Joey Mack

Yes it is......

I just noticed your picture. I've been to the top of Mt. Washington twice.. I went up on a motorcycle once, it was great!. Jojo

is there oil on the compressor side of the turbo? (the outlet)

I'm glad you saw this Glenn... I tried to help without steering him the wrong way. jojo

Just type "Kent Moore J 37077-1" and it will come up... good luck..

I found this tool for sale. $430.00... I will keep looking... none on E-Bay right now.. Jojo

The light basically times the pump for removal, bench timing, and installation. so if the light indicates the pump is timed and you bolt it to the engine that is timed as well, in theory, they should be timed. I know you know that, just saying.

this is the tool.. #37077. I was told once that you dont need this tool, you can just look in the hole for the timing marks (teeth). I have never done that, so therefore I am not comfy with it. Mabey someone else can shed some light. To me, inj. timing is criticle, so I leave out as much room for error as possible, and use this tool.. I've yet to burn up an engine or build a wimpy one, just saying...Jojo

Proper valve adjustment is a "Must"!

quick fix.. make sure the new hose can handle heat.... no wimpy hose

That is awesome... Good luck Adam.. Lots of good guys here to chat with and get advice from... Jojo

Do you have this book? Page 71 has the info. Hopefully you can read the pic I posted. Is your injection pump ready to install? I am very rusty when it comes to inj. pumps, since I may do one every 5 years or so. But basically, with the pump off, you set the timing mark on the the flywheel . Lets say the timing is 5 degrees, you set the flywheel to 5 1/2 degrees. then with the Kent Moore timing tool, you rotate the pump til both A+B lights are lit at the same time. then install it to the engine. Install 2 bolts in the pump drive gear. re-install the timing tool, and back the engine up about 30+ degrees, and rotate it clockwise slowly until both lights are on at the same time, look at the timing mark on the flywheel at this time and should be right on 5 degrees. If timing is off, roll the engine back again, then forward to the correct timing mark on the flywheel,,, loosen the 2 bolts in the pump gear install 2 long bolts in the 2 open gear holes (unless you have the spanner tool), and use a long screwdriver or skinny bar to rotate the pump ( do not let the engine roll over) until both lights are lit. lock it down, then roll it back 30+ degrees again and then clockwise til lights come on, then timing should be right... I don't know of another, better or easier way,. Mabey someone else can fill in any blanks i created, Jojo

The 45-0 degree is there for pump timing. there were many settings for pumps based on year, HP, and turbo. It's passed my bedtime, but tomorrow i can post pics from my E-7 book.. Just curious??? is there also a timing indicator on the front of the engine at about 12 O'Clock above the balancer? It will have 2 tabs pointing forward... Looks like "Fangs"... Jojo

HELP!!!! I have an '86 RW713... I need A V.I.N. ( the last 6 digits is enough) from a Superliner with Mack rears. 92/93 series.44K susp. The Brake shoes are 4515's.. I am converting spoke wheels to Budd's. I am trying to buy 4 drums for this truck. They are, 10 hole in-board's..... Thank You, Jojo

W.T.F.?? Yes "V" we need to see a pic..🤔 Jojo

OK....I've been here before.... What I did was go to the pressure switch behind the pedals. "T" in a 1/8" NPT "T" buy a low air pressure switch and install it in the "T".. its the same switch that turns the brake lights off when air pressure is up. i put the extra switch in in the case the original goes bad, I don't lose 2 functions... you can buy a buzzer for a late 90's CH ( it's a green square thing) It has a positive and negative post. so you just need to figure that out, and wire it into the switch and zip tie it above the pedals some where... you can also put a 10amp fuse in a holder in-line if you feel the need to protect it. it will buzz until pressure reaches about 85 PSI... it takes about an hour to do this, you can "mock" the whole thing on the work bench and then install it into the "T" fitting. I think those buzzers are less than $30.00 so for around $50 bucks you will have a buzzer, thats replaceable.... Jojo P.S. 880joe is right about one or the other low air warnng.. dont know what The D.O.T. officer was thinking, ..

Ok.. I'm out.... but I will keep looking at this post... I hope to learn something here... Jojo

Any chance you have a pic + model year? I'm about to learn something and I know some people with Old macks and have trucks tucked in the trees at thier shops... Jojo

✌️

that sucks....

Ok,, this is a new one for me, when its installed on the truck, align the big arrow to the pitman arm, jack up the front end and turn the wheel all the way both ways and check the range of movement.(engine off)... i'm not sure how it could be off 180 degrees, the sector shaft is only a 1/4 round gear, driven by the input shaft (worm gear)... someone here may have been through this, hopefully they chime in.. When you do get it right, you may have to set the plungers to get the best out of the steering, we will get to that later. Jojo

I'm surprised the re-man center, didnt grind the wrong one off...

The small arrow is the manufactuerer mark, the other is someone's scribe... the small one is it...

Got it.. Same crap here too... jojo

Just curious, "F"??? When they fix it, do they know how and why? Because when I was in the Dealership, I saw that.. Even as A customer, I could'nt get a good explanation on how it was fixed. Of course the MIL light would come back on a short time later..