Joey Mack

Hello there, I am currently building an ENDT-673.. (1960..ish) I have disassembled 3 total engines to get the parts I need. The first was an END-673,,{no turbo} The head bolt pattern is different, there is only 18 bolts per head. I was able to salvage a pair of 20 bolt head for the current engine block I am using. I had a machine shop take my 2 good 18 bolt heads and use the valves to help rebuild the 20 bolt heads. I am not very knowledgeable about e-6's like i am with e-7's and e-techs, but i learned this, which saved me from buying wrong parts and head gaskets. I hope i helped you in some way, Jojo

Unplug the oil level sensor on the left side of the oil pan.. if oil is in the sensor side... you are "wicking" oil up to the EECU... the oil will be pulled to the EECU with the electrical path... It just carries it.... at the EECU, Unplug the Harness' .. If you see oil in the plug and or sockets... It has "Wicked" oil.... this will cause a boatload of codes... Oil by itself cant conduct electricity, but because there is fine metal dust in the oil due to engine wear, it now becomes conductive,,,, Mack/Volvo made a short anti wicking harness for this... but I've done many engine harness replacements because of this... Then the codes are reduced or gone... Jojo

If it has an EGR cooler below the huge turbo....Then it's a CEGR..... "Cooled EGR" ASET..... "Application Specific Engine Technology"... ASET... If There is no EGR cooler and a basic turbo.. Then it is an...IEGR engine... Internal EGR... Still an ASET.... Of course I would rather have the IEGR.... There's no module, air pressure feed, and filter to get clogged, also no EGR tubes with sensors in them.... Blah, Blah, Blah...... anyway..... The CEGR version is the nightmare.... Good luck... I've done a bunch of turbo/ EGR repairs to these... and the IEGR engines of the same years just keep running... Keep the oil fresh and the valves adjusted, fix exhaust manifold leaks, and drive on!!

Yes sir there is.. on one of the stands... I'm sure I can press them carefully, but I just wanted to be sure, Thank you for youre comment.. Merry Christmas! Jojo

I want to disassemble my (ENDT 673) rocker shafts so I can inspect and clean them.. can i just press the pedastils off, (carefully) or do I have to heat them to get them off.....or?????? please advise me on the best way. I only have 2 assemblies, and i do not have a crappy one to practice on...😜... Jojo

I agree about using the torch to cut the clutch brake out.. definately air chisel the bulk of the clutch brake... when you get to the center lock ring.....which will be the only piece left.... if you are good with a HOT torch... you can burn through it quickly, then barr the engine 180 degrees, and hit it again....just be quick and HOT... i have done many of these without melting the input seal....Go Bulldog!!!

Get rid of the M-Drive...!!!!!! Trust me!!! I was a mack Tech For years.... I'm really a mechanic.... The M-Drive is junk!!, Clutch issues, Speed Sensor issues, The slightest wiring issue will leave you stuck, and in some cases the truck will not turn over, so you may just freeze youre butt off this time of year when it decides to act like a woman... WHY would we drive trucks that require software updates as often as our home computers...? These machines are meant to be DRIVEN... Good luck Sir.... Jojo.... P.S. Keep the E-7!!

I used to be dispatched out of Mehoopany, P.A. in '98... other than the smell of the P&G paper plant , it was beautiful country.. For what its worth,,, I will always be A Grey motor Guy.... Theres too much going on in the MP/Volvo D series.. Good luck with the MP.... They get expensive quickly..

Thanks again, Rich....I will keep going with what I have for now.. They are in good condition, otherwise.. If I cant make it happen, I will contact you.. I remember, you tried to help me with The TRD-72 tranny I was redoing.. Thanks, Jojo

Thank you for you're input... I will just keep them soaking.. I think I will bake them on the grill for a while and see if I can rod them out.... It's just strange to me why the oil hole is so small and the recess in the bearing cup is around 1/8" ....Anyway... Thanks again... Jojo,,

The engine you have ,,, if it's a '99... Is An E-Tech... I remember the old timers I worked with 20 years ago, telling me that they were junk, the E-7 was the last of the "million mile engines" that Mack made..... Yes The E-7 is Great.... But after many years I have come to respect the E-Tech.... Yes, It had cam issues, caused by bad roller lifters... and some issues with the wimpy engine brakes....Mack tried to improve that with the "top oil feed" update.. it helped along with the improved oil pump.. I have drivin these trucks for years and ..."yes' built a couple dozen of them too... I wouldn't be afraid of owning one. After 2002, They went a little crazy with cermic lifters and spring loaded pushrods...Blah, Blah, Blah.... In my opinion.... You have the best one.. Too bad they didnt have the power leash engine brake on youre engine,,, That to me is what it needs...:) Jojo... Go Bulldog!!!

Thank you,Paul.... I have had them soaking in diesel for a couple of days.. I will get the solvent you mentioned.. I have 36 pushrods and was tempted to take a 1/16" drill bit and make my own holes... I'm surprised the oil hole is so narrow, since the oil back then wasnt as refined as recent oil... Correct me anytime... I like to learn from my mistakes.. I'm lucky enough to have customers that trust me to repair thier older Macks. Jojo

I should have said... the clog is at the rocker end of the pushrod.. just curious.... is the hole at the lifter end of the pushrod, there, to release pressure caused by heat? If the top cup is not an oil passage.?

I am inspecting my push rods, and i see a drain hole at the lifter end, and what looks like a hole at the rocker arm end, however,, they all seemed to be plugged up.. im guessing the hole is small and gets clogged with dirty oil... what is the best way to open them back up? I have to re use them, and otherwise, they are in good condition.. pushrod #1140.. Thanks, Jojo...

Hello, Im guessing you do not have mack svc manual 8-201??? The flow chart to diagnose your 4-4 or 4-5 code starts on page 132.. it would take me hours of typing to give you the info. If you do not have access to this book, text me at 704-785-1738.. I can scan the pages and e-mail them too you.. I have had this issue several tmes and the duetsch connector had weak connections. if you have the jumper harness at the pump that adds extra ops for loose contact. un plug it and gently tighten the pins with a pick or something pointy and strong, like a dental pick. there are realltools for this as well. anyway, gently tug on the wires to try to pull them out of the sockets. be extra careful on the governor harness. dont break it!! i have found the wires were frayed inside the plugs, usually because the plug was not secured in the yokes that hold them along with zip ties.. let me know if you need more info there are a ton of very smart people here to help you... Joey Mack.

I forgot to tell you about replacing the exh. rockers too.. text me if you need to.. Jojo

I bet... I called many places in the U.S. to find parts. Of course these machines that we love are phased out.. Thanks again for you"re interest.. Jojo

If you have ruled out air leaks and excessive usage. try bypassing the air dryer by hooking the 2 big lines together, then checking operation. it pressure goes up correctly, repair the air dryer. just a thougt.. Jojo..

As far as going to the dealer..... You may find that they don't know or don't care... I"m currently building a 1960 -ish E-6 2V.. and a TRD-72 transmission, and the 2 dealerships her, don't care... I found info ...Here.... Good luck..:)

Hello, I have done a few of these.. It's been a while.. The Jake heads should be a 680 series.. There are spacers that go under the valve covers. The wiring comes off the aux relay in the dash and goes to the switch that you will install in the center dash panel, then to the clutch switch, and then to a micro switch on the injection pump at the throttle lever.. the late 70 models i drove, required me to hold the clutch pedal gently, or flip the dash switch off to stop engine braking while waiting at the red light. There are a lot smart people here, that can fill in the rest of the blanks..... The system is a combo, of simple electrical, and a hydraulic system that the engine provides through the jake heads.. youre rocker shafts have plugs located at the #2 and #5 oil galleries that come up through block. they will be removed and 2 little check valves will be installed there, to feed the jake heads. also, the jake reset screw lash is based on the turbo you have. Some were set to .060" and .080" based on the turbo and H.P. Text me: at 704-785-1738.. I have the engine books and will try to answer questions... Jojo.

There is no comparison.... your "Volvo" has B.S. controlling fuel going in... and exhaust. coming out... The E-7, may be slow.. but its deliberate.. Keep it running as long as you can.. Hell, if the exhaust system gives you a problem, you will be able to smell it, and see it... Without the High repair cost, and having to explain why you cant do a re-gen to a tech.... Anyway... I m just having fun here... Go Bulldog!! Jojo

Hello,Rich...Thank you for your interest. I found the parts I need.. I appreciate your help. Mabey someday I will help you..Jojo..

Thank you very much. I'm sorry I posted late.Iv'e been busy..Jojo..