Joey Mack

very good.. Just a thing here that I was taught by an old timer... To be sure you are 'up' on #1..... the Exh. rocker on #2 will be 'Rocked' ( pushing down)..... That s how I know I'm right.. I am not saying that my way is the only way, but...... my way works..... Jojo

If I may??? do you know how to run the rack properly?? No dissrespect here.. jojo

and it may very well be a blown int. or exh. gasket... but still... when you found the EUP issues, you truly beat the devil before he showed his horn's..... I feel like youre approach for this issue is pretty good. I'm sure others will agree... jojo

just for kicks, take the belts off of the engine when engine temp is at the point when the noise is there,,, cold or hot... run it for a few minutes and listen... jojo

Good luck Vlad, let us know if the tire balancer idea worked for 'checking' balance.. jojo

the pointer is in a different direction, I expect the orientation of the timing marks to be different. I'm sorry I do not have a diffinative answer. this is not something I have done, i've only ever used the correct pointer for the engine.... Jojo

Thanks, the hubs are tapered to fit wheels that fit small cars, isnt the hole in the balancer about 2 1/2" ? similar to a hub on the front of a 2WD pick-up for example.. anyway, we may find out soon.. jojo

Well Vlad,,, I tried for a half hour to find an E-6 balancer. there is one listed on E-Bay, here in the states, but it looked rough. I was wondering if you took it to a tire shop and have them chuck it up in a tire spin balancer and run it a few times to see if it's out of balance? Just a thought... jojo

yes sir.. the 'Stand' pipe update for the compressor head. we removed the steel tube and nut's with the rubber ferrels in them and replaced it with a #6 JIC stand pipe that went about 3" into the block, in the case casting sand was still not flushed out, the end of the pipe would be above the sand sediment. and we made a short hose to the compressor and replaced the fitting in the compressor head... jojo

the engine will run good,, but we were always taught to enter the codes, especialy when changing several of them... I also beleive it is required for warranty, of course, Warranty is just a word, and rarely ever an action.. ...jojo

I expect that you will record the serial numbers and calibration codes on each EUP/Cyl. and have Mack program them into the EECU?,, jojo

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well there,,, did you look at the cam lobes in the EUP bores? Good luck man, you may have caught this before the BIG problem happens.. jojo

so the oil is leaking from the dampener? It's junk... Sorry Vlad.... jojo

Very logical, Paul.. jojo

I did a head repair on a CL 15 years ago. I think the truck was a '98.. i've worked on a few '86'ish RW's recently .. Hell the 350 did a better job in my basic opinion.. "6 in-a-row,, makes it go"... anyway, just my thought's... jojo

yep.... know that too.... ok, so I'm not wrong... 🤣

I have grounded the EECU a few times in the passed to ensure good grounding of the EECU.... anyway, MarkT is right... I have always said,,," you can't have too many ground's"..... jojo

yeah I knew that, just curiuos how AB is in the clear.... still not loosing sleep, just curious... jojo

the EECU...

All I hear is 'Crickets' on this news story...... Wonder why?????? (not talking about us here).... jojo

I understand, the Kung flu kicked my butt in March and it definately got in the way of my thinking, speech, and concentration.. I also forgot that I ran valves on an E-7, (1990) 2 weeks ago and i used timing marks on the dampener... it also had both timing pointers. anyway, as long as our guy doesnt try to re-write the book, he should be fine.. jojo

Glenn, I was hoping you would show up.... you always fill in my blanks, i learn from you every time... jojo

doesnt the 4-valve dampener have 'TC' seperate from 1-6? therefore creating (4) timing marks, not including the degree scale.. ? I would stick with the correct dampener. are you setting the injection pump, or running the valves, or both? there should be 2 pointers, one for the valves and the other for the inj.pump... Not sure if i'm helping here, but there will be more info coming from some E-6 veterans,,, jojo

so youre fan has the little brass control vale on the left side of the radiator, right? If so, under normal conditions, when you shut the engine off, (air pressure above 90 psi), the fan blade will spin until the 7 second electrical shut down time is up, then the blade locks. if so, it locks when power is taken away. is this happening, the fan locks when power is off to the celenoid... Bare with me on this, and yes the A/C is connected to the system. power should be at the pressure switch waiting for the switch to react to pressure, which will turn the fan on to cool the grill condensor.. I hope some of my friends here fill in any blanks I have, jojo