Joey Mack

I was wondering if youre Midliner has a steel pipe coming from the air compressor output/disscharge port.. Its been a while since I worked on one of those neat little cabovers.. if you have a metal pipe it may be clogged with carbon.. pics would be cool.... jojo

How about taking the dash panel off and following it from the gauge to where it goes through the firewall, my best guess is it goes to one of the buss bars on the top left corner of the firewall.. there should be 2 wires at the sending unit, one is a ground... jojo

Hey bud, 6-4 is a communication code for the 1939 line... it's the yellow and green 'twisted pair'.. check the pin condition and tension at the VECU, and at the Diagnostic port, under the dash above the clutch pedal.. check voltage at these 2 pins,, low side is about 2.5 volts and high line is about 5+ volts... I dont remember the exact volts but im pretty close.. there is also a triangular duetch plug on the firewall along with the many harness's near where the steering shaft comes out of the wall.. I know you said you can kick the panel and it changes the truck.. so maybe you missed something during inspection.. jojo

If he has Jacob's 690 head, the lash was changed to .021".. From .017" after a top oil feed update was done and the reset screws in the bridges were replaced with the 'Armoly' screws, and the check valve under the jake head was removed and replaced with the little screw in check valve. If these are not done then lash is .017" .. even after all of these updates, the engine brake still sucked, just not as bad. next: If you have "powerleash" you will see the celenoids are clamped directly into the rocker shaft's. they are sealed by 2 orings and the bail's that hold them in is 'it' usually a bad oring will cause the engine brake to operate all the time, however, it wouldnt hurt to check them, the bottom oring will stay in the hole, so you will have to pick it out. with this engine brake set up, the lash adjustment is different than for the 690 heads. Please post which engine brake you have. I assume Jacob's because of youre issue.. jojo P.S. correct bridge clearence adjustment and valve adjustment is really important. you may have pinless intake bridges, so no adjustment needed there..

Thank you to all that tried to help... I found a manifold.. Jojo

one thing that was done that I really like, is that they added a 3rd bolt inside the carrier housing.. jojo

Ricky... you may want to stay in touch on this one.. If the engine and driveline is solid and the frame is right.... It is one of the last real trucks left.. like I said before... I never owned a fleet, just repaired them.. there will be a very smart person here that will school you right.. good luck Ricky... jojo

I am reluctant to speak harshly, however.. yes.. as you know, one wrong move and the valvetrain rattles.. It's over... The truth for me is this... 20+ years ago when I was new and ambitious, I did a cam job on an ASET... Keep in mind, I had already done a bunch of valve adjustments and E-Tech cam's prior..... I rolled the engine up on #1... ran the rack.... cranked it up.. ran like crap and miss fired.. My heart fell into my stomach... I ran the rack starting on #6, not #1.. I went to my boss and told the truth about my F-up... he said "fix it' and dont do it again... 10 hr's later, I put new lifters in it and it purred like a Dog... A hard lesson, but..... It helped make me who I am today... My 2 cent's... jojo

the plastic side cover is real,,, thanks to Volvo.... jojo

so true 'V'... Glad to see you again... missed you... Jojo

"V" is absolutely right!!!!! Jojo

I just looked... no more postings since Monday.. Jojo

I have tried and tried to tell people to use the clutch... I get told that I dont know what im talking about,, I said, when you use the clutch, the flexing action of the pressure plate keeps the clutch clean by letting the dust and rust fly out and the clutch stays limber for lack of a better word.. ive had people tell me that they dont want to wear out thier linkage, and I say, thats what grease is for... lube the linkage and the cross shaft bushings and the throughout bearing till a little grease comes out onto the clutch brake,. that little grease on the clutch brake is the 'fuse' between a working clutch brake and one that is laying in the road somewhere... Jojo

I'm a young'n... 53 this April.. I too keep my class A... never know when I may really need it again... These guys today dont even know how to shift, I took in a truck today that I have driven a few times, and I could'nt change gears in it, because the driver beat the daylights out of it trying to pull it into gear.. I guess the clutch pedal is there for looks.. now I have to pull the shift cover to see what the hell he bent.. It's a metric Eaton 10 speed... FRO15210c.. Simple to drive, but apparently easy to break in this young drivers hands... Mabey the shift rail bolt is loose and I can just put in a new one with green thread lock and be done.. Oh well, I guess I got another paycheck comin'... jojo

I believe when the 200 series trannys came out, that was the end of the PTO on the bottom countershaft. I have worked on a bunch of 100's in the early 2000's.. now not so much.. I did freshen up a TRD 72 for a B-Model that I'm building an ENDT 673 for. but I've had that engine in my shop for over 2 years. They keep taking me off of it and putting me on a Superliner, or something else, like a B-61... and next I have to do a wheel seal in another B-85, and a rear main in a B-61 Tiller Fire truck.. I am so glad to have the opportunity to work on these great machines. I just put an engine harness on a 2009 MP-8...(at my shop) one of many that I have done... I would rather work on the old iron, and bust my knuckles, then to work on a 'Fake' Mack.... jojo

WTF? sad... but true

you da' man....

Good luck !!! Ricky... kick some ass!! jojo

67' I think you are right, I never paved, just hauled and dumped, so I dont know. yes nuetral in the back box, and gear selection in the main box. .. Jojo

ok. when ou said you put a cam in it, I assumed you did the repair, therefore you would have been reading the book for the procedure. OK thats out of the way.. there is a smal inspection cover on the bottom of the flywheel housing. it may be rectangular with 6 little bolts, or round with 2 bolts. remove it... you will see a pointer cast into the housing. you will see the edge of the flywheel, where the timing marks are stamped in pairs... 1&6.... 2&5.... 3&4.. I will stop here, because I need to know how much you know before I write this book.. It is also good to have the 'Barring tool' to rotate the engine,, jojo

Now that Kamala is going to "Oversee" the Ukraine border, mabey a 'real working' government official will go to the southern border and finish the job of securing our country... I think theres a few people in Texas that would be happy to take over,,, just a thought,,, jojo

first.... are you starting on #1? Do you know how to tell if you are on #1?. I see you are trying to check #4.. A valve adjustment on that engine requires checking the bridge clearence first, then the valves then the engine brake in that order.. one cylinder at a time in the firing order. If that engine has ceramic lifters, you have no room for error. please read up on how to do it properly.. I see you did a cam replacement, I assume you have a book.. jojo

Let us not be judged by the color of our skin, but by the content of our character... God please save our great Country... Jojo

I remember trying to shift the range box and the main box to use 7 gears.. It was cool, took a lot of practice, and of course some grinding. but I kept trying even though I was never really needing to do it. I did however use 1st gear low, then shift the range box to high then go through the main box gears, and sometimes I would be in 2nd in the main box and low in the range box, and do the same thing. 2nd lo-2nd Hi, then 3-5.. when I tried to shift 1l-1h then 2l-2h.. I found myself triple clutching.. I was a nut.. No-one trained me on it, I was just self teaching/taught... luckily when I was doing this I had several sand pit's to practice in, and when I messed up, no-one was around.. If I found a twin stick "R" series that I could afford, I would buy it,, just for the heck of it... jojo

If you dont have PTT to tell the 'Light control module' that you fixed it, well,,, there you go.. When a truck can throw a code and E-Mail Sweden to tell them the E.A.T.S. system is F'd up, and the printer at the closet Mack/Vo dealer, get's a work order and schedules it's own repair visit, then directs the driver to go to that location for an "Uptime" repair... You know we are ALL F'd!!!!... MY 2 cent's.... because I can.... Jojo