the E.E.C.U. you will need an engine harness.. jojo

if you replace the input seal on the steering box, when you get the old seal out, look to see if there is a grove in the input shaft. If so, a new seal wont last long.. Glad to see you back in the CH..... jojo

I like your 'Handle'... Just start out simple and thoroughly inspect what you can, "F" is right, He has excellent approaches at troubleshooting.. Jojo

I just went through my Midliner books, and I dont have any part numbers for the truck. Most of what I have is for the MS series.. I alos checked E-Bay, and nothing there right now.. I assume you are fixing the steer axle? jojo

Well here they go again... just now CBS said that Monkey Aids and covid, are primarily affecting Black people at a rate of around 15%... higher than whites... I just threw away all my mask's.. yippie, I'm cured!!!!!! I wish us Whitey's could have a Mask burning parade!!!! (Mouth Bra's) ... My Body, My Choice !!!!!! Hell No!! We Wont Go!!!! jojo

look under the right seat...

Which diagram? What system?

I dont have a diagram handy to locate the exact switch, one thing you can do is put 30 psi in the truck air tanks, slowly remove the pressure switches, one at a time. if air starts leaking out of the one you are removing, screw it back in, go to the next one, look for one with no air pressure behind it, remove it, then press the brake pedal, if air comes out, thats the brake light switch, so then you can cross the wires to see if the brake lights come on.. any chance that both bulbs are burned out?? I guess i'm tossing ideas out there that are easy to do, I dont know if you have a shop, or help... jojo

Good luck, Glad you got back in touch. jojo

does the knock go away after a few minutes, and stay gone?

behind the pedals is where the brake light air switch is. I dont remember which one it is. you can pull the plugs off of them one at a time and jump the plugs, (Key on) then go see if the brake light's are on. if so, you found the switch, the trailer fuses are in the box on the firewall, left side by the steering column.. jojo

Well Fauci is leaving... Next,, need's to be Rochel Lowinsky.. yeah they are Doctor's.... But they are destructive.. See Ya, Bye... ( I dont care if I spelled their names wrong) ...

Mack rears??? If so .. peanuts in the front one.. inside the power divider,,, is possible,, The last one I did with the same issue, 3 months ago, had blown gears in the top reduction on the front drive.. (The Bevel Gears)... pull the side cover and look, the oil drain is on the back, at 7 O'Clock... 9/16" square plug, or if you have a temp sensor, that will be the drain plug.. jojo

yep But the 'B' rod in the 'A' hole MP.. I wouldnt know how to time one correctly without the rod gauge.. Hell,,, its been so long, I would have to open my book to do it.. So glad you are here to help the MP owners... jojo

yep, I do... we see it here often.... Deletes dont work.. unfortunately, you are at your own devices.. I know there are guys out there that can help you, I just dont know where they are... Good luck to you, jojo

ok, I m rusty, but I think there are 4 plugs that are the same,, 7th injector, egr, cam, and crank... I did a harness a few months ago and didnt mark the plugs, so it was kind of a shell game, trying to figure out what my mistakes were.. LOL jojo

ok, switch the cam and hidden crank shaft plugs and try again...

I just figured how to find all the illegal mexicans, to, either naturalize them or send them back... We have a soccer game in Charlotte right NOW... the stands are full of illegals... It's the easiest fishing trip ever... Just sayin, If you dont believe me,,, just turn the game on T.V. jojo

Volvo saw it fit to have 3-4 plugs keyed the same.. so if you dint mark them before removal,, like me you may forget where they go.. just saying.. to get to these plug's, you need to remove all of the plastic covers around the pedals, and the big one ont the right side, then the center console, with the cup holders, then behind it will be a steel cover, with 10mm headed bolts all around it, and hidden under the edge of the rubber floor mat. . sorry bud,,, I can strip one in 20 minutes, just be patient.. then you will see the back of the head and valve cover.. the sensors are right there.. keep in touch if you dig into this,,, we will guide you.. jojo

did you plug the cam and timing sensors into the correct plug' on the back of the engine? if not you will have hard to start condition, it will start and run, but it wont like the throttle pedal.. I hope MackPro, get's in on this one.. jojo