Joey Mack

Im no expert either... I still enjoyed youre posts and pics.. I learn something here from every posting... jojo

Vlad, isnt the name on the side of the truck i posted, what you are saying about Mack Built firetrucks... It's a 505-A... A 505 pumper on an 'A' model chassis? (1952) jojo

I dont have a lot of knowledge on them. I was just lucky enough to be asked to drive this one, so I read a little bit about it.. It still has the data plate on it, but I dont have a picture... However..... GADave has a picture of the data plate.. jojo

looks like the exh. is at the top.. try swapping the exh fitting with the fitting in the side port. then test it, you can put shop air to the truck, and cycle the key to get air to flow.. jojo

Ok, guys... Forgive me, I understand that a small air leak at the reversing relay is normal, but I'm not clear about when it gets it's pressure. I believe it gets air when the brakes are released... (Yellow Button in)? jojo

Welcome to the crew... Jojo

Here are some pics of a 1952 'A' Model that I drove to a firetruck show last year.. jojo

Heres the last one I was working on.. You cant see my work, because it was , Engine, clutch and tranny, all suspension, and I wired the truck from the buss bars under the hood, to the tail lights. I did tune the engine and fix the engine brake, (E-9) 500... This was last May.. 2 months ago he blew the engine. its now in Pennsylvania, at a shop with an E-9 Guy.. jojo

Im waiting for him to tell me to rebuild it.... It runs great, I supported re-sealing every thing, the color will be red and black when its done.. He has a crew of talented guys that do these resto's for him. I'm proud to be part of it. I dont know how to paint, and my fab skills are ok, but the guy in the picture is one hell of a welder and fab guy. jojo

Of course after I did all this..... the owner says... pull the injection pump and nozzles and get them rebuilt... 🤣😂🤑

Heres my 'current' part in this project.. I wont go back until the injection pump is done, and hopefully an exhaust manifold will show up by then. Then I can get this done... I wish we would have pulled the engine and put it on the rotator stand that they have..jojo

I guess so. I drove 4 hours to get this truck, then drove it back.. good runner, needed a bearing in the tranny, and an alignment, but is reallydrove good. For the life of me, I dont know why the owner had hid 'fab' guys cut it up to make a single 'x' with a tag axle, gonna be a dump truck..

the knurled knob is exh. it unscrews. in rare cases I have seen them plumbed wrong. i beleive, that when you switch the supply line with the exh. port, you change the way the switch operates. usually the exh. port is in the side port, and supply in the top, delivery to the fan out the bottom. jojo

And theres nothing you can do about it either.. Its a strange feeling and sound... jojo

the control valve on the radiator frame uses 12 volts to unlock the fan ( air pressure needs to be above 90). when you take power away, and air pressure is up, the fan will lock. The fan control valve have 3 ports for air. 1 is air 'in' another is air 'out' and the other is exhaust. a black knurled looking knob. I believe air goes in the top, out the bottom to the fan, down to the bottom of the fan shroud, then up to the fan clutch. The valve has 2 positons for plumbing. 'normally open' and 'normally closed' is it installed correctly? I will try to find the wire diagram for youre older CH. for some reason I dont recall the sensor in the front manifold. I always see 2 sensors in the rear manifold, one facing the firewall and one on the side facing left. I'm curious about the wiring at the rear of the engine, as to what wires were cut or changed... jojo

I believe 1-4 is 'ambient air temp sensor' 4-1 is the speed sensor in the tranny tail shaft. I see you took an EUP apart, I dont know any one who has the 5 pointed torx bits that I have, too funny... Mack has a repair kit for that.. as far as getting fuel to bleed out of the lines at the head, it shouldnt be hard to do, loosen real good, pump hand primer til it bleeds, lock it down, go on to the next. Check voltage at fuse 41 while cranking the engine, if it gets below 10 volts, the EECM wont fire the EUP's.. so for now keep it simple, if voltage is low, I have a trick for that.. Jojo

its funny how those sparks know how to aim for youre ear,, it happened to me several times, and I still dont use ear plugs.. jojo

https://newsmanuals.com/download/mack-iii-8-211-v-service-manual/

I wish I knew MR's like I do CH,RD,Cl ect.. fuse 41 is the EECU fuse in the trucks I know, 25amp, check your's... jojo

great postings, JoeH... jojo

grounds......

ok.... 9-2 code is a bitch but simple to start with... clean all grounds,, dash panel grounds, starter ground, engine block ground, left side in front if the starter), frame ground, behind left steer tire, the ground breaker,, jojo

do you have any 8-? codes present? 8-1 through 6 is the EUP's.. 8-9 is basically all of them faulting.. jojo

well if you had fuel bleed at 4 of them , thats enough.. when the engine starts just hold the throttle down a little and wait for it to clear out, it will!..jojo

No ether!!!! loosen at least 2 fuel lines at the head, they are tough so pull on them... 2 turns is enough.. then pump the hand primer until fuel/ air bleeds out. lock that one down, pump again til the next one bleeds then lock it down... youre done.... the cam sensor does have a teardrop shim, however this engine will start and run on either sensor, but wont run good.. check the wires in the sensor plugs and make sure they are healthy.. the one in the flywheel housing is always in bad shape.. make sure the wires arent frayed or brokken, follow it up the loom to find the break, pull gently and hope for a break.. then fix it... jojo