Joey Mack

it's funny how i'm forgetting the sizes, when I change steering boxes and injectors in e-tech's often, I can go right to my tool box and grab what I need first try, but forgot the sizes for this post. i'm going to go to my service truck and dig out the tools.... Too funny, jojo

I may have made a boo boo again.. is it 5/8" and you use a 7/16" bolt... unbelievable..... i just did this 3 weeks ago and my brain just 'farted' I hope you get what i'm saying.... Too funny to me.... jojo

here is a sample... sometimes I put a spot of weld on them to make sure it will hold, especially if im taking a pitman arm off, and on... If it breaks when the job is done, so-what.. or just buy the real socket. I guess it depends on how much downtime you can afford.. I guess this is my Boyscout way of getting the job done.. Jojo

9/16" i made an allen socket of sorts with a 3/8" bolt and a regular nut and a lock nut and screwed them on the bolt and jammed them really tight in a vise, so they can take the 50 lbft of torque... jojo

here lately, the only one's talking about this story is us... I'm not disrespecting 'us'..... it just seem's to have gone away, from Lib news... am I wrong? anyway, Is this gun loaded? YES..... jojo

Just a side note here... my thought's. One thing I love about this web site, is that people from around the world can get together and help 'one-another' .. What a great forum! You go B.M.T. ..... Jojo..

yep.... it's all good right? jojo

You can remove the small pan that contains the foot valve. 13mm socket to remove the ring of bolts and the seats. when you get the brake pedal off the base, you can cut the foot valve bolts off. the pedal base is likely junk at this point. when the valve is detached, you can pull the pan .. then buy all the speed nuts for the ring of bolts as needed, and the 2 speed nuts and screw's for the heel plate. leave the valve connected and mark the lines 'well' so when you swap valves, you don't end up scratching youre head. these pans are farely thick, and with a Mini MIG welder, you can repair them. of course there arent any pics of the damage. before I forget, pull both seats out, it's a heck of a lot easier to move around in that tight cab. Keep in touch, Jojo

the days of having a "Set of Balls" is over......Holy Hell !!!!! what a bunch of Fa$s

just for kicks, look up 'stealth brakes' this may be one of those rare cases.... I barely remember them add on to assist the crapy dynatards.... I could be all wrong here, but..... jojo

forgot one.... McMahon truck, Charlotte, N.C..... 704-597-1240, ext #2 at each of these locations.. jojo

Transource... Greensboro, N.C. 336-996-6060... Have you called Watt's mack?

no sweat.. clean the injector bore really good. assemble the injectors/ o-rings and base seal, line it up with the notch and tap it in to place. torque the cap to 45- 50 lbft. then install the fuel lines according to Mack spec... they are 'torque conditioned' on install.. basically 45lbft, then back it off and torque to 25lbft... supposed to have a crowfoot wrench and the formula to do it right.... whatever...... pull 45 then back them off and then pull 25+ just use your skilled hands... jojo

your name is Bullheaded, but your words are real... I'm bullheaded too... (Taurus). and I guess I'm an a-hole too... not saying you are an A-hole..... Don't care about the F'n P.C. B.S. I am so sick and tired of wallking softly around these wimp's.. I have more to say, but won't right now... jojo

what you are posting is about the injector cup... the injector only nee a light lube like assmbly lube to lube the o-rings and hold the seal ring in place for installation.. so what are you actually replacing? jojo

No sir. Can you probe the fuse's with a test light to see which ones dont light up on both sides, leave the key on so that most of the fuses will be live, then when you find the ones that are not hot on both sides, remove them to inspect them. there are little openings in the top of the fuses that you can stick the test light to.. jojo

no you are not wrong.... I get surprised at time's when I thought the parts would interchange.... what it does, is tell me I don't know what I thought I know... anyway... you do have 2 E-9's.... that is great... like I say a lot.... there is a lot of guy's here that know a boatload more than I do... your in the right place,... jojo

yes you can ... these hinges are a bit tough to change out so make sure the replacement hinge is tight... I suggest doing the bottom one first, and getting a helper or damn good bungies or rope to hold the door to do the top hinge.. jojo

there is a part number in the corner of the decals,,,, ( I really miss data plates) if you can see the part number.... record it and the full V.I.N. and go to your Mack/Vulva dealer and pay the $50.00 fill out the form and get the replacement data decal/plate.. Here in N.C. a truck is requried to have a ledgible data plate.. I assume that it is nation wide... I have done this a few times for fleet trucks that I prepped for newbies to use to get their CDL... jojo

well this topic is a bit interesting to me, but i'm not loosing sleep .. when I read these posts, then hear the story on the morning radio show, then hear the story on the CBS evening news, I seem to be hearing different reports, IE: people walking off the set, the Armorer doesnt have knowledge about firearms, 1 shot fired, or people there heard 2 shots... anyway.. its a sad topic, and the A-Hole involved will have a scapegoat,,,,, that last part may be all i'm curious about... jojo

that sensor takes 5 minutes to replace, its plug in and go... it should be located near the bottom of the radiator, left side... keep in touch..Jojo..

good point Glenn..

I just watched another news story about this horrible event. I am no expert, however, I have a lot of experience with firearms. I heard that 2 people were shot. This movie set is for a western. so that tells me that the handguns were revolvers. I would expect the revolver to be a black powder revolver that has to be pre loaded and caps need to be placed on the rear of the cylinder, and the weapon is a single action revolver that requires the hammer to be pulled back before each shot can be fired, and the same is true if it was a revolver similar to a trap door revolver, which you load through the 'trap door' at the rear of the cylinder, with an encased bullet... like the one's we all know. I believe these handguns back then were also single action... so tell me???? after the first round was fired, and you realize you just sent a live round down range... What tells you to crank off another round? I welcome any and all corrections on what I posted. B.T.W. I own 2 single action revolvers, and they are "Modern" relatively speaking... Jojo

How do you get banned? Not trying to be a dumbass, but what did he do?

I have taken camelbacks apart and there weren't any "Twinkies" in the boxes, On some I have added them the repair. I'm with Terry on this one.. I also hadnt gotten a complaint after adding the "Twinkies" to springs that didnt have them..Jojo