Joey Mack

The 400 seem's right, but I thought you have to change the cam key for timing? (Advanced) to go to 427 and up?... Some others will add to this... There's nothing wrong with the 400... it pulls great...Jojo

Ricky.... there is so much knowledge here, it's crazy.. I like these threads for a bunch of reason's. One big one is that I get to learn a different way to look at truck's that I have been around for more than 20 year's, I always learn something here, (Not saying I was a know-it-all before).. What I learn here makes me better, when I'm serving my customers... Jojo

Well I just saw all the pic's... nice truck, minor repairs to do, the trunnion cap doesnt looked cracked, that's a good thing. the missing indicater may be High beam or Park brake light, I'm excited for you, Those trucks are great... jojo

burnt coolant trails on the side of the engine block, is one way,,,

good luck Ricky... You can't go wrong with the RD 690S... It will be an adjustment as far as driving it, but that is one tough truck. I have driven many of them and the repairs were usually thing's like camel back box rubbers and regular wear items, A clutch here and there, and sometimes re-seal or replace a carrier, Mabey a set of torque arms, but as hard as these trucks can work, no biggie. The E-tech is a good engine with a very simple computer system compared to todays truck's, and can be repaired by a good mechanic. there are some specific tools to do engine work, but they are readily available. I have bought many of them. (I can point you to the tool vendors in the future)... Then if programming is needed, you can take it to a dealer if you can find one that know's how to use Mack software. I set up one of my customers with a laptop/ Vocomm box/ and P.T.T....( around $2500.00+) and I can do almost everything with it, to their older Mack's... jojo

Amen Mark...

yes, but youll get it.. I double clutch, I get grief for being a school boy driver. well, after 24 years, i dont care.. it works for me and i can shift smoother.. however, an Eaton is easy to shift without the clutch. it's all in youre skill set and time in the seat... no biggie, as long as you are not trashing the drive line and clutch... jojo

with the price of trucks today, do you buy an older one and try to build what you want. I wish I knew the answer...

the T300 is a smoother shifting tranny, with shorter gears.. as you know. It would be cool if you had access to a 7 speed for practice to see if you like it.. When I drive them, I count in my head, 1-1000,, 2-1000, shift. I double clutch so so when I come out of gear I say 1-1000, (nuetral) 2-1000 into next gear... it's silly but it works for me,,, then after a few minutes i'm back to having a decent rhythm I still scrape a gear here and there. The blue button on the shifter for the 7spd. is for low and low-low. you start in low-low, then go to low. if you need to use low range. then when you change the range you have to flip the blue button up as you pass through nuetral, because it is not synchronized... like the 9 spd. you have...

the seven speed is a tough tranny. but patience is needed to drive it. they do not shift as smooth as an Eaton and the time between gears is long. that tranny is a 2070... probably has 4:17 or 4:42 rears.. it's a strong combo, just slow.. I dont mind 'slow' it's a truck.. jojo

Tough one to answer because of the un-known's.. I guess if the seller would allow you to drain a little gear and tranny oil(before the truck is cranked/moved) into a clean pan through a small kitchen strainer to look for chunk's, and oil condition, you can take it from there. I have seen many of these trucks with over 1 million. it ay be hard to get good maintenance records, because the truck may have been owned by several people.. I hope some more opinion's are posted... jojo

here are the fuse legend's... A little hard to read, my hands were dirty when i made these copies in a hurry... jojo

it's basically were the wires make a change in direction, like through a switch or relay or module.. I'm a little rusty, but that;s the best way I can explain it. the pin # and ECU plug # will stay the same on the circuit, for example EJ1 26, is Engine module, J1 plug/connector pin 26.. or VJ1 12, is Vehicle ECU connector J1 pin 12.. I'm sorry if I'm not making sense, it's hard for me to type this, it would be easier if we were together looking at it.. jojo

isnt the 5th wheel reversed for pulling sleds at truck pull's? jojo

I've had these for about 20 years. One of them is perfect. There are Book number's for you to use to try to find what you need..

just a thought.... If he marks the heads of the pump gear bolts, then puts longer bolts in there place, then loosen the pump and slide it back on a guide bolt in place of the econovance mounting bolt's? maybe with a a flat screwdriver he can sneak some Mack Gray RTV. after a good cleaning with brake clean.. What do you think Glenn?? Jojo

This one is happy right where he is.. Jojo

WE have 2 inches of snow so far today, 1/16/22 9:30 am.. My Boys love it!! Jojo

Spoiled Brat's !! Jojo

we have 2 superliners with a unit that goes under the passenger seat and the condensor with the fan is mounted on the frame behind the cab on the left side. you use the compressor on the engine and run long lines. the unit under the seat has the blower and vents in it. I put a small fan in the cab to circulate the cold air better. it is a good set-up not perfect... but good.. We are in central N.C. we get many 90+ degree days.. I will be back at that shop on Tuesday, and I will try to get the name and part number.. I posted this because the grill condensors are expensive.. the A/C system was 3/4 the price of replacing just the grill condensor.

I'm thinking you may need to remove the springs and frame hangers and take to a shop with a press.. I have done then on the truck and I had to get creative to get the new ones in. the old ones are usually so bad that the pin will come out and then I cut the rubber and bushing with a sawz all, yes i do nick the boss but I had to do what I had to do.. then I buff the boss with a flapper wheel. then I fight and curse trying to press the pin in the hanger.. in recent years i send them out to get pressed.. I wonder if there is a mobile service in youre area that has a portable hydraulic press.. jojo

Glenn is right ... just check the level in the bowl, at the rear plug. the rear end is splash lubed and there are channels cast into the inside of the carrier housing to direct the oil where it needs to go.. jojo

Here they are... it's a copy of a copy i made 22 years ago.. jojo

some time's, I lube the u-bolt threads then back the nuts off and lube the nut and washer surfaces then retorque them. then run the truck to see if the springs are shifting, sometimes you can hear a popping sound when turning, that means they are shifting side to side. I said 3 spring leavves, you have 4... sorry about that.. between the axle beam and the block, should be a thin wedge. if so, does it look crushed or worn? I think the u-bolt's are 7/8" I will get the torque for them and post it.. jojo

Yeah, I'm sorry if I'm harsh.. I just think about owner operators who need to get the most out of thier trucks and this tranny/clutch, has many issues.. I have pulled many of them before 300,000 miles.. you are doing good if it's the original tranny and clutch.. jojo