Joey Mack

I'm guessing you have #14,500 front springs, 3 leaves... the band clamp on the end of the spring pack is basically an indicater for shifting spring's. Are they shifting? if so ... jack the truck up and support the frame. crawl under there with a sledge hammer and try to straighten the spring leaves, if you do... they are loose.. probabley 1 1/8" socket put the toughest 3/4 gun on it or 500lbft or whatever you can pull... test drive the truck "at work" and re-check e'm.... jojo

just had another thought.... So our supplies of ALL KIND'S are in short supply... You reckon it's because of a 'War effort'? I'm no history buff... But what I think about is 1943 in the U.S. when the U.S. Mint made pennies with steel because they needed the copper for the war.. Is this B.S. we have similar issue's, because of the scope of highly intelligent weapons and they are messing with other supplies, like food,, and fuel,, and blaming it all on the 'New scapegoat' COVID ? Am I nut's? Jojo

well I found 2 pic's just not with him in my boxer shorts... jojo

Yep... The Cone of Shame.... 1 of my boys, had it plus a set of boxer shorts on after some rear end surgery. jojo

I hope i'm following correctly... Did you swap a known good EUP with #4 to see if the issue follow's the EUP? jojo

M-drives don't make it to 750... they are junk...

I forgot to add, that there is a small air tank under the driver's,,,, I mean 'sitter's' seat, that is for the tranny...you may need to clean it out.. jojo

Yes... clean/filterd air is a must!!! and NO air brake alcohol in the system to displace water. the shift cover can't handle it... BTW..... I call "I-Shift" "I-Don't Shift" What pisses me off about all of these automated system's... Is the FACT that People who buy these P.O.'S truck's, are the R+D ( research and developement) for the products.... OK, time to go..... jojo

I have to correct myself.. the fitting is a #10 jic.. sorry for the false info.. jojo

we used to put a paper clip in the sensor plug to test this fault... I've seen them left in,,, trash companies are the worst offender's... Non MP trucks... jojo

no. sorry... jojo

yes sir.. i understand.... I have a fitting made up that fits the line coming off the top of the air compressor. I hook my shop compressor to the discharge line to the dryer.. then I can listen 'quietly' for air leaks....

Don't sweat the ABS.... No harm no foul.... jojo

since it's a CH... pull the floor pan out and secure it properly and away from the exhaust pipe. There should have been a 90 degree mounting bracket where the line changes from the SS braided line to Rubberized steel braided line. It looks like you have a Mack tranny, the bracket should mount using one of the shift cover bolts. I believe it is mounted on the same side as the air dryer. of course, someone may have removed these parts before you got the truck, and hopefully you dont have to fight with a PTO control tower on the floor panel, in order to get it out... Good luck, jojo

no..... look...its easy.... the rubber line is DOT airline for a #10 JIC fitting. jojo

yes sir...the E-6 I built last year had copper piping like you describe, but he has an '03 CH-613... they run a stainless braided line from the top of the compressor to the top of the tranny, where it goes to a heavy rubber /nylon braided hose, down to the air drier. with respect... jojo

That truck usually has a stainless braided line thats about 30" long and goes to a bracket on top of the tranny where it then goes to a rubber coated steel braided line to the input of the air dryer. #10 JIC fitting's on the line end's. takes a 1" wrench to remove/install them.. jojo

so dry liners can be driven in with a block of wood??? I thought the .002" crush on the liner during install required either dry ice or a hydraulic press? just asking... jojo

I totaly forgot something imortant..... yes the batt. switch is a thing.... but do you have a seperate toggle switch on the panel just for the 2 outer cab light's? I'm sorry I didn't post this in the beginning.... jojo

I understand... you could pull the head liner down and dissconnect the hot wire to the outer lights, and connect the outer lights to the 3 center bulbs so they just come on with the park/headlight switch. and when you cut the hot wire that feeds the 2 outer lights, put a small heat shrink on the end of the hot wire so it doesnt short to ground anywhere... jojo

gotch'a.. good luck ... the E-7 that I re-built because of age and the chipped liner, ran just fine and with a radiator cap that have the pressure relief lever on it and letting it breath when needed, and some coolant now and then.. some summer days were a bit hot for it...this was before I went through it..jojo

I recently pulled liners from an ENDT E-6. I didnt have a hydraulic puller... I welded a spiral of weld on the inside of the liner, then used my Kent Moore liner puller. it was still a chore and I had to sharpen the dogs on my puller a few times to get a good bite. Then i had a machine shop press the liners in the block for me. My enigine was out of the truck, and I was re-building it.. for you to do 1 liner in chassis may be a lot of work, depending on tooling. Dry icing the new liner to get it in is a method you can use.. I never got real good at it. I also rebuilt an E-7, 2 years ago that was putting pressure in the cooling system. when I pulled the heads, #6 liner was chipped, just like you described your's is.. so far all is good... I hope I helped you with the approach to this repair... jojo

I doubt it... did you look for a battery dissconnect switch? usually at the batt box area. they intentionally have the outside cab lights burn when batt's are switched on.. jojo

Just recapping what I posted... The 2 clearence lights burning after the truck is cut of, is so that someone can see that the batteries are not cut off.. it's a safety item. .. Jojo