Joey Mack

p.s. make sure there is no oring or debris, inside the bore in the rocker shaft, before replacing, jojo

if you pull them out..... new o-rings... jojo

since its a CL.... there are 5 roof lights, 3 holes each, an air horn or 2 with airline hole and mount bolt holes, 1 factory antenna, 5 pairs of sun visor nutserts, and windshield seals. several places for rain to get in... Just my 2 cents.... Jojo

okay.... just because..... did you remove the engine brake celenoids and see if the orings are bad? you will need to remove the ground wire from the head bolt to unlock the celenoid, no biggie, 13mm wrench... when they are out, look in the hole for debris... rear, but it happens, the orings are crucial.

the dash grounds are easy to see. pull the cluster and look to the left, there is a 6mm bolt with grounds attached. clean the connection, then to the right of the fuse panel there is another one, then on the left side of the engine block , in front of the starter is a big bolt with grounds that go it and across to the frame behind the steer tire, theres also a ground breaker on the firewall next to the starter relay... Now if the gauges are fogging up, how did water get in? are the sunvisor nutserts loose and letting rain inside?

I have a kit I put together years ago, with different fittings. I "T-in" where the regulator comes out of the block. If you have a fuel sensor on the regulator, that is good, because you can put the "T" there and plug the sensor back in so you dont create codes, and read it there. 1/4" NPT threads. I have had success with this approach. Jojo

Hell Yeah!!!

It was easy, popping through the exhaust, and poor revving, and a lot of smoke. I cooled it off and ran the valves, #6 was wicked tight... cranked it and it Purred like a Dog.... I did raise the idle speed to about 600... .. Jojo

Great!!! I tuned a skipping, E-6, 2 valve today, my customer was very happy... we need to keep these great machines running.... jojo

Just for kicks, i'd like to have the circuit board and trace the inlay's to see where they lead, and then put 12 volts to it and a ground.. just use a lawn mower battery, and see if I can find the issue...

Glenn, you read my mind. I was going to say, "that is the color of money" not that I am wealthy.... Just the truth... ... so this dash light issue is odd to me,,, mabey the circuit board is bad??? I don't like these kind of repairs, to much guessing..

How's the diag, goin?

34 is a bit high... anyway, do you simply have a boost leak.... gaskets, hoses, C.A.C. boots, top right corner of the C.A.C.?....... jojo

Thanks Glenn,, Hell I already had my shower. guess I need better soap,😄 Do you remember the bulb type? jojo

It can affect idleing, It may stumble or raise up and down about 25 rpm's. with a pressure gauge on it, you can press throttle to 100 percent, and see the fuel pressure drop, rather than raise.... dont even have to drive it..

Did you check the grounds inside the dash? I may have asked this before, sorry ,I forgot. Jojo

Have you checked fuel pressure? There was an issue with the lift pumps slipping. I have replaced dozens of them. It's an easy inspection to do... Pull the lift pump off and see if the plastic gear is slipping on the pump shaft. When this part of the fuel system is good... the pressure should be, between 80-100 PSI... The regulator is in the block, right side, below #4+#5 cyl. it's a 45 degree fitting, #6 J.I.C. fitting and may have a 1/4" barb on it with the plastic return line hooked to it. for what it's worth, I /We,do understand, You asked for help and we will ask for more info, so that we can help you the best way possible.. Keep posting, and we will get this fixed.. Jojo

My friends Superliner has an A/C system under the passenger seat, the grill condensor is on the frame behind the cab with its own cooling fan. it works good, add a small fan to move the air, and you should be good,,, No Snowflakes will come from the vents, sorry.... It was under $700.00, it uses the compressor on the engine, the rest is self contained.. I willl try to get the name tomorrow, jojo

E-7...... great!! PAI has a bunch of parts for this engine. Mack dealers, not so good... Robert Bosch pump, looks dry on the outside.. Looks like the A/C works.... seems like the clutch is in..... I wish I was shopping with you... I live near Charlotte, N.C. I am able to get Inj. Pumps, Injectors, and turbo's re-built... I Just put one on an E-9 on tuesday. great test drive.... anyway, my small point here is that, if you have shops that can do these jobs for the engine, that may help youre decision. I wish you good luck. Jojo

Mack's are slow and deliberate... What you have is an E-Tech. How much of the repair history do you have? The S400-SO41 turbo was used a lot on the 350/400's,and I think the 427, if I recall correctly. So with little info right now. Before I go into a Mountain when you may have a molehill,,, I will wait for more info and comments from the many "Very smart" people here... Jojo

I havent watched the video yet.... no big deal... For me and my People, is simple...... we were doing just fine during trump's repair of our economy, the racism crap is just theater, the Kung Flu, was a scapegoat to use, to help destroy our economy, they (Biden Gov.) broke it, just so they can fix it and take a victory lap..... as far as the rest of the world....... I care, and hope that all of you can overcome youre own dictators and haters...... I am not a world traveler, so I have no idea if other countries have the same A-Hole's that we have.... Still wish I could come to youre country and have a beer or few... with you! With respect, Jojo

I forgot to tell you that on the front valve cover, on both, there is a data plate, everything you need to know, to start research, is right there... jojo

As a MACK mechanic for 23 years, I have a lot of opinions.... The 2000 model has had its share of issues, cam/ lifters,,, and bridge pins, weak engine brakes, EUP codes, (8-1 through 6),and 8-9, pushing coolant out of the surge tank,,,, ( stupid design) trying to manage 12 gallons of coolant in a 3/4 gallon tank... just my opinion there. this engine has run up to a million miles... The 2004 has a redesigned valve train with ceramic lifter rollers for the valves, and spring loaded pushrods on the exhaust valves, however, the Powerleash engine brake is much better than the 690 Jacobs brake on the 2000... assuming there is engine brakes on these units. the 2004, CEGR has a boatload of sensors and High Dollar exhaust parts, Turbo+ EGR valve and cooler, for example... you will certainly have 8-? codes, 4-9, and 9-5, every 6 months... so here are a few of my opinions, there will be several folks commenting on this topic, and you will learn a lot.. there are very smart people here. My suggestion is to get as much repair history as you can. also, it's odd that they would make repairs if you buy one but not repair it to keep it. what do you think? as far as cement truck bodies, wiring issues can be expected because of the cement dust and fluid cement getting into every damn opening. this damages the wiring in a bunch of different ways, corroasion, chaffing, just plain pulling the wires apart, and so-on... Good luck with this purchase, and trust youre gut! Jojo

I guess the sensor for the cam is the issue?? there is a spec for the distance to the cam gear from the sensor hole. I dont have a listing for it, however, I have seen it posted here before. on some of these I have removed the teardrop shaped shim behind the sensor, and the darn thing would run right...... anyway, there is a spec for it. mabey you can look back to find the post.