Joey Mack

I doubt it... do you idle the truck for long periods of time without raising the idle to about 800 RPM's?

take a look at the top right corner of the C.A.C. right where the core and side tank seem/joint is... do you have a way to remove the boot on the turbo and put 20 PSI into the C.A.C.? maybe use a p.v.c. pipe cap that is the same size as the inside diameter as the C.A.C. boot on the turbo, and drill and tap a 1/4 n.p.t. hole in it for a fitting and put shop air to it using a regulator.. use a really good clamp to hold the plug in the boot... it can pop out and hurt you or break something on the truck. My tester has small cables to hook to the truck in the case it pops out under pressure.. then you can check the C.A.C., boots, pipes, and intake gaskets, with Windex.. Jojo

Yep...

an e-7 or e-tech manifold will bolt right on, i'm not sure how well it will run because youre turbo is connected to the computer., as well as the output temp sensor in the CAC pipe and the EGR valve and the cross over pipe with the 2 probes in it and the EECU is different, the VGT module is also on-line, and so on... and I believe the cam has different exhaust lobes to accommodate the EGR system. check cam part numbers against an ASET-I to see if the part numbers are the same. I have only ever built stock mack engines without any funny business... I see so many posts about doing mod's, that I wish I knew more about mod's... BTW,,, how is the exh. man. warped? it's 3 pieces and i cant imagine it being warped... anyway, I expect to learn something on this thread... Jojo

I work everyday, just not on my stuff... the pic's are older. I have driven the truck around the hood, but not to the grocery store yet... Luv ya. Jojo

the 45 degree fitting is the pressure regulator... some of the originals have the press rating stamped in them, and say 80 PSI... put a new version in it. it will be a 100 PSI regulator.... I was vague about the return line earlier... i was thinking about the 1/4" line, and not about the #6 line with the JIC fittings, Sorry, Jojo

F.Y.I. there is a place to post non-macks. it's called Other Truck Makes... no biggie,,, we all love old trucks... jojo

I have one too, and posted it proudly. I need to get back to workin on it. I have all new glass for it. need to get it installed...

so true....

did Tedds confirmed cause turn ot to be the problem? It would be good to have the repair posted for future users... thank's Jojo

I have built 2 engines with PAI kits. the engine kit contents are better than Mack's kit... i have measured the liners, length, O.D. and I.D. with my mic's.. they were "spot-on". I mic'd the pistons, rings etc... all part's spec'd out fine... Hell, the kit's even came with new piston cooling tube's and ball's... One that I built was a '90 E-7 mechanical, the other was an '05 ASET-I...The '90 is running great after 18 months, the ASET is six months old and doin what a Mack need's to do... I will certainly use these kit's again... When you build the engine, take all of the normal measurement's on the block, and machine it as needed, ie: cutting counterbores and decking.. I also have used P.A.I. heads. 👍.. I hope that other's offer thier opinion's.. I'm not a Guru with these kit's, just have had success...and the cost is about 1/3rd less if not a bit more.. Jojo

Sorry, but when you are done ..... you will have one hell of an engine.. jojo

pressure should stay steady at around 100... 80 is ok, but 'steady' is key...the pressure drop/change may be the regulator in the pump. I think it's in the pump because you may not have a fuel return line coming out of the block around #4... My guess is the fuel lift pump is in the filter assembly inside the right front corner of the engine... jojo

In Mack Software, there is a function to do a throttle pedal calibration/re-set.. I think the code it throw's is 6-5... Do you have access to the software? Jojo

good deal, which harness? just curious, in case someone ask's again. Jojo

Go Pat's!!!!!!!!!!!!

jack it up, remove the wheel, set the steering column to the side, if you pull it out, mark it in the cab at the slip joint, remove the alternator, and radiator support and C.A.C. pipe, the pitman arm can be knocked off with a sledge hammer, but you will beat the hell out of it. I suggest getting a pitman arm puller to remove the pitman arm. I have made an allen wrench using a 1/2' bolt and putting 2 nuts on it and welding it together then using a breaker bar and socket to remove the pitman arm nut, there are tabs that need to be bent out of the slots before you remove it. yours may have a 9/16th allen head, so do the same idea with a grade 8 3/8th bolt, unless you own large allen sockets...then use a small engine crane, and pull it..... it's just labor, I hope I didn't leave out anything..... jojo

top triangular panel on the dash,,, under the C.B. jojo

the injection pump may be the issue, myself.... I would run the rack, then drive it to duplicate the problem, if it's still there after that, I use a temperature gun to see if there is a big difference in exhaust port temps... im talking 30+ degrees difference. you can also crack fuel lines individually to see if the engine changes sound. As you listen, if a cylinder doesnt react like the others, then ... good chance you have isolated the problem/symptom... Jojo

good to see you Dave.... Jojo🤗 Thanks for the laugh's....

sounds like programming... the governor can be set to "all-speed" and it should perk up the throttle response, you have a great truck and the mileage is hard to believe... check fuel pressure and the condition of the fuel lines... at that age the lines are probably hard as a rock and need to be replaced... have you installed fresh fuel filters? lot's of Q's.... jojo

looks like you may need to replace the braided lines... they may have broken inside and created a blockage/restriction... by the way, everything but free government money is on back order. Keep it in mind for future repairs... I had to add 6 weeks to an engine that i'm building in my shop... in the olden days, (2-4 years ago) it would have been done by now.... keep in touch... Jojo

did you fit the pin into the axle beam to check for wear, before assembly? jojo

look at the back of the switch ... some of these switches have 3 post's on them, 'common' ... 'normally open'....'normally closed' move the wire eyelet to NC, ... jojo

there are grounds on the frame behind the left steer tire. they go to the block, in front of the starter. there should be a ground breaker on the firewall next to the starter relay, it's black and about 2" in diameter. the EECU fuse # is 40, it's in the epdm/fuse box that is next to the steering shaft under the hood... make sure it's clean and tightly in the socket... jojo