Joey Mack

880Joe... I think you can, but I have never done it... That is what I was hoping to learn on this one..... The spring-loaded pushrods are to keep the lifter roller on the cam back-cut... (exh. side),,can someone please tell me i'm wrong....I want to learn!!!, regardless of how long I've been doing this.. Of course the 2 Mack dealers in my area,,,, and I quote.... " Have No clue".... I wish I had a Swedish Speaking friend who could translate, Jojo

The inner tube tool is an awesome idea, mind if I use it to fix my own junk?? 😉 Jojo

Yes, I am aware of dropping them. What I did was have my helper 'the owner' install 2 at a time as I moved the cam inward. I was very careful... I was not there when the owner 'who wanted to finish it himself', finished the job and started the engine.. This is the first and last time I let anyone finish and start it without my being there... I don't know what happened... This is the first cam job mishap in 20 years...

Thank you... I don't know as much as I need to know, when I come upon these issues... If I was first on the scene,,, good chance the engine would be making money for my customer... I always look forward to youre knowedge... jojo

Powerleash rocker shafts have a nut on the ends of the rocker shafts instead of at welch plug... Jacobs set-up could pop a plug and drop pressure, however, the Engine brakes wont work at all, and oil pressure gauge will reflect the issue... Are the valve's and E-brake adjusted correctly... Powerleash adjustment requires you to leave the .045" feeler in the engine brake position , then set the exh. lash to .024"... Jojo

Ok.. the intake pushrods are 417's... same as the first generation on both valves.. Yes the exhaust has spring loaded rods... For the back cut on the cam... I am not trying to answer my own question .. I guess I was hoping to hear... hell yes you can swap them. I measured them and they seemed to be the same... My customer is pissed about the second lifter failure, because the roller broke and destroyed his new cam during run-in. It's the Chicken- Egg thing here... Did the lifter roller break, or did this H-Ring decide to move... H-Rings checked good during cam job.. Now I have the heads off and we are going to re-build it... Unfortunately there have been a few others in this engine, including the owner who said he adjusted the valve's previously, and after a while..... here I am trying to make Chicken Salad out of Chicken sh#t... Anyway...... Jojo

I am wondering if I can replace the ceramic lifters in an 05' ASET-I 400, with powerleash, with the steel lifters from the early E-Techs? I have done dozens of cam replacements in E-7's and E-Techs, but never swapped lifter types... Thank you, Joey Mack

Too funny... that's sounds like what I would do too...well I lived there in the early 90's. and it smelled great. I would go into the little store attached to it and get donuts and bread.. Small world for sure. I also had an apartment on cumberland ave. right up the street from Nissen's...

yes ... a jumper...

Thats low, are the batts good? during this test? I have simply put a paper clip in the plug at the dimmer switch to see if the lights come on "Full bright"..

NO ETHER!!!! There may be an issue with the lift pump on the side of the injection pump... The electric pump is something I would do on my stuff just to see if it helps, etc... hell try it, but there should be a functioning check valve in the lift pump... Post a pic of the pump, I'm curios. I assume an Ambach, Jojo

Yeah ... Off washington ave. in the Munjoy Hill.. neighborhood... I lived in Kennedy Park for a short time... 500 feet away... Jojo

OK, Just curious. I lived in Portland Maine for a long time and could smell the bakery everyday... Jojo

I am also curious about the back half . Syncro.... they will act stupid if the snap rings inside the synchro assembly go bad or were left out by a newbie when they synchro was replaced. It's like a motorcycle clutch just bigger and has 2 sets of thrust plates and friction plates... Anyway, there will be more info from others to help you. I have the book on this tranny and can send pics if needed.. Jojo

Pull the shift cover and inspect the rails, and the silver set bolts in the forks for looseness and any slop... What is the history on this tranny. The poppet balls in the shift cover control rail position, which controls the forks... jojo

around 125- 150 degrees for engine brake operation. "V's" test is a good reliable test procedure... ...... I hope you are having a great summer in Maine. I lived there for 23 years. I miss the taste and smell of the fresh air... Joey

I think you have what some call a "Gray Motor"? If so? do you have a code for it? if so, good chance its a wire issue. This system will be "power leash".. If the engine is "red", then it's a volvo MP-7. Anyway ... try to post more info when you can.

That last one just about say's it all !!!!!!! 👍

was there 12.6 volts at the switch plug ?

It's a reostat, just turn it to see if the dash lights work., if the lights come on but act stupid,,,, rotate the dial left and right as fast as you can to see if is just dirty.. it may come back to life.... Jojo

you have a volvo/mack... so remove the triangle panel on top of the dash, under the C.B. posts and check the relay cubes for the issue.. Your ground wires are GRAY. Just incase you are checking them. there is a small group of grounds above the throttle pedal, to the right. You can look down through the top panel to see them and how to check them. Jojo

do you have a dial for the dash lights? They do mess up..

May I suggest a good inspection of the plug on the truck harness, and gently tighten the terminals before you plug the new sensor in... Jojo

ok. so its a 309m?

If its not damaged.. back it off.... then ...by hand.... screw it in til it touches,,,, then back it out 1 full turn. 360 degrees... jojo