Joey Mack

1st direct is High range. isnt your shift knob round with an air switch that goes sideways? 4 positions. lo-direct, nuetral and reverse.

My friend has an eaton in his E-9 Superliner. its a 15 spd. heres the vin... RW713/001554

Mabey need to replace the box rubbers on the spring ends, install the "Twinkies" as well, then take the front transverse torque arm bracket and move it to the rear, and ditch the ball joint type bracket. You can set the axles on stands (in the chassis) and rotate them to straight up, (if they need to be rotated) then measure the distance from the A-Frame mount holes to the front of the torque arm bracket, as stated before, and that should be the "on-center" measurement to order torque arms by length, if using the VIN doesn't work..... they are shimmed with 5/8" washers.

Christ almighty!!!!! I'm guessing the box rubbers have been blown out for a long time.

"F" .... Brilliant!! Jojo

O.D. It's a shame that this happens at Bill's.. That stop is 15 minutes north of my house. But then again, it's a new normal. My wife works for Chewy in Salisbury, and she has been promoted 3 times. she has earned 4 raises as well, all in 13 months.. My wife is Older than 50... hint hint, (just in case she see's this) Point is., this Co. has a high enough turnover, that they over hire and always advertise for job openings... Young'ins are friggin slack!.. For Real... Then, here comes my Wife, someone who knows how to work.. She' Tough! jojo

no gasket for oil pump mounting.. Piston cooling tubes dont look damaged by eye unless they are F'D up.. they are probably fine as far as oil pressure loss, if they were not un bolted.. there is a target to aim them if this was to be done in your case.. There is a spring and piston in the base of the oil pump. it's easy to inspect and if there is a lot of scratches on the piston it will leak out oil pressure. the spring also has a spec. on it as well. there is also a pressure valve in the filter pad mount to the bolck.. Do you see a hex headed bolt behind the oil filters near the bottom of the mount? I think it's 7/8" but forget. that is the piston cooling tube relief valve. I dont have a compression spec for this spring and I think the oil pump spring spec is 45 pounds at 1-1/2" compressed..

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Has any thing been done to the cam and flywheel sensors.? arent they both at the rear and have the same plug? what codes do you have? I assume fluids are up... I wish I was more fluent in Swedish, Jojo

so "My Pillow" has been removed from retailers like Kohl's and Bed Bath and beyond, because Mike said there was fraud in the election process..... ( that enabled Kamala to win, I mean Biden, no wait... Obama, to win a third term)... It is amazing that there are so many "Wimp's" that own huge business's... What the heck is going on? Why is the Jackass's ass getting kissed at every turn?

ok. well just like it was said by "F" and "V".. you can do the repair by visually setting the engine to the correct degree, and looking in the TEM hole to see the timing mark. Pull the pump and dont turn it or the engine, and you should be fine..mabey take a paint pen and mark timing gear bolt position , by painting around the heads to mark where they are before removal.. Good luck to you, jojo

I have only ever used my tool that I posted. why are you pulling the pump?

This new Klan that we are stuck with, does nothing more than create problems, blame President Trump, then step in and fix the problem later, and say..... Look at me!!!!! I'm Pro-American, just look...

I was quick on the draw this time....

P/N 37077

it's this one "V"

425 is a bigass tire... rekon you have a broken belt in the tire? is this an RD? whats the bolt pattern? budd, spoke, piloted?

AMEN!! i also put a jack stand under the tag axle, just in case it wants to come down while im under it.

Well..... I backed it out of the shop today after re-building the carb.. the hand brake works good, I tried to shift gears but... she aint ready for that yet,,,, or is it me whos not ready.. anyway, I need to get it tuned so it runs better, it shut off a couple times but fired right up. I also have to put a resistor on the coil, its getting hot. this truck is positive ground, i wonder if i need to wire the coil backwards? any thoughts? i have no practical knowledge of positive ground wiring, Jojo

I forgot to ask about a separate rear main housing. just curious. still need to do the runout check for the alignment of the clutch and tranny... I'm glad the others posted on this topic.. jojo

i looked up a metro unit... thats cool thanks again.. I'm going to bypass the old system and get the lines set up to hook to a new type of set up. I have a lot of room to do that work. there is already new lines and I think the wheel cyls are new too.. of course when i put fluid pressure to them, the truth will come out....

thank you! i will look it up. around a '96 model Geo?

OK..... The sealant is Mack Gray! also, that fly wheel housing may need to have "Runout" checked.... put the housing up dry to check and set run-out... if needed on this engine. I have done this only a few times many years ago... I hope "F", and Glenn chime in. There is others that can tell you as well.... jojo

good thing i'm hungry... I have words to eat.... "Welcome to Old truck repair" as I have said to others....$300.00 for the correct master cyl. at Amazon of all places...

Carb kit will be here in the morning. now i'm searching for a brake master cyl. I may put a 1ton chevy one on there with 2 chambers. I dont intend on working this truck at all, so I think I can bypass the old rusted vacuum booster and use the chevy master cyl. I would appreciate any opinions. i will look to see if there is a uni-fit booster master combo that fits in small spaces..... Thanks for the support. Jojo