Joey Mack

keep an eye on the spring leaves, as you use it,, its a good set up, but leaves can break.. im not full of knowlegde but have made a few repairs, camel back is better but, that is opinion/bias based on my part... like any supspension , keep it as 'new' as you can afford.... jojo

just adding to my post here,, not sure if you are familiar with how this tranny as well as others are built.... so, if the bell housing runs loose, it stresses the in-put shaft, which puts stress on the pilot bearing, clutch discs, and input and spigot bearing on the tranny input shaft, it can also put an angle ( if wear is excessive) on the input gear(4th/9th gear), which will be noisy. The next gear in the input hole is (5th/10th). if you get this far, pull the sliding clutch out and make sure the clutching teeth have a straight edge on the end, if the teeth are diamond shaped, replace it. a lot of times the speed gears will survive and can be re-used... there will be more comments coming on this, youre in good hands, Jojo

OK... now new info..... the bell housing has a flange around it... if the tranny has run loose, it wears the flange, and affects the alignment of the tranny input shaft... it's real.... The problem is that youre tranny has an integrated bell housing, un-like an Eaton. I've been here... you will pay hell to keep the tranny in-line, if the holes and flange are wollered out... the bolts are 10mmx1.50 .torque to 70+ I have installed helicoils.. it helps but the flange is the key for alignment... sorry for this bad news... I hope it's not youre problem... Jojo

BTW.. that tranny may have an oil pump, but it truly splash lube.. This issue, has a lot of options for the problem. we will get there.... 👍 jojo

that tranny was born with 75/90 synthetic.... 50 is for eatons... hell, have you checked the u-joints.? and , yes... check the bolts on the bell housing.

Fuel Pressure........................... 80- 100 PSI. jojo

4th/5th....9th/10. are the same gears...

just a thought... check the valve lash..... seem's odd,, how long has it been sitting? how long have you had the truck, and what do you know about repair history? That engine is a tough S.O.B. I saw one run with a rod through the block, it loaded itself on and off the trailer to the shop... ether is a bad tool/drug if abused.... ok, look forward to the fix for this one.. Go E-6!! jojo

you got this, if you have a picture of the area you want to use, can you post it? im curious... if not.... thats ok.. jojo

Man... that is awesome!!! Go Dog!!!!

Amen!!

yes the CTP.... forgot that chassis...

truth is, ive set a few at around 1200 due to tooling and room to work... they hold good,,, I've even used a good strong 1" tire gun to set them, of course it was bolted down... and not in the rear end banging against bevel gear,. the high torque resembles the pre-load needed to set the gears in place, as well as holding the outer power divider cam in place... jojo

1500lbft

when you pull the front out, you have the bevel pinion.. the bevel gear is still in the housing on the spur shaft. the top hat cover on the other side is how to get to the bevel gear... they are a matched set and need to be pre-loaded and measured for back lash and tooth pattern... yes you can sort-of milk it, without checking backlash and tooth pattern on the bull gear, but, it's really not the right way to build a lasting carrier. you will also see measurements scribed into the gears... when you buy a new gear SET there will be measurements on them as well.. you can do the math using both measurements to 'roughly' figure the shim pack needed... Mack rears need attention from the inside out to get them right.... just saying... joey

Great Truck and Drive train combo.... The 400 and an 8LL should kick butt... now i'm more curious..... This is when I wish I had owned large fleets, and did more with specs.... I've alway's just fixed'em.... The 8LL is my favorite Non-Mack tranny... as far as codes..... it's not about codes.... My thought's are, what are the parameters set too? you may just need to flip a couple E.E.C.U. switches.... I have done this many times, but since Volvo took over, they have "Dumbed Down" the Mack guy's ... who, in your'e area, has Mack Software? Hell someone with an old Pro-link 9000 could look at it... if they have the V-mack cards.. jojo

06' was the last of the E-tech's. ASET series, Internal EGR or Cooled EGR. The MP-7 came out in full force after that. There was an MP-7 introduced in 2004, I think it was also in CV chassis'... We called it the 'Bastard' truck at the dealership.. I guess I was curious, because I have a few ideas for the ASET but none for the MP... I've been trying to erase MP's from my brain.. jojo

I dont know what a Stienbauer Mariel is, but I was wondering if there are E.E.C.U. settings that need to be changed. Like a torque limiter, or a governor setting, . Do have access to Mack software, so you can check the "settings" and "preferences" that are turned on in the E.E.C.U.? Do you know the repair history of the engine, IE: cam job, E.C.U. replacement, turbo, injectors, I recently put injectors in an AC 427, using the v.i.n., only to find out later that the engine was not original. so I had Mack use the 11GBA # , and sure enough, they were the wrong injectors for that engine... anyway, I expect you are rulling out the simple things first, Keep in touch.. There are many smart people here... Joey

yes but the year say's MP........ just curiuos.... 👍

what color is the engine?

I forgot to add..... what I have done to the metal fender post, is weld a 3"x3" piece of flat stock to the end that mounts to the frame, drill the 5/8" hole in the center, then mount it.. this will help keep the post from loosening up over time... jojo

you can use a bolt in front of the spring hanger, The 1/4 fender can be moved to a spot where it functions and doesnt get hit with the trailer. mabey get a fender kit that requires you to drill the holes for the fender, or just drill your own .. some of the plastic fenders are all one piece and cant be modified easily... jojo

the wire harness is a small one, and it runs over the left frame rail under the cab. I have replaced these due to them chaffing where it goes over the frame edge. its costs under $150.00 3 years ago when I did the last one... jojo

at one point I had the c.a.c. out of the truck. My guess is one of the body shop people put a rag over the c.a.c. pipe and then mabey someone else jumped in and fired it up... But still no-one is speaking up, of course all of the other guys don't speak english very well... just glad no one is chewing me a new A-Hole... The heads are at a machine shop getting a valve job... It's all good..... Joey

damn.... this one went to paint 2 months ago with the hood off, ??Hhmm.. jojo