Joey Mack

did you pressure test the C.A.C. and intake manifold? if you have a one piece intake manifold, the gasket may be blown out near 5+6.... jojo

So true!!! I'm driving one, 10 years so far. Thanks for the laugh... jojo

thank you guys.. im proud to have her.. Jojo

Well after 7 months of lookin at her.... I pushed it in the shop. I hung a lawn mower gas tank with an in-line filter, like an I.V at the hospital, to feed the carb, and amazingly. it fired right up without ether.. I was happy to see the alt. and oil pressure gauge work. of course the carb gaskets are dry, so fuel leaked out. no sweat I just lowered the tank below the carb and let it clear out.. it had great throttle response... going to re-build the carb and, well.... keep going.. As you can see.. I have 3 helpers in my shop.. jojo

its basically the same as doing a cam job... sorry. I dont know if there is a gear puller that can pull the cam gear in the block, then good luck seating the 450 degree cam gear properly... jojo

I remember having a 460 in the shop with a low power complaint, it was inframed 6 months prior. I had to pull heads due to a coolant leak at #6. this job turned into a mess. I tried and tried to figure out the low power issue but didnt find the issue, and the cust didnt want to spend a bunch more money. this was where i found the procedure to check cam timing. the cam was timed in this engine. I will keep watching this thread. I too want to know the answer.. good luck, Jojo

well I looked through my e-tech book and cant find the timing check procedure.. I may have printed it off, when I was at the dealership... Mabey Mackpro, V, or F, know this procedure to check cam timing. Instead of the rocker on 3 being rocked, i think i pulled the injector to check TDC on #3... anyway, there is a way to check timing.. I will stand back now and watch.. jojo

the offset key gives a 3 degree change. up to 300 HP the key was installed with the red painted side out. (retarded) 350 up to 400 was a straight key, 427 and up was the same offset key but turned around so the white side was out. (advanced)... I dont know when this change was eliminated. I was told here that it was around 2004........ I wish I could remember the procedure, where you bring the engine to TDC on #1 and roll it to 28 degrees and the #3 exhaust rocker is rocked. that tells you that the timing marks were lined up correctly... when i have time i will dig out my E-Tech book and look for it... jojo

too bad theres not a peep hole in the timing cover to see what the cam key color is, or if it's a straight key.. He needs the "White side" out.... I wonder if you could get a scope inside throught the breather hole ?...jojo

Nice truck.... check the steering stop clearences on both sides. There are stop bolts installed with a jam nut on then. the stop bolt should be square headed. take the weight off the steer tires and have someone turn the wheel (Engine off) all the way one way then the other way. when all the way to one side check the gap between the bolt and the "nub" that sticks out on the axle beam. it should about an 1/8".. you can use a paint mixing stick for a feeler gauge, the length helps.. if the gaps are more than that , you should be able to adjust the stops in the gearbox. to do that... rather than me tell you, I suggest identifying the steering gear name and part #, then go to the website for adjustment procedure. similar boxes can be rebuilt as "adjustable" or "non-adjustable". Go Bulldog!

i beleive it goes to the clutch switch first then to the inj. pump. Is yours "full mechanical"? where is power missing? also. is it jacobs 680 brakes or dynatard?

is there a fuse for it? is there power to the dash switch ?

i'm due for my shot around 5/25

I agree with you... I always push my customers to let me run the valves... I dont care for ceramic, but .. yes proper maintainance will allow them to live longer... and the jack hammer effect, only has to hit once.... at some point they went to pin less bridges on both... I like pin less bridges. I have seen mechanics ignore the bridge lash, and scratch my head...... anyway... jojo

If it has spring loaded exhaust push rods, that would be CCRS... I call it ceramic cam roller sh$t.. It will have ceramic roller pushrod lifters. It may also have pin less intake bridges. The cam has a back cut on the exhaust lobes, I think its to accomadate the spring loaded push rods and act as an internal EGR... Help me out here, Mackpro... Jojo

90-97, with the last ones having an electronic governor housing. still miniscule compared to the next era. E-Tech..

Good luck Danny... Jojo

ok... well.. you dont know the truck yet, ok. I suggest a thorough visual inspection, "By You" and get familiar with your new truck before you spend money on repairs yet. You may find a pinched hose or a leak or something silly to cause issues. then go "up" from there. There will be several people here that can advise you. Keep posting... Jojo

so its an ASET CEGR engine? When you said, "first day on the road with it" did you mean "ever" or after the EGR repair?

ok... now your on to something....

you can always replace the thermostat, and put fresh coolant in too start with after a good visual inspection of all coolant lines and "cores" if you have a bunk, check it... is the fan belt loose? did you turn the heat on high to see if the temp dropped? what was the recent repair history????? anyway, i'm puking out a bunch of Q's .... Jojo

yes, does the fan come on when needed? is the radiator free of dirt? is the system full of coolant and not water? is your gear selection correct? and so on.... is there a stuck brake? get my point? Please post more info about the truck and how you work it. One of us or many of us will get you the answer... Jojo

there is a tool that you put on the radiator cap nipple, and it will detect exhaust gasses in the coolant. NAPA sells it. It may be called a combustion tester....... An old timer taught me to take the thermostat out, put the thermo housing back on, and by-pass the compressor water lines ,only drain enough coolant to do this. then take the hose off the top radiator pipe and put it back on the thermo housing, and fill the cooling system to the top of the thermo housing nipple to where you can see the water, but there is a good 3" of hose above the water line. then take the belts off the water pump, and start the engine. after a minute or so, if the water perculates, then you have compression entering the cooling system. Usually it indicates a cracked head.. Good luck, Jojo

post the last six of the vin. and I will try to help. jojo

Hello Mr.moody... With as much respect as I can Muster... The youth vote to me, doesn't mean a damn thing... todays youth has "Hands out" rather than dirty working man hands. This Is not a post to be rude to you, It;s just how I feel based on what I see when I try to employ people or when I see my customers struggle with slackass youth. Jojo