Joey Mack

I'm in Salisbury..

I forget stuff that I have done many time's,, when I post 'here' I start out ready type a repsonse, and then 3/4 of the way through, I may just forget.... that's when I ask for youre opinion, and a few others here too.. jojo

I recently installed some metal bushings in a few units. AutoMann brand... I believe, however I see the Euclid part info was posted... 👍

with the cam sensor out and flywheel sensor in, the engine does not start... I would look at the wires to the flywheel sensor, follow it as far as you can and gently tug the wire, hope fully it will break somewhere easy to reach and you can solder it back together. also, the plug on the truck side could be dirty, and/or have bad pins in it. it is close to the ground and gets stuff slung onto it from the steer tire, plus whatever the engine leaks out gets on it too... Lot's of great info in this thread... I'm sure the answer is already posted. let us know.. jojo

this idea I have may only prove flywheel orientation if it is not machined correctly. if you pull the rpm/tdc sensor out of the fly wheel housing there should be 2 trimmed flywheel teeth there, in the hole. I hope I recall this correctly? it's been a long time..

ok, I'm not trying to build a mountain out of a molehill here, but if you have a concern about the ring gear, you may need to pull #1 injector and dial indicate TDC, then look at the flywheel through the small inspection cover to see if it is at "0" . I just set the engine to #1 first, then back it up a bit and then come forward to check this... I can only remember a couple of times where the ring gear was out of 'time' jojo

all the way in till touching then 1 turn out... sorry onyx.. no dissrespect. on the rpm/tdc sensor for the cam,, pull the teardrop shim out and put it in youre pocket,, run the truck.... another thing.... this engine will run on one or the other speed sensor's but it it will run like crap and start hard... so... un-plug 1 of the sensors, cam or flywheel... crank the truck... if it starts, basically the plugged in sensor is good... then swap.... plug the sensor back in and unplug the other one, crank the truck... if it doesnt run..... the plugged in sensor has the issue... basic shade tree way to check... Ive done this many times..... no laptop needed.... jojo

ok... Thanks even though iv'e worked in the dealerships for 10years, I forget some thing's... jojo

Hi 880 Joe.... I thought CCRS came out in 02-03.? Mo biggie, just asking.... jojo

Just want to post something because I'm at 1,666 post's... Biden Is destroying our country..... The End....jojo

the o-rings are easy to buy... how corroated is the cover? if it's not salt damaged, just drain the top reduction, pull the cover, remove the o-ring in one piece, (hopefully). clean the groove, clean the opening of the carrier, clean the o-ring and rub it down with Mack gray RTV or Permatex ultra black, and put it back together, put a dot of RTV on the 4 bolt's. then put new gear oil in the side plug. this will also give you the chance to inspect the gear set and clean the magnetic tray.. jojo

for sure.....

The 400 seem's right, but I thought you have to change the cam key for timing? (Advanced) to go to 427 and up?... Some others will add to this... There's nothing wrong with the 400... it pulls great...Jojo

Ricky.... there is so much knowledge here, it's crazy.. I like these threads for a bunch of reason's. One big one is that I get to learn a different way to look at truck's that I have been around for more than 20 year's, I always learn something here, (Not saying I was a know-it-all before).. What I learn here makes me better, when I'm serving my customers... Jojo

Well I just saw all the pic's... nice truck, minor repairs to do, the trunnion cap doesnt looked cracked, that's a good thing. the missing indicater may be High beam or Park brake light, I'm excited for you, Those trucks are great... jojo

burnt coolant trails on the side of the engine block, is one way,,,

good luck Ricky... You can't go wrong with the RD 690S... It will be an adjustment as far as driving it, but that is one tough truck. I have driven many of them and the repairs were usually thing's like camel back box rubbers and regular wear items, A clutch here and there, and sometimes re-seal or replace a carrier, Mabey a set of torque arms, but as hard as these trucks can work, no biggie. The E-tech is a good engine with a very simple computer system compared to todays truck's, and can be repaired by a good mechanic. there are some specific tools to do engine work, but they are readily available. I have bought many of them. (I can point you to the tool vendors in the future)... Then if programming is needed, you can take it to a dealer if you can find one that know's how to use Mack software. I set up one of my customers with a laptop/ Vocomm box/ and P.T.T....( around $2500.00+) and I can do almost everything with it, to their older Mack's... jojo

Amen Mark...

yes, but youll get it.. I double clutch, I get grief for being a school boy driver. well, after 24 years, i dont care.. it works for me and i can shift smoother.. however, an Eaton is easy to shift without the clutch. it's all in youre skill set and time in the seat... no biggie, as long as you are not trashing the drive line and clutch... jojo

with the price of trucks today, do you buy an older one and try to build what you want. I wish I knew the answer...

the T300 is a smoother shifting tranny, with shorter gears.. as you know. It would be cool if you had access to a 7 speed for practice to see if you like it.. When I drive them, I count in my head, 1-1000,, 2-1000, shift. I double clutch so so when I come out of gear I say 1-1000, (nuetral) 2-1000 into next gear... it's silly but it works for me,,, then after a few minutes i'm back to having a decent rhythm I still scrape a gear here and there. The blue button on the shifter for the 7spd. is for low and low-low. you start in low-low, then go to low. if you need to use low range. then when you change the range you have to flip the blue button up as you pass through nuetral, because it is not synchronized... like the 9 spd. you have...

the seven speed is a tough tranny. but patience is needed to drive it. they do not shift as smooth as an Eaton and the time between gears is long. that tranny is a 2070... probably has 4:17 or 4:42 rears.. it's a strong combo, just slow.. I dont mind 'slow' it's a truck.. jojo

Tough one to answer because of the un-known's.. I guess if the seller would allow you to drain a little gear and tranny oil(before the truck is cranked/moved) into a clean pan through a small kitchen strainer to look for chunk's, and oil condition, you can take it from there. I have seen many of these trucks with over 1 million. it ay be hard to get good maintenance records, because the truck may have been owned by several people.. I hope some more opinion's are posted... jojo

here are the fuse legend's... A little hard to read, my hands were dirty when i made these copies in a hurry... jojo

it's basically were the wires make a change in direction, like through a switch or relay or module.. I'm a little rusty, but that;s the best way I can explain it. the pin # and ECU plug # will stay the same on the circuit, for example EJ1 26, is Engine module, J1 plug/connector pin 26.. or VJ1 12, is Vehicle ECU connector J1 pin 12.. I'm sorry if I'm not making sense, it's hard for me to type this, it would be easier if we were together looking at it.. jojo