Joey Mack
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Everything posted by Joey Mack
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just a thought,,,, yes non mack spinners can fail... i witnessed a napa filter explode once,,, i couldnt belive it... anyway, check the spinner spindle... the filter has brass bushings, however,,, these filters spin out grit,,, anyway, like I said, just a thought.. i have only replaced a few metal housings due to spindle wear, usually they are crushed from over tightening and become egg shaped. Merry Christmas.. Jojo
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E7 460 Jake Brake Oil Pressure Loss?
Joey Mack replied to longshipconstruction's topic in Engine and Transmission
8 Ball/ Mack tech has a real fix..... I'm assuming you checked the core plugs on the ends of the rocker shaft also... they pop out, but also can get canted... Jojo -
E7 460 Jake Brake Oil Pressure Loss?
Joey Mack replied to longshipconstruction's topic in Engine and Transmission
Hello, Mainah,,, The .021 lash is correct... When the update was done, The Jake reset screw were replaced with an armolly pin set... 215SB321 kit... Then the lash was set to .021... they tried .017 before that.... P/S. I lived in ME. for 25 years,, graduated from Gray New Gloucster high school, in cumberland county... Merry Christmas -
E7 460 Jake Brake Oil Pressure Loss?
Joey Mack replied to longshipconstruction's topic in Engine and Transmission
sounds to me like a 690 brake that wasnt drilled for the top oil feed update.... I wonder who still has the drill jig to bore the oil gallery right... ??? i did a bunch of these about 18 years ago.. this plus a high pressure oil pump was the cure... however... mack got it right with "Powerleash" after that... as far as the check valve.. the others are correct... there was 5 pieces that had to be removed from the jake head, all replaced by the one check valve that replaced the allen headed delivery valve......Phhewwww. I just pulled that out of my.....A@#s.... correct me if im wrong... Go Bulldog!! Jojo.. Merry Christmas! -
Hello GOOG.... My customer owns Parade Pieces.... He doesnt work them like you and others... Thats what I meant about Un -nessessary work... Just like storkmack said,,, its cost effective to switch... I hope you have a great holiday season... Jojo...
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No not at all... Im sorry if it came out like that.....
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Howdy, Diesel man..... I'm also new here,,, ,, Bring the knowledge on the Volvo/Macks... There are a lot of folks needing guidance on them...... Of course it's all about the exhaust system, starting at the turbo, or is it 'in Sweden'?// anyway, just having fun ... Welcome to the show, Jojo
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I live in Salisbury, N.C. for the last 15 years.. I was a driver for a few years,, O.T.R. and then local construction,1998-2002... in Maine driving late 70's R models and Dm's... Ive been fixin them for 21 years now... just fixed an 8LL today in a 99 VHD... I have an Isuzu NPR that i use for my mobile truck repair. I am a 1 man show... Thanks for checking in... Stay in touch, Jojo
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I'M chuckling.... I have a customer having me convert his 1986 RW to Budd's with "in-board" drums.... Why????? just keep the spoke wheels... anyway,,, just laughing about un-necessary work... Go Bulldog...Jojo Merry Christmas!!
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"F" is right.... I have done these "in-chassis" on RD's.. DM's.... and 1 MR concrete pumper with dual steering... It's hard work.... Of course i've done plenty in CH'S and CL's... dual exhaust adds to the challenge.... anyway,,, listen to "F" from Canada... He/She has a boatload of knowledge..... Merry christmas.. Jojo
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If the "high range" gears disengage regardless of splitter position,,,,, the clutching teeth in the synchro are junk...... see: Mark T, and D.C Weasel above... Merry Christmas..:) Jojo.. The synchro in a mack tranny. is a huge version of a motorcycle clutch with a basket on both sides... there are special holding tools to use to do this repair in-chassis... if you dont have the tools, then pull the tranny and stand it on its nose on 2'.... 6x6 blocks.. Remove the yoke, and the rear shift cover, and range fork cylinder, then you can unbolt the back box and lift it straight up..... when you rebuild the synchro, pay attention to the "R" stamped in the basket...(REAR) Then alternate your discs,, friction disc, then fiber disc, then friction disc...... on both sides... this gets tricky... when you install the hub.. .. timing the countershafts is easy.... there are clear marks or you can just use the keyways... it all divides by '3'..... let me know if you need more info Jojo
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did you clean the 2 grounds behind the dash? one is behind the instrument cluster,,, pull the cluster and look to the bottom left...you will see a few ground wires with a star washer under the 6mm bolt... remove the wires and clean the cab frame member, also look for glue on the eyelets from the heat shrinks.. it can get between the eyelets and weaken the connection...if you reuse the star washer, make sure it at makes a good connection... do the same thing behind the fuse panel cover on the right side dash.. pull the cover and look to the left of the bottom of the fuse block, there you will see another ground wire group... both sets of wires will be black... this repair has been the cure for 9-2 codes in the past...along with the frame ground at the left frame rail behind the steer tire, and follow it to the engine block where you will see a 15/16' bolt.. clean these very good... i have found the block ground bolt loose many times in my time.. Good luck Jojo
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Hey Dalton, I was wondering what part of Maine youre in. I lived there for 25 years before I moved to N.C. I graduated from Gray New Gloucster High school in '87.. I also worked at Maine Mack in Portland/ Westbrook from 2000-2006...Merry Christmas, Jojo
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Hello there, I am currently building an ENDT-673.. (1960..ish) I have disassembled 3 total engines to get the parts I need. The first was an END-673,,{no turbo} The head bolt pattern is different, there is only 18 bolts per head. I was able to salvage a pair of 20 bolt head for the current engine block I am using. I had a machine shop take my 2 good 18 bolt heads and use the valves to help rebuild the 20 bolt heads. I am not very knowledgeable about e-6's like i am with e-7's and e-techs, but i learned this, which saved me from buying wrong parts and head gaskets. I hope i helped you in some way, Jojo
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2009-2010 mack cxu m7 any typical major problems?
Joey Mack replied to daniel24lee's topic in Engine and Transmission
Unplug the oil level sensor on the left side of the oil pan.. if oil is in the sensor side... you are "wicking" oil up to the EECU... the oil will be pulled to the EECU with the electrical path... It just carries it.... at the EECU, Unplug the Harness' .. If you see oil in the plug and or sockets... It has "Wicked" oil.... this will cause a boatload of codes... Oil by itself cant conduct electricity, but because there is fine metal dust in the oil due to engine wear, it now becomes conductive,,,, Mack/Volvo made a short anti wicking harness for this... but I've done many engine harness replacements because of this... Then the codes are reduced or gone... Jojo -
If it has an EGR cooler below the huge turbo....Then it's a CEGR..... "Cooled EGR" ASET..... "Application Specific Engine Technology"... ASET... If There is no EGR cooler and a basic turbo.. Then it is an...IEGR engine... Internal EGR... Still an ASET.... Of course I would rather have the IEGR.... There's no module, air pressure feed, and filter to get clogged, also no EGR tubes with sensors in them.... Blah, Blah, Blah...... anyway..... The CEGR version is the nightmare.... Good luck... I've done a bunch of turbo/ EGR repairs to these... and the IEGR engines of the same years just keep running... Keep the oil fresh and the valves adjusted, fix exhaust manifold leaks, and drive on!!
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Yes sir there is.. on one of the stands... I'm sure I can press them carefully, but I just wanted to be sure, Thank you for youre comment.. Merry Christmas! Jojo
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I want to disassemble my (ENDT 673) rocker shafts so I can inspect and clean them.. can i just press the pedastils off, (carefully) or do I have to heat them to get them off.....or?????? please advise me on the best way. I only have 2 assemblies, and i do not have a crappy one to practice on...😜... Jojo
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That is the engine shut down warning.. check coolant level..... Is the "lightning bolt " lit too? If so you can flash the codes using the cruise control buttons,, count the flashes then go to the "web" and look them up.. The codes are in pairs...For example... 8 flashes then 3 flashes... 8-3... This would be for EUP #3...count all flashes until it repeats. Have a pencil and paper ready...Almost forgot..... The light must be on with the key on, and cruise control is "off" then push the bottom of the speed control rocker switch once, and the light will start flashing...start counting!!
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I agree about using the torch to cut the clutch brake out.. definately air chisel the bulk of the clutch brake... when you get to the center lock ring.....which will be the only piece left.... if you are good with a HOT torch... you can burn through it quickly, then barr the engine 180 degrees, and hit it again....just be quick and HOT... i have done many of these without melting the input seal....Go Bulldog!!!
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Get rid of the M-Drive...!!!!!! Trust me!!! I was a mack Tech For years.... I'm really a mechanic.... The M-Drive is junk!!, Clutch issues, Speed Sensor issues, The slightest wiring issue will leave you stuck, and in some cases the truck will not turn over, so you may just freeze youre butt off this time of year when it decides to act like a woman... WHY would we drive trucks that require software updates as often as our home computers...? These machines are meant to be DRIVEN... Good luck Sir.... Jojo.... P.S. Keep the E-7!!
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I used to be dispatched out of Mehoopany, P.A. in '98... other than the smell of the P&G paper plant , it was beautiful country.. For what its worth,,, I will always be A Grey motor Guy.... Theres too much going on in the MP/Volvo D series.. Good luck with the MP.... They get expensive quickly..
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Thanks again, Rich....I will keep going with what I have for now.. They are in good condition, otherwise.. If I cant make it happen, I will contact you.. I remember, you tried to help me with The TRD-72 tranny I was redoing.. Thanks, Jojo
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Thank you for you're input... I will just keep them soaking.. I think I will bake them on the grill for a while and see if I can rod them out.... It's just strange to me why the oil hole is so small and the recess in the bearing cup is around 1/8" ....Anyway... Thanks again... Jojo,,
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hey there..... I was looking at youre picture... looks like a CL.... Is it A 454, or A 460, or 460XT??? Damn nice truck... Im currently working on a couple of RW's Rather do this than work on a Volvo/Mack... Jojo
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