Joey Mack

you mentioned , piston cooling nozzle.... this engine has 6 of them... did you mean something else? the only reason to replace 1 of these would be due to damage, like bending it, for example.. jojo

well,, be careful you dont offend someone by using the word 'gender' I hope we get this truck truck tuned in for you,, jojo

ASET C

OK,, just dial it back a bit... Dawg.. lets not go to a bad place.. the truck you have is a good truck, the engine you have is a 'Female' it always has an issue!! .. Mechanically they perform very well, but whoever does the 'major' work, really needs to know what he's doing. to me,, there is not any room for just 'wingin' it' .. i am not tryin to be an ass about mechanic's, I myself am nowhere near perfect.. But I also dont do heart surgery,, ya know why??? anyway..... just do some research on the engine you have, and develope some other questions, and post more info.. i am concerned about the blue smoke .. and oil pressure should be around 90 cold and 35+ at operating temp.. jojo

bad grounds is quite possible.. research Mack bullitens for a 9-2 code.. that gives a good procedure for fixing the grounds... jojo

Yes JoeH...

I think it will shut it off.. did you try to flash the ABS codes? the switch is under the dash, next to the steering column. it is an orange lighted switch..

ok, the 2 piece coolant tanks 'Suck' there is a single aluminum tank kit, around $550.00 at Mack. the bottom tank that you have is only supposed to have 1 inch of coolant in it when cold.. never mind the min/max levels on the side of the tank. pushing coolant is a common issue, due to several reasons. also, once coolant pushes through the little Pee-hole in the lower tank cap, it will continue to suck coolant out until a gallon or so is removed. leaving 1 inch in the lower tank is 'supposed' to allow enough room to manage the coolant level.. the coolant on the oil cooler, is it around the short hose that has the 'squeezy clamp'? seems to me you have a couple things going on.. the blue smoke has me curios. have you taken the hose off the intake snorkle to see if oil is present?

Humm... mabey you have 2 issues, is the antifreeze full/ above the sensor? I just dont recall traction control causing a 'shutdown' jojo

I am trying to think of other reasons for low oil pressure... you said a new oil pump.. did you put it on? was the suction tube installed correctly, so that the oring that seals it to the pump, is seated properly? another question, was the oil pump correct for that engine series? I think there was a couple different drive gears, with all the new parts, I'm at a loss for ideas, assuming the engine was built correctly. I will keep watching and if i think of something I will post it.. jojo

ASET-C... probably a 427 HP.. lots of sensors..

the codes are stored, "in-active" traction control should start with MID 136... 'ABS system' im curious why it is shutting down? what other symptoms do you have prior to it shutting down? jojo

since you posted CXN 613, it should be an ASET C engine.. it will have a big turbo with an EGR valve above it and a stainless steel pipe that goes over the top of the engine.. if so.... yes, it is very computerized... jojo

I tried to post better pics but I was over limit.. dont know why I have been limited so much lately.. at some point I wont be able to post any more pics... jojo

I have bitched so many times about hours spent on 'keeping the light's on' because there is 50 of them.. or how a 4 wheel brake job takes 30+ minutes longer because of all chrome caps,... "I have a full shop and dont have time to waste on you re 'make-up'"!!!... yeah they look good, i just cringe when I have to work on them, and god forbid, if something gets a scratch.. then I have to go inside the cab to make a repair, and the pretty truck is a damn mess in the cab with spit cups and stains all over the dash and the floor, piss jugs and such, .. "But I need to look good goin down the road" anyway,, I laugh, but for me it suck's.. jojo

60-100 psi..

I have an E-6 2 valve in my shop as well, an ENDT673.. I need to get back on it, after i finish the 2 other engines I have on stands. what should I look for in the push rods? they are all the same, the rod is narrower than the ball and seat ends.. jojo

I guess I was in the moment.. sorry about the lengthy posts,, I just couldnt stop typing... jojo

dang-it... i forgot,,, Engine brake lash was originally .015",,, then they went to .017",,,, and after the reset screw update along with the other stuff, lash was set at .021", we also stamped the data plate on the jake head with a 'B' or a 'C' after each update, and the plate on the front valve cover was stamped wit the 'new' eng. brk lash as well.. dammit,,, its flowing back into my head.. jojo

My post is only based off of my memory of when I did these updates many years ago,, there is a chance I left something out. I did not re-read the bulliten before posting... Jojo

the "Top oil feed" update came in around 2001 or so.. It was for the 690 Jacobs heads.. the heads were dissasembled, then a drilling 'jig' was placed on top left of the middle if i rember correctly,. you were to drill into the jake head about a 1/4" into the oil gallery, but not through it. you know... then tap threads in it to accept a 90 degree #4 JIC fitting. the jake spacers were replacedwith spacers that had #4 JIC bulk head connectors built in.. the jake heads were the flushed out ot get the filings out, and new reset screws were installed, you also flipped it over and 'picked out ' 5 pieces from the oiler port in the bottom of the head. it was a retainer, spring, BB, oring, and something else i forgot.. then the little allen headed delivery valve in the rocker shaft was replaced with a 10mm hex head check valve.. i think we also replace the pistons and springs and washers and snaprings int the jake heads.. we aslo replaced the reset screws in the exhaust rockers with a kit called. 215SB321 with the new armolly screws.. I forget the measurement, anyway, one issue there was that the reset pins would mash into the reset screw which I beleive caused the engine brake to not open the exhaust valve enough to funtion right.. the oil lines we speak of, were SS braide lines. at the oil filter pad we added a fitting to the turbo oil feed port, and ran lines up to the jake spacers to supply higher oil pressure to the jake heads... it worked, but was still not that good... it only got better, when Mack went back to making their own engine brake, and so the "Powerleash" was born .. jojo

also, the air compressor may get its air from the manifold,, check the connection.. jojo

Amen, Mech... Amen... jojo

lets not forget that every White American Man is a Racist... But we still have to pay into the 'till' this is all about destroying the white man, and then the all white people.. at leaste here in the U.S. of A. talk about biting the hand that feed's you.... jojo

keep doing what you are doing.. these engines will run on one or the other but it needs both to maintain good balance..