Joey Mack

I am a Mobile Mack mechanic, I built an E-7 mechanical 3 months ago. I used PAI parts, RE-man heads (not from Mack) and a new radiator, (also not from Mack), new water pump, PAI, air compressor, i re-used the 6 month old turbo ,per customer request,,,, $10,500.00. He called me sunday to say all is good, Pulled his rubber tire backhoe loader 70 miles to a job site... says it cranks and runs good, no issues.... anyway my point is you can re-build it at a reasonable cost... the dealers here would charge $30,000.00 if they even have someone who knows how..

The EGR cooler just has coolant flowing through it to cool exhaust gasses. Keep in mind, oil pressure is higher than coolant pressure, you have a plate type oil cooler on the left side. I have seen these fail, oil usually gets in the coolant. What I have seen many times, was liners leaking into the crankcase. Of course, I havent seen it all..... For the cost of an oil change and 2+ hours of youre time, you can do what I suggested... If theres no liner leaks, smile BIG and check other places... Jojo

Hey there, That looks like coolant mixed with the oil. If you can let the truck sit for a day or 2, loosen the oil drain plug and see if water comes out first. no need to pull the plug, just get it very loose, coolant will run out around the threads... you can also drain the oil and drop the pan, pressure test the "full" cooling system to 20psi, and watch the bottom of the liners for coolant dripping.... good luck, I hope I'm wrong... Jojo...

yes sir... i was... Next time,,, I will pay closer attention to the question.... Merry Christmas, Jojo

engine mounts are different.. the front on an e-6 is a yoke that fits around a snout on the timing cover.. the e-7 is a larger yoke that mounts behind the balancer, it sits on a hard rubber block or 2 rubber round mounts.... the rear mounts are on the tranny, and i cant remember the e-6 type... sorry... The e-7 will have ears that mount to the tranny that sit on 2 'figure 8' shaped frame mounts with rubber bushings sandwiched between them... thats all i have right now... the throttle linkage may need some tweeking... ... Jojo

just a thought,,,, yes non mack spinners can fail... i witnessed a napa filter explode once,,, i couldnt belive it... anyway, check the spinner spindle... the filter has brass bushings, however,,, these filters spin out grit,,, anyway, like I said, just a thought.. i have only replaced a few metal housings due to spindle wear, usually they are crushed from over tightening and become egg shaped. Merry Christmas.. Jojo

8 Ball/ Mack tech has a real fix..... I'm assuming you checked the core plugs on the ends of the rocker shaft also... they pop out, but also can get canted... Jojo

Hello, Mainah,,, The .021 lash is correct... When the update was done, The Jake reset screw were replaced with an armolly pin set... 215SB321 kit... Then the lash was set to .021... they tried .017 before that.... P/S. I lived in ME. for 25 years,, graduated from Gray New Gloucster high school, in cumberland county... Merry Christmas

sounds to me like a 690 brake that wasnt drilled for the top oil feed update.... I wonder who still has the drill jig to bore the oil gallery right... ??? i did a bunch of these about 18 years ago.. this plus a high pressure oil pump was the cure... however... mack got it right with "Powerleash" after that... as far as the check valve.. the others are correct... there was 5 pieces that had to be removed from the jake head, all replaced by the one check valve that replaced the allen headed delivery valve......Phhewwww. I just pulled that out of my.....A@#s.... correct me if im wrong... Go Bulldog!! Jojo.. Merry Christmas!

Hello GOOG.... My customer owns Parade Pieces.... He doesnt work them like you and others... Thats what I meant about Un -nessessary work... Just like storkmack said,,, its cost effective to switch... I hope you have a great holiday season... Jojo...

No not at all... Im sorry if it came out like that.....

I'M chuckling.... I have a customer having me convert his 1986 RW to Budd's with "in-board" drums.... Why????? just keep the spoke wheels... anyway,,, just laughing about un-necessary work... Go Bulldog...Jojo Merry Christmas!!

"F" is right.... I have done these "in-chassis" on RD's.. DM's.... and 1 MR concrete pumper with dual steering... It's hard work.... Of course i've done plenty in CH'S and CL's... dual exhaust adds to the challenge.... anyway,,, listen to "F" from Canada... He/She has a boatload of knowledge..... Merry christmas.. Jojo

Bad synchro........

If the "high range" gears disengage regardless of splitter position,,,,, the clutching teeth in the synchro are junk...... see: Mark T, and D.C Weasel above... Merry Christmas..:) Jojo.. The synchro in a mack tranny. is a huge version of a motorcycle clutch with a basket on both sides... there are special holding tools to use to do this repair in-chassis... if you dont have the tools, then pull the tranny and stand it on its nose on 2'.... 6x6 blocks.. Remove the yoke, and the rear shift cover, and range fork cylinder, then you can unbolt the back box and lift it straight up..... when you rebuild the synchro, pay attention to the "R" stamped in the basket...(REAR) Then alternate your discs,, friction disc, then fiber disc, then friction disc...... on both sides... this gets tricky... when you install the hub.. .. timing the countershafts is easy.... there are clear marks or you can just use the keyways... it all divides by '3'..... let me know if you need more info Jojo

did you clean the 2 grounds behind the dash? one is behind the instrument cluster,,, pull the cluster and look to the bottom left...you will see a few ground wires with a star washer under the 6mm bolt... remove the wires and clean the cab frame member, also look for glue on the eyelets from the heat shrinks.. it can get between the eyelets and weaken the connection...if you reuse the star washer, make sure it at makes a good connection... do the same thing behind the fuse panel cover on the right side dash.. pull the cover and look to the left of the bottom of the fuse block, there you will see another ground wire group... both sets of wires will be black... this repair has been the cure for 9-2 codes in the past...along with the frame ground at the left frame rail behind the steer tire, and follow it to the engine block where you will see a 15/16' bolt.. clean these very good... i have found the block ground bolt loose many times in my time.. Good luck Jojo

Hey Dalton, I was wondering what part of Maine youre in. I lived there for 25 years before I moved to N.C. I graduated from Gray New Gloucster High school in '87.. I also worked at Maine Mack in Portland/ Westbrook from 2000-2006...Merry Christmas, Jojo

Hello there, I am currently building an ENDT-673.. (1960..ish) I have disassembled 3 total engines to get the parts I need. The first was an END-673,,{no turbo} The head bolt pattern is different, there is only 18 bolts per head. I was able to salvage a pair of 20 bolt head for the current engine block I am using. I had a machine shop take my 2 good 18 bolt heads and use the valves to help rebuild the 20 bolt heads. I am not very knowledgeable about e-6's like i am with e-7's and e-techs, but i learned this, which saved me from buying wrong parts and head gaskets. I hope i helped you in some way, Jojo

Unplug the oil level sensor on the left side of the oil pan.. if oil is in the sensor side... you are "wicking" oil up to the EECU... the oil will be pulled to the EECU with the electrical path... It just carries it.... at the EECU, Unplug the Harness' .. If you see oil in the plug and or sockets... It has "Wicked" oil.... this will cause a boatload of codes... Oil by itself cant conduct electricity, but because there is fine metal dust in the oil due to engine wear, it now becomes conductive,,,, Mack/Volvo made a short anti wicking harness for this... but I've done many engine harness replacements because of this... Then the codes are reduced or gone... Jojo

If it has an EGR cooler below the huge turbo....Then it's a CEGR..... "Cooled EGR" ASET..... "Application Specific Engine Technology"... ASET... If There is no EGR cooler and a basic turbo.. Then it is an...IEGR engine... Internal EGR... Still an ASET.... Of course I would rather have the IEGR.... There's no module, air pressure feed, and filter to get clogged, also no EGR tubes with sensors in them.... Blah, Blah, Blah...... anyway..... The CEGR version is the nightmare.... Good luck... I've done a bunch of turbo/ EGR repairs to these... and the IEGR engines of the same years just keep running... Keep the oil fresh and the valves adjusted, fix exhaust manifold leaks, and drive on!!

Yes sir there is.. on one of the stands... I'm sure I can press them carefully, but I just wanted to be sure, Thank you for youre comment.. Merry Christmas! Jojo

I want to disassemble my (ENDT 673) rocker shafts so I can inspect and clean them.. can i just press the pedastils off, (carefully) or do I have to heat them to get them off.....or?????? please advise me on the best way. I only have 2 assemblies, and i do not have a crappy one to practice on...😜... Jojo

I agree about using the torch to cut the clutch brake out.. definately air chisel the bulk of the clutch brake... when you get to the center lock ring.....which will be the only piece left.... if you are good with a HOT torch... you can burn through it quickly, then barr the engine 180 degrees, and hit it again....just be quick and HOT... i have done many of these without melting the input seal....Go Bulldog!!!