Joey Mack

Mech. I know what you mean, and TJC.. drivers stare at their phones more than they do the windshield.. and if they are looking through the windshield, they are only looking over the edge of the hood.. I dont know why the "Smith system" is not taught anymore, Sometimes I wish they would post signs with the "Smith system" on billboards along the highway.. Not on one billboard, but on 5 individual ones so they arent trying to read all 5 at 80MPH... Mech. I have only a few years in a tractor trailer, running the East coast, I have driven through Hartford on I-84 about 100 times, on my route from (P.A. to Maine and back) maybe a bit less, dont remember,, but what I do remember is how many people changed lanes so often and would just go from left to right, or even right to left to grab the next exit, in a flash... and when the highway opened up to 12 lanes it still didnt seem like enough lanes... it's been over 5 years since I drove through there in my 4 wheeler.... and let's not forget I-290 in Worcester M.A. I always called it "The Worcester Raceway"... jojo

I wish I could remember how the air dryer is mounted on the Midliner.. If it's remote and not mounted to the tank, couldnt he just buy an AD-6 smaller air dryer and install it, then re-build the hoses, input/output, and route new ones? Just curious, and if this can be done then you will have a modern, easy to get parts for, air dryer... jojo

Im just glad my brain isnt 'washed'

yes and there is a primer that goes on the cups before install. Its good that you have the skills.. and the tools.. if you have access to 'Impact' you can print the book.. I did some years ago.. I myself stay away from these jobs in my business, because I do not feel comfy doing them outside of the dealership. and without PTT to check my work when its done... jojo

is it manual or auto shift? if it's a manual its probably an FRO 16 210C Metric.. the synchros grind during the range shift... if so, easy fix and not expensive.. make sure you replace both snap rings on the range fork shift rail.. and the drive hub on the main shaft coming out of the main box.. of course make sure the bearings are clean and re-useable.. if not, pull the tranny and send it to a re-builder.. jojo

1-4 should be ambient air temp 4-1 should be vss, speed sensor in the tranny output shaft.. correct me if i'm wrong... jojo

Can anyone tell me why we are advertising 'Turkish air lines ' on our mind sculpting T.V.'s??

you need to use a long 8mmx1.25 tap coated with grease to cut threads into the old cup then use a slide hammer to remove it. any loose threads that fall into the cylinder are expected to be burned up and spit out. there are 2 long wire brushes and a long stemed tool that accept's rollloc' brisstlebrush to clean the bores. there are also plastic cups to put in the injector bores to keep any debris including bristtles from the brushes from getting into the fuel galleries.. my point is... if you have not studied this procedure and do not have the tools to do it right.... you need to stop! do I need to continue with the whole procedure to remove/ and re-install the cam, and then the valve adjustment procedure? Jojo

yes you do... if you have copper cup's, the new kit will come with conicle cups and the injectors will have conicle seats.. do you have the Swagging tool to remove and install the cups? jojo

I like the challenge of driving backwards.. it takes skill and attention to ALL of youre surroundings.. I bet I can still get in a Mack and back it in... anyway, i'm just reminiscing... jojo

I remember back in 2000,, i had only been driving 2 years+,, I was driving a '79 R model with a 12 speed, and I also drove a '98 RD with an 18spd... I was so proud as a new driver, to be trusted with these machines.. We were doing a "Target Store " pre-load and service road... We had to back down the service road with our loads, and , no sh!t.. I payed close attention to backing, and could push those dump trailers all the way down that curvy dirt path, with little to no pull up's.. I was really proud of myself. to this day I always try to back into tight spots whenever I can. at that time I was leaving to go work at Maine Mack as "Mechanic".. one of the owners said that he was going to miss me, because, with my limited driving expereince, he said I was one hell of a driver... I left that full time job with my head held high. I decided to drive for them on my days off from Mack. Mostly what I did was site work, driving a 'yuke' truck/ cat wagon, and some small dozers and roller's.. I was very proud back then... I guess my point is... are the newbies proud of the incredible responsibility that they hold? Class 'A' means more than just the endorsement on the Driver's liscence... jojo

it certainly was a cool maneuver. If my Schneider driver trainer saw me scuff those trailer tires I would have been written up.. regardless if I docked right without hitting the other truck or anything else.. I love it... jojo

I wouldnt worry too much about giving away secrets on how to drive... "Driving" is/has been dumbed down for years.... So the tricks of the trade will likely fall on deaf ears.. Unless there's an 'app' they can put on their phone's... jojo

I'm curious too.. I just put a harness on an MP-8, and it was over 1500.00.. I did 1 Etech and 2 ASET's last year and I think they were around $1300.00... jojo

Here is the part number for the top oil feed system.. the drilling procedure is VERY IMPORTANT. if you 'miss', the Jake head is junk.. Jojo

255324911112 Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing. Here is a listing on E-Bay.. $75.00 OBO.. If you dont buy it, I will.... Jojo

I just went to my shop library.. My 2 midliner books do not have the info for youre issue. however, if you can find Mack book # ML526S, that may be the book you need.. good luck, jojo

Like Glenn said, Hook shop air to it, at the discharge hose off the compressor and try to find the leak, no need to run the engine and make noise. this way you can listen good to find the leak/s.. jojo

all good.. I have responded to a few old post's in the past, and probably will again... Jojo

I really thought NEO's post was current... ooop's... Dumb me.. jojo

I was wondering if youre Midliner has a steel pipe coming from the air compressor output/disscharge port.. Its been a while since I worked on one of those neat little cabovers.. if you have a metal pipe it may be clogged with carbon.. pics would be cool.... jojo

How about taking the dash panel off and following it from the gauge to where it goes through the firewall, my best guess is it goes to one of the buss bars on the top left corner of the firewall.. there should be 2 wires at the sending unit, one is a ground... jojo

Hey bud, 6-4 is a communication code for the 1939 line... it's the yellow and green 'twisted pair'.. check the pin condition and tension at the VECU, and at the Diagnostic port, under the dash above the clutch pedal.. check voltage at these 2 pins,, low side is about 2.5 volts and high line is about 5+ volts... I dont remember the exact volts but im pretty close.. there is also a triangular duetch plug on the firewall along with the many harness's near where the steering shaft comes out of the wall.. I know you said you can kick the panel and it changes the truck.. so maybe you missed something during inspection.. jojo

If he has Jacob's 690 head, the lash was changed to .021".. From .017" after a top oil feed update was done and the reset screws in the bridges were replaced with the 'Armoly' screws, and the check valve under the jake head was removed and replaced with the little screw in check valve. If these are not done then lash is .017" .. even after all of these updates, the engine brake still sucked, just not as bad. next: If you have "powerleash" you will see the celenoids are clamped directly into the rocker shaft's. they are sealed by 2 orings and the bail's that hold them in is 'it' usually a bad oring will cause the engine brake to operate all the time, however, it wouldnt hurt to check them, the bottom oring will stay in the hole, so you will have to pick it out. with this engine brake set up, the lash adjustment is different than for the 690 heads. Please post which engine brake you have. I assume Jacob's because of youre issue.. jojo P.S. correct bridge clearence adjustment and valve adjustment is really important. you may have pinless intake bridges, so no adjustment needed there..

Thank you to all that tried to help... I found a manifold.. Jojo