Joey Mack

So here is one guy I was hoping would post... He doesnt have to open a book, he just know's.. (Glenn).... jojo

no timing.. I have a 2 valve in my shop that i pick at from time to time. in the oil pump.... with the cover off, put a straight edge over the gears and housing.. A .007" feeler gauge should be hard to insert under the straight edge... if its loose,,, get new gears.. the clearence of the pump gears to the inside of the side walls of the housing is .006" these are the 'high limits' the low limits are .001 and .002" respectively... I hope i'm helping... jojo

did you inspect the oil pressure relief valve in the oil filter stand, where it mounts to the block? the valve can not have any hard scratches on it and the bore needs to be Round. The oil pump relief spring test is 40 lbs. +/- 4 lbs. at 3 5/64".. this is for all but the bypass filter type. that one is.. 25lbs. +/- 2 3/4".. jojo

got it.. to be honest, I I have only been in a handfull of E-6's.. so I can't think of something else to check, outside of something not installed correctly, however, I do not like to question a Mechanics ability without more info.. There are a bunch of guys here that know way more than I will probably ever know. The best I could do is go get my book and read it to see if there is another check that can be done.. With respect, jojo

Did you replace or inspect the oil pump? There is also a pressure valve in the oil filter housing, is it good? jojo

I like an E-7 Mechanical any day of the week.. Reliable engines. The ones with the electric governor housings are very good. The plug and wires for it are good, but if the duetch connector has come out of the yoke that holds it in place, and ran loose for a long time, the wires can be weakened to the point they lose contact. Its fixable.. As far as MPG.. hard to say, maybe around 7.. I still see parts for them, and our pump shops, can repair the injection pump if needed. Good luck, jojo

Glenn,,, you have a ton of knowledge.. I just posted what the book said.. Myself , I dont recall having runout issues with all the E-7's I have been around. The loose bolts I have had ,caused damage to the bell housing on Mack trannys that was not fixable without a case replacement.. 200 + 300 series trannys.. for what it's worth,, youre never guessing to me.. jojo

yes Glenn. and My Mack E-7 book shows .020" runout.. I guess that would be .010" per side. jojo

TJC, I understand... I get mad quickly at times, and then my wife wishes she had a different husband, (which would be fine).. I watch these news programs because I want to see what the 'f' is going on.. I feel I can keep myself leveled out,.. jojo

So I'm watching "Tipping point" on OAN news.. Now our King is giving away drones, that are flying bombs.. I have no idea how many munitions we have or planes, tanks, ships, guns, bullets, shells, cannons ,,, or what ever... All I know is that , if i gave my guns and ammo away, and word got out, my home would be attacked by someone looking to take it over... any thought's?? jojo

I beleive the runout procedure came from early engines, like an E-6.. I believe they had eccentric pins that can be rotated to align the flywheel housing. But to the best of my knowledge, the E-7 didnt really need to be checked. yes lots of movement in the tranny input shaft, .020" runout, is probably nothing to worry about. especially because my E-7 book said so. It doesnt hurt to check it, but I dont know how you would adjust it. But if excessive runout was found, then I would try to find out WHY so I dont build the issue back into it again.. just my thoughts, combined with the book knowledge, I always welcome more opinion's.. I learn from them.. jojo

Bob White, You would be correct sir... I am surrounded by it.. here in central N.C. jojo

Seems to me, you guys get sh!t done.. I think its great that you are using an MR.. I think they are great trucks... jojo

I feel your pain, Bob... I really do... I get so upset.. It's hard to keep calm about the B.S. that all of us who work hard to survive, see, useless Pieces of Sh!t.. get everything for free, and protection under the law because they are not white... it's friggin crazy. and these continuous cries of racism, when they dont get what they want for free, drive me nut's.. Do the best you can to keep your heart rate down,,, i know its hard.. jojo

Check out Dowel pin # 183GC237.it's the later pin after 1992.. I believe it is a full round pin.. The bladed pin you have is ok, but you may feel better with the pin I posted. I'm into this, post, so keep asking questions, and If I get off track, let me know.. jojo

ok... My Mack book shows the part # for the inner bolts w/Allison tranny as: 429GC23M... That bolt is 2 inches long.. I cant imagine it is an SAE bolt.. jojo

So It seems like the housing is listing to the right.. When were the main bearings replaced? I swear I am not trying to make a mountain out of this, just asking.. engine runs clockwise, making the thrust side , the right side.. ?? the dowel that is a blade type is older but not sure if it correct, I see full round pins in E-Tech's, the bladed pins are to be installed vertically.. the bolts on your engine are METRIC.. i dont get the 7/16 x 14 size.. I'll be right back... I will get the bolt size in a bit... jojo

yes to locating dowels,, So the reading s you have may be good.. keep in mind that the crank shaft may move eliptically because of main bearing clearence, and wear.. You are allowed .020" of runout when checking with a dial indicator on the end of the crank shaft. I can not post pics anymore, so if you P.M. your cell #, I can send pics from my Book.. there is also a specific flywheel housing for Allison's and the inner mounting bolt are specific, similar looking bolts can bottom out and not tighten to around 170 lbft properly.. I hope I can help you, jojo

are these readings posted, as they were read on the engine? is .022 at 12 O'Clock? , then 3 O'Clock, is '0' then 6 O'Clock is .013, and 9 O'Clock is .028?

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if the over board breather isnt puffing like a freight train.. I would just do the bottom end and an oil pump. Then freshen up the cooling system.. new coolant, thermostat, fan clutch if its viscous, even the water pump.. Terry and FJH, nailed it.. I would easily choose PAI parts for this repair.. I'm building an E-Tech now, with PAI parts.. The oil pump actually came with a new pick-up tube.. jojo

Is it a coincidence that our homeland security chief is looking away, when it comes to our southern border... He is Cuban born... who are the real racist's?? not me... jojo

Abortion used as "Birth control" is atrocious!!!. Saving the mother's life is a different story.. How the hell did these WACKO'S get so much 'Street Cred'???? The internet puts info out there instantly, and the 'sheep' suck it up as 'creed' without thinking about it for a bit before saying. 'Hell yeah, I'll make a sign and protest'... Because my feelings got hurt..... You racist white man..... anyway,, getting pissed again... Like I said, i'm not well educated... but I believe I can see through a lot of the B.S. .. jojo

I had another thought... check the bell housing flange for wear that could causes the bell housing bolts to loosen, and therefore cause the tranny to move, and crack the flywheel housing.. I had an '01 RD that had loose bell housing bolts, and I would remove them and put lock tight on them, put'em back in, and next service they were loose again.. I knew it was the bell housing, but because it was a T-2070 tranny, and I handled all maintenance intervals, I just kept tightening them whenever I saw the truck, until it was time for a clutch, then I Sent it to "Overdrive rebuilders" to get the case replaced.. and a re-build.. jojo

since it is an E-Tech CCRS engine, Flywheel housing should just bolt on properly.. It certainly wont hurt to check it, especially because of the current damage to the flywheel housing.. jojo