Joey Mack

I forgot to mention how tight of a space it is to get a large ratchet/breaker bar, inside the top reduction housing to tighten the sh!t out of those 2 inner bolt's. I have a 7/8' , 1/2" drive socket that I trimmed down to fit under the bevel pinion, so I can get a good pull on the bolt in that position, the other one can be hammered in place with a strong 1/2" drive impact, then pulled with a breaker bar.. the hard part is that there is a frame rail in the way...... Just get creative, and work on youre cuss word's, you'll need em' Jojo

I'm looking for an exhaust manifold center section or a complete manifold. The center section part # is: 104GC5124.. 1986 RW-713/ 001522 E-6 (4- Valve) With an Ambach Inj. Pump... Thank you, Jojo

cal codes are important, but the engine will run good without them. however when all is repaired, the cal. codes should be installed... 'F' is right jojo

'F' It's got to be great that you work in a shop that lets you make tool's. The last Mack dealership I worked in, had no interest in my tool making ability... It had to be a "MackVo" approved tool.. I still made tools when no-one was looking, and fixed what I could... One boost issue that I solved after a bunch of test drives and head scratching, was on an ASET 'C' eng.. The boost sensor that was replaced was the wrong part number for that engine and it would dump boost at 1500 RPM's consistently.. 2 guys worked on this truck for a month, and put aa turbo on it and an EECU, and all kinds of hours of labor, I was watching but didn't really know all the details.. So I removed the boost sensor, and found a chart that showed the different voltage values for sensors for the ASET 'C'.. I discovered that the sensor that was correct, used 1.5 volts more than the in-correct sensor, causing the EECU to open the VGT early.. $65.00 part, that cost over $8000.00 to find, this was in 2008... I'm just posting my experience. Jojo

yep The ASET CEGR series has that valve, I had replace one a few months ago, because it was sprung inside. jojo

I am not saying that the #3 hole doesnt have an issue, just talking about EUP swap, I see the oil leak is upward on the manifold, possibly an issue in the cylinder, because usually the stud is oily, however, I havent seen it all... jojo

the oil leak on the lower exhaust stud is not a head gasket. the lower studs are live into the pushrod, bore.. so if they are not sealed good or old, they will let oil seep out. swapping the EUP is good way to see if it follows, remove the return fitting from the block to drain the fuel out of the gallery then swap EUP's. take some emory cloth and touch up the ends of the fuel lines and blow some break clean thought the line to purge any debris out. when you install the lines, torque the lines to about 35-40 lbft, back them off a half a turn then torque to 25lbft.. just wing it... it's no biggie.. to bleed the lines,,, leave the nut at the head loose and prime the hand pump until fuel comes out of the lines, wait for the air bubbles to stop, then tighten that line, using the same torque procedure,( Torque conditioning) pump the primer again for each line that is loose. 2 will fire the engine, but 3 is better... jojo

since it's deleted,,, well.... who know's.. you playing with fire by having it deleted... jojo

shut off the 'grade gripper 'feature and try it again.... jojo

yep.... 8,000 troop's on standby, along with munition's to help secure the Ukraine border.... Meanwhile our southern border is wide open, with the worst of the worst 'walking in' and getting free transportation to 'Anywhere U.S.A.' paid for by Us... What the F..k?? jojo

'F' you are too kind.. Hell.... even a blind squirrel find's a nut once in a while... It's a team effort.. And that's the best part.... jojo

is this the little valve in the coolant filter housing? it looks like a lever.. If it's one i'm thinking of, I have a hook for my slide hammer to jerk it out of there then go back in with the new one once you look for debris like a piece of the old o-ring. to avoid draining the coolant, you can have a helper hold a shop -vac over the filler hole and apply suction to the tank. do not seal it to the tank, use youre hand to maintain a 1/2" space between the vac and the filler neck. when you pull the valve out, the vac will suck air into the hole rather than allow coolant to gush out. of course you will need to burp the system when its done.. just an option here,,, jojo

Awesome!!!

Too bad our King isn't concerned about our country's border's, like he is about Ukraine's Border... Jojo

That's the Damned truth !!!

Ox50,,,, Meet (FJH).... He always pull's out a good approach to a problem. From what I can see here, he take's the time to study the issue and then post some real smart sh!t.... jojo

the steel pipe from the compressor tends to build up with carbon and blocks the flow.. i bet its restricted.. you may be able to take it out and throw it in the firepit and burn it out, or just replace it.. its expensive, and hopefully still available.. lately, common parts are a bitch to get... jojo

I jut saw the truck again... Spoke wheels?? what country are you in? no biggie, just curious..

I forgot to ask about power steering performance in my last question..jojo

are you having issues with building good air pressure in the tanks and maintaining the pressure?

For Sure.... thanks Bob

I know I just said I was out.... I was wondering if the after treatment ECU is trying to read the 2 differential pressure systems? EGR/DPF? How do you 'lie' to them so they think they are doing a good job? jojo

ok... well to be honest, I know nothing about deletes other than they breed future problems.. with respect, I am backing out of this post... good luck sir, Jojo

you reckon.... programming is the issue? do you need a 'file' that supports the delete? I really don't know what the 'f' i'm asking here but it seem's to make sense.. jojo

that screen looks like Premium Tech Tool... there are calibration tasks in the program, I dont know about deletes, but do you still have a DEF system? or is this an '09 before DEF? to calibrate the VGT. you have to remove the accuator and run a calibration then install it to the turbo... (B.S.) there is also a gauge to check/set the 1/4 gear into position.. jojo