Joey Mack

I have never seen that square shape before.. I've been around decades of R's and RD's... is it some sort of R-700 hood?

It comes out of the side of the block, right side around #4+#5.. The 45 degree fitting is a regulator. 80-100 P.S.I. is good pressure. You can put a gauge on it. I have made a few adapters to hook into the fitting and still keep the fitting in place and if you have the fuel sensor in your fitting, making an adapter is easy. just "T" into it, and attach your gauge, and screw the sensor in to the "T" so you dont throw codes or cause any other ECM issues. jojo

fuel pressure regulator...

Grounds.... Pull cluster and clean the ground bolt to the left. It is a 6mm bolt, (10mm socket) If it has the star washer, remove it, buff the paint clean and scrape any heat shrink glue from the eyelets. Do the same next to the fuse panel on the right side. Then clean the ground on the left side of the engine block in front of the starter, also clean the frame ground bolt that is across from the block ground. There will be a #4 wire going from the block to the frame there. Then clean the ground breaker on the firewall that is next to the starter relay.. Good luck, Jojo

there is a reversing relay on the the top of the intake manifold. It goes to the bimber valve in the front of the injection pump. Just check to see that the air line and fittings are good, sealed, tight,,, etc.. stay simple for a bit. The E-6 is a great engine... Go bull dog!

I had another thought. did you put gauges on it and see the high side pressure? if it spikes passed the High pressure setting, it will shut the compressor off too..

does it have an APADS module? and is it flashing a code?

Is the evap core freezing up and shutting the system down? Do you see a good flow of water draining from the drain tray on to the ground when the A/C/ is on?

the last time i had this issue it was in the compressor clutch. is you clutch hidden and I think the plug has 3 wires in it,,???

pic's please? I have a lot of spare parts but never heard those part numbers... jojo

if you have a power.divider switch on the dash, and it still works.... you can drive on the front axle. just take the intermediate driveshaft out.. you can look at the front diff and see a longer power divider, and there will be a 1/4" air line going to it.. jojo

Shawn, you responded to a 4 year old post,, what is going on with your truck, and we will try to help you...Joey Mack

I'm guessing this engine is an ASET CEGR engine? if so, has the air filter for the VGT turbo been replaced and has air flow to the VGT actuator been checked? The actuator can also stick, causing poor operation. that is an easy fix.. The filter is below the starter, and there should be a "T" fitting plumbed in by the treadle valve. it is probably silver in color and it has a hexagon shape to it and a red rubber vent button on it, unless it rotted away. The fitting is a pressure protection valve that opens at around 85 P.S.I. when this system fails, you will have power loss and what you described, due to the VGT not operating correctly.. Good luck, jojo

Some don't have one.. it will be a spin-on filter in front of the thermostat housing... Front and center... jojo

good deal... jojo

Good point again Paul.... 20 years ago, I worked on a few of them, MS 200's and 300's, and a bunch of CS model's too, and I thought they were neat trucks, and they ran and drove good too. "M" can have a good truck, if it's not too far gone.. I did see some parts on E-Bay. Most were for the 300P. Are there a lot of parts in Australia?.... We used to order from Renault in France, here in the States.. jojo

i don't see where you posted that it is running Hot. Do you have other issues?

I'm curious why I have a (-1) next to my name on on of my posts.? I know I could start a thread in another forum, just looking for a short answer... Jojo

I beleive the engine brake will not operate below 150 degree's. so mabey the temp gauge issue is telling the ECM to dissable the engine brakes... jojo

Paul, you make good points.. re-sleeveing the cylinders is a good idea. As I said.... I honed the cylinders, However on this truck that I believe you have to pull the hub off the spindle,,,,,, I would get the machine shop work done. and then, if you (drive) it right..., it should last many years.. You're thought's Paul?... jojo

It has drum brakes, right? I bet if the shoe backing plate is re-useable, a local brake re-man shop can re-line them. there are a few places here in the Charlotte area that do it. The wheel cylinders, may be re-buildable too. I just recently had to re-build 2 on a 65 D-500. I was able to hone the cylinders and find a build kit with the correct diameter rubber cups. I was able to save the springs and pistons... They worked and didnt leak when I was done. No guess how long they will live, but it was my only option at the time. I assume you checked E-Bay? jojo

https://www.truckid.com/mack-midliner-series-accessories-parts/....France... (Renault).. Heck it was hard to get parts when I worked on them more than 15 years ago. They are good trucks, just pricey. I will keep looking. My local dealer still has books on them. Is yours an MS-200P? Jojo

A 90 model with an E-6?? and with an air operated fan, not a viscous fan clutch?? I'm about to learn something here. Mabey Glenn or F, will answer this one for you.

I have to apologise. The Owners decided to keep it for a parts truck. They spent more on it than needed, and will part it out into thier fleet. I will do better next time.. jojo

Please "Zoom Out" when you take the new pics.. jojo