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Joey Mack

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Joey Mack

  1. do you have a robert bosch 7100 pump? send a pic....
  2. I dont know about that, and would not introduce a future issue.. Just take it to Mack or someone with PTT for Mack or a ProLink 9000 with a V-MACIII pmcia card... you can set road speed and cruise speed... jojo
  3. OK. I am curious why you may need another FIC module.. but.... if that what gets you going for a few years, then I guess that's it.. You have one hell of a truck!!! Keep it rollin... jojo
  4. I forgot... did we talk about the sensor in the flywheel housing? jojo
  5. Good night sir, thank you for your kind words... jojo
  6. ok.. You are obviously a well studied person when it comes to this topic and the specs you know.. Truly impressive.. I may not be much help, but I will continue to try, and then I learn from you... Jojo
  7. You seem to have a damn good skill set.. I wonder if there is a bad spot in the wiring to the injection pump.. I assume you have checked them, Do you have an E-7 book? if not, i do and can try to find the flow chart to fix this issue... jojo
  8. OK... Now I understand better... did you check the condition of the gray Duetch plug at the inj. pump?
  9. I see what you are saying, I guess beacuse the 2080 has a range button and it is shifted using double clutching, or you stop and put it into high split when you are out of the hole you were in, and the (B) has the rotary shifter which requires a synchro... jojo
  10. Of course.... its very easy to stand the tranny on it's nose and pull the back box off. just keep a rope with a loop in one end , handy so you can lasso the counter shafts... jojo
  11. I dont believe there is a synchro in the straight 2080.. might there be a cover on the back box that you can pull to inspect it? the blue book in the picture covers a wide range of tranny's,.. as you know, the main 5 speed box is basically the same, the aux. boxes give each tranny it flare... P.M. me anytime if you need info.. Good chance I have a book.. and I have been know (by my wife) to buy a book, just to answer a question here... I know I will use them at some point. jojo
  12. Hey Bud, can you specify the issue. The post is 6 years old and I think it would be helpful to have current info.. Lots of smart guys here to help you. jojo
  13. those duetch connectors are available. any chance NAPA can get the parts? you may have to buy each part seperatley. the plug, rubber seal ring, terminals, terminal lock, and rubber plugs for open sockets, and the rubber seals that go on the wires before you crimp or solder the terminals to the wires.. jojo
  14. I just learned that the unloader is remote and not in the compressor head... jojo
  15. Hello Vlad, I just went to my library. The 2080B looks to have a synchro in the back box. I posted the shift pattern and the pic with my finger, is me pointing to the synchro. I posted pics of the 2080 just to show the difference. the picture with all the books is also in my library. I have 3 sets of 200 series books, and 2 sets of 300 series books, as well as Mack rears, drive shaft and many others... I will post any info that I can to help you in the future. jojo
  16. 'V' I recieved a PM on this topic, and thought I should copy + paste what I wrote back, so that others could see how to dissect the doghouse.. Thank you for the respect, Jojo
  17. If you have trouble reaching in there to get the plugs, you can pull the cut out rubber section where the shift would be and pull the pan out, more 10mm headed bolts. I do it because I cant get my hands in there real good... jojo
  18. Ok.. all of the lower panels are linked.. you need a T-27 torx bit, and a 10mm chrome socket, preferably 1/4" drive, and a small can for the 20+ screws you are about to remove. I use a small snap-on battery gun to speed this along.. remove the chrome torks screws in the lower steering column cover (3 ea.)... then remove the panels around the pedals, then go to the pass. side and remove the big square panel. now you can remove the side panels around the doghouse. then the front panel. then you will see 2 metal brackets, one on each side of the dog house, and a blanket covering the doghouse panel. remove the right bracket, then you can remove the blanket without tearing it... (It may already be torn).. now you will see metal doghouse cover, it has about (12) 10mm headed bolts, remove them. there is a row of bolts along the bottom edge, press down on the rubber floor mat to expose them. the cover is glued in place, so a small pry bar may be needed to get it out. now you will see the back of the valve cover, head and engine.. there are 4 plugs that are the same. Cam sensor, Crank sensor, EGR valve and the 7th injector. The cam sensor is in the right side rear corner, its hiding back there, the crank sensor is at the top of the flywheel housing, it too is hiding.. Swap the plugs, and crank the truck. if it fires right up, you got it. run it up to Op. Temp to check it out. if its good.. put it back together... jojo
  19. I guess im too late... great selection... jojo
  20. if you havent pulled the cover before, let me know, i will walk you through it... 30 minute job.. jojo
  21. pull the dog house cover and switch the cam sensor plug with the flywheel sensor plug.. they are the same type.. If the truck runs good but sounds rattly that is probably what it is. I have been there before.. jojo
  22. I would love to see pic's.. I just recieved a Midliner book today. I want to fill my cabinet with Mack books.. jojo
  23. this is interesting... I have wondered what was done if an MP head was machined.. Because of the cam gear meshing in the back of the engine.. There is only .004" backlash allowed. so how would you account for that? thicker head gasket? I dont know, seems to me a new head would be the answer.. what do you think? jojo
  24. You put in a hell of an effort.. Been where you are a few times.. Good luck... Jojo
  25. Blacky,, you are responding to a 6 year old post.... what is your issue? To start, get a friend to look at the VGT actuator on the turbo. Then crank the truck and build up air pressure, you should see the actuator move, If not, got to the filter that is at the bottom of the engine on the left side in front of the starter... that little filter is for the turbo, and you need to be sure air pressure is there,,.. there is a small knob on the air lines at the fire wall near the steering column/shaft, it is the supply to the VGT controller.. jojo
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