Joey Mack

Hmmmm??? have the fuel filters been re-located-or- modified? They are usually mounted below the injection pump... but above the fuel tanks.. with them being above the fuel tank there can be some bleed back, but the lift pump should recover the fuel before it runs dry.. I'm just tossing that out there.. jojo

Not till 2024, Bob... sorry.... we are in a new type of 'survival mode'... jojo

Here I go again... So true Bob....

so true Mech...

taking a couple hours to check the health of the bottom end, and the cam and lifter's, is not 'work' it's a P.M. The pan gasket and the 30insulators may be re-useable,,,, thats up to you.. If you do not own a 'barring tool' I suggest you get one now.. Monaco tool/ Freedom racing/ Tillman tool's// are where I get my tools.. ..it's under $100.00. ,,, jojo

during the next oil change, drop the pan and check the cam lobes that operate the EUP's.. I have seen this, I am building one right now that had chipped lobes on all six.. Strange to me, but metal doesnt lie... jojo

yes sir,, I bet the parts will be around $15,000.00, and my labor will be around $4500.00.. plus the other do-dads, like getting the radiator and CAC flushed and tested,... it may sound like a deal, but it used to be a lot cheaper, for good quality parts.. and we didnt have to hunt 6+ places to get the parts we need. and "National Back Order" is the new, normal.. so we are forced to use aftermarket parts that may be crap... but the truck needs to roll and make money.. I dont know how much longer I can do this work.. Little guys like me are being destroyed in the B.S. ... I just learned today that a 30# cylinder of R-134 is $440.00... 6 weeks ago it was $330.00, last year I paid $140.00.. Just another example of what kill's little guys like me,.. because i am small,,, truck owners think I'm a discount mechanic, and they wont pay "Shop supplies" and materials, without a fuss.. anyway,,, it's tough, at times.. jojo

So I am currently building an ASET-C... I couldnt get all of the parts from Mack. Engine kit is PAI/ cam and lifters are PAI/ because of nat';l back order.. no sh!t?? Plate type oil cooler is not available/ ours is at a shop getting pressure tested and cleaned.. heads,,, 1 reman from Mack and 1 from DEX..( God Bless DEX).. I tried to find exhaust studs and nuts on-line... no luck for some reason... so,, back to Mack... $675.00 for 12 studs and 12 nuts.. are you F'n kidding me.? There is more but I really don't have the blood pressure to write it out.. B.T.W. a reman engine from MACK, is 6-8 months out or you can pull your engine and send it to them.... still 6+ months out.. It is hard work to build a quality engine, without all the B.S.,.. Now,, W.T.F.?? and I still have another E-Tech and an E-7 Mechanical to build... anyway,, It never used to be this hard to do good work... is there anybody out there getting it done without these issues???? jojo

did you hook the plug to the wiper motor, and cycle it with the switch to let it do a full sweep and then stop?? before you hooked up? then you leave the wiper arms off, and do it again before you put the arms back on.... my question is redundant, because I dont know where you got the wiper motor.. jojo

NO ETHER!!!!!!! they run right if compression is right and fuel is delivered right... If you keep putting ether to it, it will be one of 3 things,,, addicted to drugs,, or bent rods.... and lets not make #3 happen... jojo

one of my favorite movies,,,, i didnt even need to see the clip you posted... F'n Awesome.. Jojo

oop's the tranny gasket pack as well.. jojo ????

yes sir,, and now my customer has taken control of the parts list and said he bought all the the parts for $525.00... from Freightliner... I asked him if it included, the high range hub that is chewed up/ the low range hub that is chewed up/ the snap rings to secure the hubs/ the snap rings for the range fork shift rail/ the output seal kit/ the full round yoke that I have to cut of/ the yoke nut/ the orings to re-seal the range shuttle valve as well as re- sealing the range shift cylinder... ?? oh yeah and the $200.00 back case cover.. ...

i was wondering about that.... do you see marks on the frame rail where there was a different suspension setup? ie: Mack camel back, or maybe, Hendrickson HN or HaulMaxx?? or maybe the truck was cut in half and a different back half was installed.. do you see where the frame was cut and rebuilt? Once again, Sir... it's my bedtime.. Good luck to you... Jojo

my guess is the drive shaft is 'Spicer life'.. I havent ever seen one out of phase from the factory, but I also have not seen everything.. also.. the brackets that hold the center bearing's, should be looked at, there are angled shims for certain lengths of driveline.. but your truck looked to be normal, so I expect no shims between the center bearings and the mounts.. I used to be much smarter abut this, but I got a bit of rust on me.. recheck the ride height of the suspension... jojo

yes, Paul,,, It gets hard to tell, Man or Woman??? between hair color, jewlery, tatoo's, and the way they walk, and the tone of their voice...... it's hard to tell... used to be, you looked for boobs or a sweet A$$.. maybe some really nice legs, pretty eye's,,, now...... not so much.... all 25 of the NEW breeds have those features..... I sure am glad I am not in the dating world today... I would be afraid of picking a 'male, for lack of a better word' , or better yet, being arrested for asking someone out for a dinner date, and spending 2 years in jail... Jojo

is the drive shaft phased correctly? what about the angle of the drive shaft. I think I saw a torque arm, for air ride...? this can force a u-joint cap to rotate,, it still needs to be fixed.. jojo

Grease/grease/grease/.. good call terry.. you rekon a new $10.00 strap kit would be in order?? jojo

yellow button is for the power unit, ie: truck tractor,, red button is for the trailer..

you can take a red glad hand and screw a shop air line nipple into it and hook it to the trailer, and charge the trailer, without the truck and test it... the trailer can also be the issue, if the issue exists when hooked to the trailer.. either way, it would be good to test the trailer, since you just said that it happened when the trailer was hooked up.. jojo

the coupler on the wet tank, will allow you to charge the air system.. good deal..

you are doing the best you can,, just be aware of wasting your money at shops.. You seem to be be quite smart... rely on yourself just like you are doing.. I beleive you will fix this issue.. try to isolate the truck from the trailer, to help in the repair. are you able to hook shop air to the truck, so that it isnt running, and making a lot of noise while you look for the issue? im trying sir, even though I said I was 'out'... i guess i;m never really out.... jojo

OK.. I said that I was out.... But really sir,, you need to slow down.... this is not as big'a deal as you have been posting.. It's not "Rocket Surgery"... Just for kicks,, replace all the cans and the valves, and then you will find out that there was a crappy dash valve... anytime air is delivered based on the key switch means its electric over air... however, you need to have a stored supply of air over 90 PSI... so now???? does the truck leak down over night or in an hour?? or what??.... I feel like you have a small amount of knowledge, and folks are taking advantage of you..... Please keep trying to fix this yourself.. You really need to pay attention to what Glenn Akers said, and a few others.. jojo

thanks Bob,, I'm just fine... Not even mad at me, I have done dozens of these. there was obviously a weak spot that decided to show up yesterday.. My customer can afford a tranny, so I will do my best to fix this as good as I can with some reused parts.. I got this.... Jojo

well the gears are good, the back box cover is junk. i will have to cut the yoke off, but i need to check the price of the yoke and main shaft, before I use $50.00 worth of oxy. acetolene.. I will also be looking into a complete back box as a unit.. that will be more cost effective at this point, of course with todays crazy pricing, I may need to just replace the whole tranny... It used to be a lot easier to determine repair costs on Eaton tranny's.. I'll let you know.. Jojo