Joey Mack

The front diff. system may just be a power divider lock. It would be going into the input housing..

ok. I understand.. I guess I threw out a few old ideas I had. Yes Meritor is right.. I know I said eaton, but I looked at the picture again, I know that I do not have a Meritor rear end book.. Here in the last month, I bought 3 Mack books from E-bay.. There is a bunch of guys on here from youre part of the world, who are very smart, maybe one of them is familiar with the Austrailian version.. jojo

When you say it locks up while running.... I'd be surprised if it didn't bend a connecting rod, because it sounds like there is an excessive amount fluid entering a cylinder, ie: fuel, coolant, oil... does it smoke bad when it runs? Is the oil level rising? is the coolant level dropping? My first thought would be a bad injector that is over fueling a cylinder. do you have any active or inactive fault codes? You really need to stop running this engine before major damage occurs. Hopefully it is not hurt too bad now.. do you have a bore scope that you can run into the intake manifold to see if there is a really wet intake port? Is there fluid leaking from the exhaust starting and the manifold, turbo, and any clamps before it gets to the DPF? I'm sorry about all of these questions. More info will be here shortly.... jojo

I would think that the o-ring on the piston is broken, or possibly a cracked piston. So then the piston is not moving which wont engage the detent ball on the end of the switch, as you stated. I would just pull the small cover off and inspect it.. .............. I just looked at the picture again.. maybe pull the detent switch out first and turn the lock 'on'. I bet air comes out of the hole. I am wondering if the bolt next to the piston housing is actually a 'caging bolt'.. used to keep the shift fork from dropping out of place.. I don't remember how these diff lock's look inside, because I havent had one apart in a long time. However, sliding this rear end forward is not that big of a deal, in the case that you had too. I just looked again at the picture... I wonder if behind that small bolt is a counter bore with smaller threads, where you would screw a longer smaller diameter bolt, like an 8mmX1.25 metric bolt and it cages the shift fork.. If I remember correctly, to remove the piston housing, you would use a pipe wrench and unscrew it. Maybe get a close-up pic of the data plate. I think its and Eaton 405, I may have a service manual on this model, of course, I also expect a few guys to help you more directly than I can.. Jojo

President Trump could see into the future and protected us and our economy.. Our current President, also saw into the future. He stopped our pipeline on day one, and now our fuel prices are going to reach and surpass the prices from 2005 and so on, all because of the Issues in Ukraine. He planned to cripple our country, and new that Russia's govt. would try to take Ukraine... I wish I was more eloquent, but I'm not that smart. I just call out what I believe I see. It makes me sick to think the appointed one, was put in place to destroy our great country.. Opening our southern border and giving away everything to these Illegals, that WE all have to pay for out of our PAY CHECKS, something that these people dont have a clue about. Not to mention the intentional destruction of our relationship with each other by allowing the claims that all white men are racist, and all criminals need to be free, and we need to understand why they are criminals. Whats next J.B.?

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I would like to be educated on the S/P switch, not sure if I know what it is... jojo

that little horse shoe tube is a fuel return jumper from head to head.. 7 pieces, buy all of them and replace it all new... no more leak... jojo

the picture is not wide enough for me... I think the oil on the spring is coming from the steering box and not the overboard breather.. I bet it runs fine, just needs more frequent maintenance, if hes not going to roll rods and mains and a new oil pump... jojo

i would think you are a severe service application. wouldnt 150 hrs be correct? I need to look in my maint. and lube book.. I thought I was doing 150 on dump trucks when I ran a fleet. about 4-5 /per year... jojo

we are screwed!!!!

If it runs good and get's the job done.. run it... keep up on the fluids and temperature.. belts and so on, and it will run and run... jojo

"Fix what you know is broke!" Jojo

right.... but the connection itself is not a fused link.. so cut it, and remove the bad wire approx. 1/2" of wire, and solder in good wire if there is not enough to make the connection's.... jojo

I did, however when you first said to parralel them I believe you meant 'series' because thats how you double the voltage. it would make 12 v on each side, then for the starter you would series those cables. and for the cab power you would come off one set at 12 volts... Good chance I F'd this up now... jojo

there is a small pipe plug behind the breather.. you can grab a 10mm socket and remove the breather, clean the area, and run the engine to see if it leaks.. jojo

Yeah.... What he said.....

I think its bit too much blowby, and the low oil pressure when warmed up. 20+ would make me feel better.. when was the last time the oil pump was re[laced, as well as rod and main bearings? the blowby is usually worn rings, I have done rods and mains and an oil pump several times to help improve oil pressure.. Of course I didnt do cam bushings, due to cust. budget or request... it does help. I also check the welch plugs in the rocker arm shafts to make sure one is not leaking by or popped out.. ive made that repair a few times... there will be more comments on the way.. one of us will help you... jojo

Hayseed, I laugh... If you ask my wife, a broken clock is right more times a day than I am.. (2) 6volt batteries makes sense to me.. jojo

I believe, I would cut them to a clean spot and solder in new wire. I would also slide a heat shrink on the wires before I solder them.. I dont think that is a fused link, I believe it is just 2 wires into 1, under the heatshrink.. jojo

I'm guessing it's a 24 volt system with negative ground? I would just check the battery cables for proper routing, and tightly crimped ends. D.C.W. has a good point as well... I assume the 2 6 you post is 26 volts when running... it should be 28.4 ish when running... any thoughts? jojo

My guess is Jessica Is in R+D? I"m Looking for a career change.. Let me know if I can be of service. I can bring my tool box... jojo

wish you well... I believe it s a wiring issue, and possibly a bad ground or 2+... jojo

have you set the sensor in the flywheel housing correctly? all the way in til it touches, then 1 turn out...? same for the speed sensor at the tranny tail shaft... jojo

do you have a robert bosch 7100 pump? send a pic....