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Joey Mack

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Joey Mack

  1. Sounds right to me.. Mech...
  2. Washer # 297KB220... Bolt # 3AX 1803 https://photos.app.goo.gl/LcebgPb6CE2u56bp6
  3. bolt # is 3AX 1803,, cant remember the washer, I guess it is the 2'' diam. by about 7/8'' thick. I am going out to my parts pile to see if I can get a part number for the washer.
  4. Vinny .. Meet mechohaulic.. Mech, i think his truck was NOT speced with transverse torque rods, so 'twist' controll is up to the saddles and bolster boxes.. I never could understand why those torque arms werent install on ALL vocational and off road trucks... grocery getters need not apply..
  5. yep, its moving.. do both sides do the same thing?
  6. i looked at the picture again, are the 'Twinkies' instaled inside the bolster boxes at the spring tips? you can look inside to see if they are there.
  7. I bet we knew Vinny, all good.. my guess is you are nearing your whit's end?
  8. I worked at a Mack shop that had a hydraulic torque wrench. It was great ! you could do them on or off the truck.
  9. Exactly !!
  10. just put YOUR eyes on the trunnion ends.. the bottom side gets ground down and will have a rough surface. it wont be flat, but it will be obvious. please post pictures for us to give opinions on.. Jojo
  11. the trunnion bar is probably flat on the bottom where the saddle goes. your wasting your money if the trunion is not replaced. Axle Surgeon can cut the old bar out and weld in a new one, provided the 'A-Frame' is not rusted through or cracking at the top inside the frame, where the 3'' holes are for air lines and wires. to pass through.. Not sure of todays price, but 10 years ago it was $1,500.00 parts and labor, you hand to strip the spring packs off and have the truck on stands for them to do the job.
  12. mech, I made that copy from an older Mack suspension book, 25 years ago.. I didnt know anything back then..
  13. I cant say that I have ever used that updated saddle. how much wear is there on the spring leaves? I guess if it fits snug, then the springs should stay in line.. do you have 7/8'' diameter u-bolts? here is a chart that I copied decades ago. hope it helps..
  14. I guess after 20+ years working hard on Mack's and having to get them back to work... I woulld work extra hard to make a tool in a jiffy to get the job done.. Nothing ''hack'' about that..
  15. Mech... I called for you on this.. Paul posted,, look back, youll see.. at the same time I said to ME,, dumba$$ 20 guys here know about this.... I was doing damage control..
  16. after using bent flat stock for these and king pins... I bought the sockets.. when you have to get it doen you make it happen...
  17. Mech... you missed what I posted first..
  18. '04 granite,, I say a T-310.... or M L.R.
  19. Bud, That is awesome ! I never used one, but would like to see it in action.. I have the Kent Moore tool, but I really like that there is a cost effective way to get the same resullts..
  20. there is a small shaft that operates the range shuttle valve.. in the olden days you didnt pre-select the range, you would go to 'N' then range shift. then shift the lever normal way. ( I am a Double Clutcher) .. this set up allows pre-selection, and when the shift rails ar in 'N' the shuttle valve sends air to the rang shift cylinder. Long winded, I know, but this info may help. if the 'rod' is not functionung right, you likely will 'clash' the gears upon range shift..
  21. Thanks Paul, I was just thinking about fixin' my post.. I know that there are many with the knowledge on these pitman arm's.. Please forgive me??
  22. I say, never mind trying to by parts... take it apart first, clean the grease out and the threads of any rust and grit. if nothing shows dramatic wear, and if the spring is not compressed or broken, screw it back to gather, I bet it will tighten up then grease it... Guys,, what say you?? Jojo
  23. yep, I missed it.. it's full mechanical..
  24. of course I i dont know if its full mechanical or has the electric gov. housing.. I may have missed that.. we will see..
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