Joey Mack

did you remove the clutch arm from the fork shaft?? it needs to be be off... jojo

Happy Birthday of The U.S.A. guy's.... America !!!! 'F' Yeah !!!!!! jojo

I too have a bunch of parts, its getting smaller.. I had a bunch of old Ford car engine parts that I rescued from a bulldozer, I was able to sell a lot of it at a major Swap meet event near me, I sold them cheap, but they went to good homes, and not back to China in little pieces, only to be resold to us as new junk... I wish I could find a place to bring my 'core' parts.. I hate to trash them, especially because finding the replacement part was an effort.. jojo

Thanks Paul, Happy Birthday to the United States of America..!!! 🎂 jojo

was the radio replaced? i see the truck is new... but if you changed the radio, you have to tell the truck you changed it using P.T.T.,, maybe it just needs to be re-programmed.. jojo

you may want to take it off, with care and box it up.. someone may want it and be willing to shed a few dollars.. plus you are not throwing hard to find parts in the trash as I still see guys do.. just a thought... jojo

hey TJC... its an '09.. that means it s a Vulva..... He can use the 'magic wand' on the right side of the steering column to read the code.. of course it's a Vulva... He will still need to write the code down and look it up.... Of course it is a Vulva.. .. sorry, I may have not been clear here... jojo

yep....

Once again... I saw the word "Delete" on a post about a 2007 and newer truck.... The computers on these trucks are smarter than us... 'sorry' I ment, Me... Too many sensor's, analizing the engine..... as it runs... anyway, I don't know, jojo

so does it pull hot air off the exhaust manifold, for warming up the engine? I would like to think the valve is in the bypass position when cold, and then when air pressure is up, you can switch to 'normal' I dont know, just curious.. jojo

maybe a cracked intake manifold, or missing bolts... jojo

Traitor...

so now the Bidenite's, here in N.C. are going after an 87 year old white woman, for the Emmit Hill killng back in 1955... Of course it IS about racism against a Black person... Really??? Jojo

yep,, of course model and year of the truck would help... Glenn is the Man... jojo

have you just tried to pull the throttle stop, while it is running, and push it back in before the engine spins down to stop, and see if it picks up fuel and starts back up??? I know i said something about fuel filters, but while i was siting on the toilet,, a minute ago,, I had a thought.... jojo

Hmmmm??? have the fuel filters been re-located-or- modified? They are usually mounted below the injection pump... but above the fuel tanks.. with them being above the fuel tank there can be some bleed back, but the lift pump should recover the fuel before it runs dry.. I'm just tossing that out there.. jojo

Not till 2024, Bob... sorry.... we are in a new type of 'survival mode'... jojo

Here I go again... So true Bob....

so true Mech...

taking a couple hours to check the health of the bottom end, and the cam and lifter's, is not 'work' it's a P.M. The pan gasket and the 30insulators may be re-useable,,,, thats up to you.. If you do not own a 'barring tool' I suggest you get one now.. Monaco tool/ Freedom racing/ Tillman tool's// are where I get my tools.. ..it's under $100.00. ,,, jojo

during the next oil change, drop the pan and check the cam lobes that operate the EUP's.. I have seen this, I am building one right now that had chipped lobes on all six.. Strange to me, but metal doesnt lie... jojo

yes sir,, I bet the parts will be around $15,000.00, and my labor will be around $4500.00.. plus the other do-dads, like getting the radiator and CAC flushed and tested,... it may sound like a deal, but it used to be a lot cheaper, for good quality parts.. and we didnt have to hunt 6+ places to get the parts we need. and "National Back Order" is the new, normal.. so we are forced to use aftermarket parts that may be crap... but the truck needs to roll and make money.. I dont know how much longer I can do this work.. Little guys like me are being destroyed in the B.S. ... I just learned today that a 30# cylinder of R-134 is $440.00... 6 weeks ago it was $330.00, last year I paid $140.00.. Just another example of what kill's little guys like me,.. because i am small,,, truck owners think I'm a discount mechanic, and they wont pay "Shop supplies" and materials, without a fuss.. anyway,,, it's tough, at times.. jojo

So I am currently building an ASET-C... I couldnt get all of the parts from Mack. Engine kit is PAI/ cam and lifters are PAI/ because of nat';l back order.. no sh!t?? Plate type oil cooler is not available/ ours is at a shop getting pressure tested and cleaned.. heads,,, 1 reman from Mack and 1 from DEX..( God Bless DEX).. I tried to find exhaust studs and nuts on-line... no luck for some reason... so,, back to Mack... $675.00 for 12 studs and 12 nuts.. are you F'n kidding me.? There is more but I really don't have the blood pressure to write it out.. B.T.W. a reman engine from MACK, is 6-8 months out or you can pull your engine and send it to them.... still 6+ months out.. It is hard work to build a quality engine, without all the B.S.,.. Now,, W.T.F.?? and I still have another E-Tech and an E-7 Mechanical to build... anyway,, It never used to be this hard to do good work... is there anybody out there getting it done without these issues???? jojo

did you hook the plug to the wiper motor, and cycle it with the switch to let it do a full sweep and then stop?? before you hooked up? then you leave the wiper arms off, and do it again before you put the arms back on.... my question is redundant, because I dont know where you got the wiper motor.. jojo

NO ETHER!!!!!!! they run right if compression is right and fuel is delivered right... If you keep putting ether to it, it will be one of 3 things,,, addicted to drugs,, or bent rods.... and lets not make #3 happen... jojo