Joey Mack

Hayseed, I laugh... If you ask my wife, a broken clock is right more times a day than I am.. (2) 6volt batteries makes sense to me.. jojo

I believe, I would cut them to a clean spot and solder in new wire. I would also slide a heat shrink on the wires before I solder them.. I dont think that is a fused link, I believe it is just 2 wires into 1, under the heatshrink.. jojo

I'm guessing it's a 24 volt system with negative ground? I would just check the battery cables for proper routing, and tightly crimped ends. D.C.W. has a good point as well... I assume the 2 6 you post is 26 volts when running... it should be 28.4 ish when running... any thoughts? jojo

My guess is Jessica Is in R+D? I"m Looking for a career change.. Let me know if I can be of service. I can bring my tool box... jojo

wish you well... I believe it s a wiring issue, and possibly a bad ground or 2+... jojo

have you set the sensor in the flywheel housing correctly? all the way in til it touches, then 1 turn out...? same for the speed sensor at the tranny tail shaft... jojo

do you have a robert bosch 7100 pump? send a pic....

I dont know about that, and would not introduce a future issue.. Just take it to Mack or someone with PTT for Mack or a ProLink 9000 with a V-MACIII pmcia card... you can set road speed and cruise speed... jojo

OK. I am curious why you may need another FIC module.. but.... if that what gets you going for a few years, then I guess that's it.. You have one hell of a truck!!! Keep it rollin... jojo

I forgot... did we talk about the sensor in the flywheel housing? jojo

Good night sir, thank you for your kind words... jojo

ok.. You are obviously a well studied person when it comes to this topic and the specs you know.. Truly impressive.. I may not be much help, but I will continue to try, and then I learn from you... Jojo

You seem to have a damn good skill set.. I wonder if there is a bad spot in the wiring to the injection pump.. I assume you have checked them, Do you have an E-7 book? if not, i do and can try to find the flow chart to fix this issue... jojo

OK... Now I understand better... did you check the condition of the gray Duetch plug at the inj. pump?

I see what you are saying, I guess beacuse the 2080 has a range button and it is shifted using double clutching, or you stop and put it into high split when you are out of the hole you were in, and the (B) has the rotary shifter which requires a synchro... jojo

Of course.... its very easy to stand the tranny on it's nose and pull the back box off. just keep a rope with a loop in one end , handy so you can lasso the counter shafts... jojo

I dont believe there is a synchro in the straight 2080.. might there be a cover on the back box that you can pull to inspect it? the blue book in the picture covers a wide range of tranny's,.. as you know, the main 5 speed box is basically the same, the aux. boxes give each tranny it flare... P.M. me anytime if you need info.. Good chance I have a book.. and I have been know (by my wife) to buy a book, just to answer a question here... I know I will use them at some point. jojo

Hey Bud, can you specify the issue. The post is 6 years old and I think it would be helpful to have current info.. Lots of smart guys here to help you. jojo

those duetch connectors are available. any chance NAPA can get the parts? you may have to buy each part seperatley. the plug, rubber seal ring, terminals, terminal lock, and rubber plugs for open sockets, and the rubber seals that go on the wires before you crimp or solder the terminals to the wires.. jojo

I just learned that the unloader is remote and not in the compressor head... jojo

Hello Vlad, I just went to my library. The 2080B looks to have a synchro in the back box. I posted the shift pattern and the pic with my finger, is me pointing to the synchro. I posted pics of the 2080 just to show the difference. the picture with all the books is also in my library. I have 3 sets of 200 series books, and 2 sets of 300 series books, as well as Mack rears, drive shaft and many others... I will post any info that I can to help you in the future. jojo

'V' I recieved a PM on this topic, and thought I should copy + paste what I wrote back, so that others could see how to dissect the doghouse.. Thank you for the respect, Jojo

If you have trouble reaching in there to get the plugs, you can pull the cut out rubber section where the shift would be and pull the pan out, more 10mm headed bolts. I do it because I cant get my hands in there real good... jojo

Ok.. all of the lower panels are linked.. you need a T-27 torx bit, and a 10mm chrome socket, preferably 1/4" drive, and a small can for the 20+ screws you are about to remove. I use a small snap-on battery gun to speed this along.. remove the chrome torks screws in the lower steering column cover (3 ea.)... then remove the panels around the pedals, then go to the pass. side and remove the big square panel. now you can remove the side panels around the doghouse. then the front panel. then you will see 2 metal brackets, one on each side of the dog house, and a blanket covering the doghouse panel. remove the right bracket, then you can remove the blanket without tearing it... (It may already be torn).. now you will see metal doghouse cover, it has about (12) 10mm headed bolts, remove them. there is a row of bolts along the bottom edge, press down on the rubber floor mat to expose them. the cover is glued in place, so a small pry bar may be needed to get it out. now you will see the back of the valve cover, head and engine.. there are 4 plugs that are the same. Cam sensor, Crank sensor, EGR valve and the 7th injector. The cam sensor is in the right side rear corner, its hiding back there, the crank sensor is at the top of the flywheel housing, it too is hiding.. Swap the plugs, and crank the truck. if it fires right up, you got it. run it up to Op. Temp to check it out. if its good.. put it back together... jojo

I guess im too late... great selection... jojo