Joey Mack

Glenn,,, I am currently building my first ENDT 673... Ive built a few E-7's and a bunch of E-tech's of all series'... I will use this post for info, because if I remember right, the push rods do not have oil holes in the ends.. so it makes sense to me, if someone would add an oiling system to keep the top lubed with an extra flow of oil... I may add this to the engine... was there any issues with too much oil being delivered to the heads, and it pushed out of the breather? Thanks Glenn, Jojo

very good... no sweat.... there are so many people here that will help you, myself included.. the truck you have is a good one. the engine you have is pretty good too. "V" had a good idea about fuel pressure... I always talk about ground wires.. so here's a small lesson... open the fuse cover on the right dash board, look at the cab frame and you will see a 10mm bolt head, its a ground, clean all of the eyelets and the frame, do the sane thing behind the instrument cluster at the bottom left corner of the cab frame is another 10mm bolt head, clean it, then go to the firewall below the left windshield and clean the ground breaker contacts. it's the black relay next to the starter relay, it has black wires going to it, the left side of the engine midway in front of the starter, is a 15/16" headed bolt, remove it and clean all the eyelets and the bolt and the block, it is a main ground, then follow the cable to the frame 1 foot away and clean the frame ground, its 15mm bolt head, its behind the steer tire... get these grounds cleaned really good, and start over, also check fuse #40 in the fuse box under the hood by the steering shaft, make sure it is clean and tight in the socket and 25-30 amps. these are some basic checks that I do even if a 9-2 code is not present... good luck, Jojo

have you checked???? ALL.... of your fluid levels?? Have you checked all of the ground connections on the truck.? hell.... is the idle shut down setting turned on? get it turned off..... or if youre in the seat, when the light comes on, tap the throttle or push the clutch once.... you may have a 5 minute shutdown setting... My guess is this is either youre first Mack, or youre first truck... No problem if it is.... Jojo

no spacer, you either dont have engine brakes or you have powerleash. the wire plug into the valvr cover on the left side's around cyl. #2 + #5.. "V" has a good point about fuel pressure.. put a gauge on the fuel outlet in the block and read it, 60-100 psi.... the wires for the engine brake run behind the water manifolds, and has a 90 degree plug end on it that plugs onto a small post that sticks out of the valve cover, or spacer depending on the engine you have.. jump up there and take a look... pics. would be helpful.. for engine brake I.D. the rough running part can be many things... More guys will comment on this, so do youre best to be specific about the symptoms,, keep in touch, jojo

the data plate is on the top of the front valve cover. is there a spacer under the valve cover?

the lower exhaust bollt are open into the pushrod bores,, when they are not sealed good or just old, they bleed oil. the engine brake wires are on the left side above the intake manifold. 2 wires total.

does it run poorly, whether the engine brake switch is on or off? just curiuos,,, is there a 2" spacer under the valve cover and the jake wire plugs into it, or is it just a valve cover and the wire plugs into it?

gosh,,,, powerleash celenoids have an o-ring in the base, when it fails it can cause the engine to run rough, same if it is not installed correctly. How familiar are you with Mack engine brake heads?

no... has there been any top end work done recently? so do you have power leash or jacobs engine brakes?

when you get the 2 digit codes, look em up, or ask us...

if the lightning bolt is on, use the cruise control buttons to retrieve the code... ?-? will be the code... ie: 8-1,,, to do it..... cruise button off, then push down on the speed button and release, and the codes will start flashing.. have a pen and paper ready first... jojo

2 engine codes with low/ open circuits,,, I dont know what 5079+5080 are... did you search the web for the answer?

Hell yeah... you got this... jojo

very good.. Just a thing here that I was taught by an old timer... To be sure you are 'up' on #1..... the Exh. rocker on #2 will be 'Rocked' ( pushing down)..... That s how I know I'm right.. I am not saying that my way is the only way, but...... my way works..... Jojo

If I may??? do you know how to run the rack properly?? No dissrespect here.. jojo

and it may very well be a blown int. or exh. gasket... but still... when you found the EUP issues, you truly beat the devil before he showed his horn's..... I feel like youre approach for this issue is pretty good. I'm sure others will agree... jojo

just for kicks, take the belts off of the engine when engine temp is at the point when the noise is there,,, cold or hot... run it for a few minutes and listen... jojo

Good luck Vlad, let us know if the tire balancer idea worked for 'checking' balance.. jojo

the pointer is in a different direction, I expect the orientation of the timing marks to be different. I'm sorry I do not have a diffinative answer. this is not something I have done, i've only ever used the correct pointer for the engine.... Jojo

Thanks, the hubs are tapered to fit wheels that fit small cars, isnt the hole in the balancer about 2 1/2" ? similar to a hub on the front of a 2WD pick-up for example.. anyway, we may find out soon.. jojo

Well Vlad,,, I tried for a half hour to find an E-6 balancer. there is one listed on E-Bay, here in the states, but it looked rough. I was wondering if you took it to a tire shop and have them chuck it up in a tire spin balancer and run it a few times to see if it's out of balance? Just a thought... jojo

yes sir.. the 'Stand' pipe update for the compressor head. we removed the steel tube and nut's with the rubber ferrels in them and replaced it with a #6 JIC stand pipe that went about 3" into the block, in the case casting sand was still not flushed out, the end of the pipe would be above the sand sediment. and we made a short hose to the compressor and replaced the fitting in the compressor head... jojo

the engine will run good,, but we were always taught to enter the codes, especialy when changing several of them... I also beleive it is required for warranty, of course, Warranty is just a word, and rarely ever an action.. ...jojo

I expect that you will record the serial numbers and calibration codes on each EUP/Cyl. and have Mack program them into the EECU?,, jojo

👍