Joey Mack

what was the most recent repairs???

👍 Nice!!! Stop scratchin..... jojo

since the turbo is liquid cooled, can you remove the turbo exhaust pipe and the output, and pressure test the cooling system to see if coolant is leaking into the turbo? has the coolant level dropped ? Just curious, jojo

END is non-turbo,,,ENDT is with turbo. E-6 2 valves, have a rounded valve cover with 3 bolts down the middle.. this I know, but I think the 4 valve has a different valve cover, and I think production was around 1984,,, til 89'... sorry, a bit rusty... jojo

I read some posts over again, so you have a gray plug at the injection pump??? ok, those can get, bad/loose connections. just a thought. if the pump is not delivering fuel correctly, then boost will be lost..??, just a thought, jojo

yes there is an angular final torque spec... I dont have it in front of me, I thought final torque would be around 180. I may be wrong but I thought there were 12, 16mm bolts, grade 10.9?? .. just hold on and see who responds to what i said, "V" + "F", know this stuff faster than me.... :), jojo

just for sh#ts, you can search PAI but not be able to buy without creating an acct. and so on..... but.... you can get parts numbers and use them to search... try Nick's truck parts.com... anyway, you can get around it and use PAI... jojo......... P.S. big thumbs up on the 1070B 12 spd.. I love that tranny...

assuming you checked fuse,breakers,bulbs, etc.. I have found that where the harness passes thru the P-Clamps toward the front, they will cut into the wires, also look and see if the wire harness runs behind the oil filters and oil cooler along the block and look there for cuts and wear..

I almost forgot.... make sure when you 'barr' the engine over that you pull the ratchet towards the oil pan, thats proper rotation, also, if you go past the mark you are to stop on, back the engine up, 30 degrees past the correct mark, then bring it back around to the correct mark. this will take the lash out of the vale train. jojo

ok... be careful.... how I know I am up on #1 TDC. is: the #2 exhaust rocker is "Rocked" . I always start on #1. You have ceramic rollers in this engine and if you run the valves wrong and start it, and they 'rattle'. the lifters will be cracked. When you are confident that you are up on #1 and ready to go, check the bridge lash with (2) .010" feeler gauges first, I took a regular feeler and ground the edges to make a narrow feeler to fit inside the slot in the exhaust yoke. Press down on the yoke and make sure drag is even on both feelers, its tricky, but doable... adjust as needed, the nut torque is 33lbft. use a back-up wrench or adjustable to hold the yoke when torqueing so you dont stress or brake the yoke pin. ( you should have pinless intake bridges, so this wont be done there) Then you set the engine brake to .045" using the adjuster above the pushrod, leave the .045" feeler in place and set the exh. lash to .024". then intake is .016"... all this is done on the cylinder you are up on. then go to the next cyl. and repeat. you will end on #4.. the other adjuster nuts torque to 45lbft. the engine needs to be colder than 100 degrees.

p.s. make sure there is no oring or debris, inside the bore in the rocker shaft, before replacing, jojo

if you pull them out..... new o-rings... jojo

since its a CL.... there are 5 roof lights, 3 holes each, an air horn or 2 with airline hole and mount bolt holes, 1 factory antenna, 5 pairs of sun visor nutserts, and windshield seals. several places for rain to get in... Just my 2 cents.... Jojo

okay.... just because..... did you remove the engine brake celenoids and see if the orings are bad? you will need to remove the ground wire from the head bolt to unlock the celenoid, no biggie, 13mm wrench... when they are out, look in the hole for debris... rear, but it happens, the orings are crucial.

the dash grounds are easy to see. pull the cluster and look to the left, there is a 6mm bolt with grounds attached. clean the connection, then to the right of the fuse panel there is another one, then on the left side of the engine block , in front of the starter is a big bolt with grounds that go it and across to the frame behind the steer tire, theres also a ground breaker on the firewall next to the starter relay... Now if the gauges are fogging up, how did water get in? are the sunvisor nutserts loose and letting rain inside?

I have a kit I put together years ago, with different fittings. I "T-in" where the regulator comes out of the block. If you have a fuel sensor on the regulator, that is good, because you can put the "T" there and plug the sensor back in so you dont create codes, and read it there. 1/4" NPT threads. I have had success with this approach. Jojo

Hell Yeah!!!

It was easy, popping through the exhaust, and poor revving, and a lot of smoke. I cooled it off and ran the valves, #6 was wicked tight... cranked it and it Purred like a Dog.... I did raise the idle speed to about 600... .. Jojo

Great!!! I tuned a skipping, E-6, 2 valve today, my customer was very happy... we need to keep these great machines running.... jojo

Just for kicks, i'd like to have the circuit board and trace the inlay's to see where they lead, and then put 12 volts to it and a ground.. just use a lawn mower battery, and see if I can find the issue...

Glenn, you read my mind. I was going to say, "that is the color of money" not that I am wealthy.... Just the truth... ... so this dash light issue is odd to me,,, mabey the circuit board is bad??? I don't like these kind of repairs, to much guessing..

How's the diag, goin?

34 is a bit high... anyway, do you simply have a boost leak.... gaskets, hoses, C.A.C. boots, top right corner of the C.A.C.?....... jojo

Thanks Glenn,, Hell I already had my shower. guess I need better soap,😄 Do you remember the bulb type? jojo

It can affect idleing, It may stumble or raise up and down about 25 rpm's. with a pressure gauge on it, you can press throttle to 100 percent, and see the fuel pressure drop, rather than raise.... dont even have to drive it..