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Joey Mack

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Joey Mack

  1. this is the latest addition to my Mack engine cabinet,, I used it this week and it is great.. I have used these at Mack dealerships many times, and now I own one.. I have almost every needed tool to build E-Tech's.. just a few more to get.. no biggie, the Hi dollar ones are in my shop.. jojo
  2. did the engine survive?
  3. you said power is at the clutch switch.. do you hear the clutch switch click when you work it by hand, did you probe for power on the output side to see if power is going through the switch? when you cycle it by hand... jojo
  4. this issue, should be a simple repair,, I dont want to post too many pics and info, and turn this into a 'Sh!tshow'.. jojo
  5. I do, but it is too big to photograph, then post..
  6. ok, an easy test is to warm the engine above 125 degree's take a test light and probe the plug and ground it to the engine. place it so you can see it from the big seat... switch the eng brake to high, rev, it up high and let off, it should light. do it to both plugs.
  7. see if this diagram helps. its for 'r' models.. you didnt post the chassis model..jojo
  8. im guessing it is a drive axle, you should be able to look inside to see if its an insert.. im curious... jojo
  9. if this was done by an axle repair company, then it should be a replacement spindle that is inserted into the axle housing, (rear or trailer).. if you see 2 plug welds about 6 inches back, I would say its an insert.. they typically cut the bad spindle of, then machine the tube, before fitting the axle insert, they also drill 2 holes in the tube if there is not a set bolt, then they weld it as shown, then plug weld the holes to the insert.. if this is just a butted up weld,,, dont use it.. like the other guys said.. jojo
  10. they have several functions. some signal the lights some the cruise control, some the air gauges, some for the low air buzzer, this is what you need to study and learn about... I suggest Ebay for a book. or find a svc manual download.. sorry bud.. i hope an MR Guru shows up to help you... jojo
  11. because I suck at MR's... i would be opening that panel, exposing the air switches, fill the air tanks , and mash the brake pedal, than loosen 1 air switch at a time till I found the ones that have pedal pressure on them.. if its a leaker,, put the shop compressor on it if running the engine is too noisy... just saying... sometime I have to be a boyscout if i dont know the truck by 'heart'..... jojo
  12. gosh,, i have forgotten a lot about MR's.. is there a bank of air switches above the pedals? I'm sorry.. i think there are also air switches in the center console.. the intermittent issue to me is a loose connection rather than a pressure switch.. jojo
  13. Destroy Back Worse..... Isn't that the name of the Economic plan? I may be wrong, let me check my note's... I'll have 'My People' get back to you... jojo
  14. yes and the EPDM behind the panel next to the clutch pedal,, jojo
  15. the fluctuation at idle, may be the fuel pressure regulator.. I cant tell if one was installed, also did you have a 3-2 or 3-4 code? jojo
  16. Glad you posted the issue.. sorry that its gonna cost so much.. Jojo
  17. in the box under the hood is the fuse for the ecm. #40 or 41... typically in the middle of the middle row. there is also an accessory relay next to the fuse panel in the cab, it looks like a black square cube, I dont remember the # of the socket.. when you say speed sensor's, do you mean the crankshaft and the cam sensor's? jojo
  18. do you have a huge turbo and the stainless steel pipe that goes over the top of the engine? that pipe has 2 probes in it.. jojo
  19. I have to go now..
  20. I dont support deletes, they only cause big trouble later,, and I still dont know what engine you have.... aset-c or aset-i??? not enough info,and dont know what you are trying to accomplish...
  21. it is in the EECU, PTT is used to go in and check codes, do diagnostics/repairs, and you set the governor there as well....
  22. fuel filters, re-run the valve's, change governor setting to 'allspeed'.. if you have the big turbo, make sure the VGT actuator moves properly, replace the air filter for the VGT... clear out all MID128 codes... jojo
  23. I would re-run the rack..... Start on #1, and DO NOT deviate from the way Mack lays it out... Did you set the bridges to .010"? do you have an engine brake? lash on that will be .017" or .021" if it was updated... jojo
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