Joey Mack

The touch pad can be replaced. its plug in, and then a learn data re-set can be done. do you have PTT and a Vocomm box to do the programming? jojo

if you live in a cold climate you may be ok to drive for bit until the part gets here, but you have to get it fixed. are you not able to solder the harness back together, or solder in plugs so you can unplug it when other repairs need to be done? and you should look real close at the tensioner pulleys, to be sure they didnt cause the belt to walk off the pulley, and also check all other pulleys for movement that could cause the belt to come off. If the belt snapped, that tells me that the hood doesnt get opened much for inspection, you may want to start there first, and make sure pre-trip inspections are getting done.. the fan clutch you are about to buy is very expensive. good luck, Jojo

Have you looked at the left front where the large wire harness comes from the cab and bends around the the pivot point. I have made many repairs to wires there due to chaffing. MR's/LE's have a pretty fat wire harness in front. I can't remember it in detail like I used too. I havent worked on an MR in a few years. I always thought of these trucks as a wiring nightmare. I remember opening the the center console and krindging. Best of luck, Jojo

the manifolds are different where they bolt up, the E-6 (4 valve) is thicker, and the studs are around 5" long, the E-7 studs are around 3" long.. but I beleive the ports are the same, the gaskets look similar but the E-6 (4 valve)gaskets have 4 bolt holes instead of 2. Being truck specific, does make sense, and harder to get what I need.. the center section P/N is 104GC5124.. Jojo

Well Joe. now I'm curious.. Jojo

I dont use Indian Head any more, I have had many messes from it, too funny. and the dirt daubers caught me one day when I replaced a fuel line on a generator, and no gas came through to the filter. I was scratching my head,, thats when I learned about the little bastards.. too funny...jojo

Glenn, I'm glad you responded.. It helps me to think of questions, because I dont know or remember, and guy's like you have a ton of knowledge, on the E-6 + E-7's.. I have done a lot but, My knowledge starts with E-7 all the way through the E-Tech's, and a little bit of MP-7+8.. Thank you, Jojo

880 Joe, The one I need is in a Superliner.... Snowdog, and Glenn, Thank you !! I looked at 6 other trucks with E-7's. They all had Robert Bosch pump's and the center section was 90 degree's and not 45 degree's. Please correct me,,,, but is'nt the fuel line arrangement the reason why Ambach engines have the 45 degree turbo mount, and Robert Bosch has the 90 degree mount? I put a water pump on an 88 Superliner today. It had an Ambach and the manifold I need.. Thank's guy's for responding... Jojo

'mech' you made a tool that sounds like the actual kent-moore tool... I made them because the short bone wrench was $750.00... I bet the tool you made worked great, and I think the sealant you are talking about is called: "Indian Head".. really tacky, and stink's like ASS !! Jojo

Thanks terry, I tried them, none listed.. Thanks again,, jojo

Hi Paul, Here in the Southern U.S. We have "Dirt Daubber's" They pack everything with dirt.. I have to put plugs in the ends of my rolls of hoses and fuel lines, because they will fill it with dirt, some times 3-4 " up the hose, some of my air tools in my shop that don't get much use, have dirt in the air nipples, gotta cap those too... Jojo

No Sh!t !!! I mean,,,,,, well you know.. Jojo

I forgot to mention how tight of a space it is to get a large ratchet/breaker bar, inside the top reduction housing to tighten the sh!t out of those 2 inner bolt's. I have a 7/8' , 1/2" drive socket that I trimmed down to fit under the bevel pinion, so I can get a good pull on the bolt in that position, the other one can be hammered in place with a strong 1/2" drive impact, then pulled with a breaker bar.. the hard part is that there is a frame rail in the way...... Just get creative, and work on youre cuss word's, you'll need em' Jojo

I'm looking for an exhaust manifold center section or a complete manifold. The center section part # is: 104GC5124.. 1986 RW-713/ 001522 E-6 (4- Valve) With an Ambach Inj. Pump... Thank you, Jojo

cal codes are important, but the engine will run good without them. however when all is repaired, the cal. codes should be installed... 'F' is right jojo

'F' It's got to be great that you work in a shop that lets you make tool's. The last Mack dealership I worked in, had no interest in my tool making ability... It had to be a "MackVo" approved tool.. I still made tools when no-one was looking, and fixed what I could... One boost issue that I solved after a bunch of test drives and head scratching, was on an ASET 'C' eng.. The boost sensor that was replaced was the wrong part number for that engine and it would dump boost at 1500 RPM's consistently.. 2 guys worked on this truck for a month, and put aa turbo on it and an EECU, and all kinds of hours of labor, I was watching but didn't really know all the details.. So I removed the boost sensor, and found a chart that showed the different voltage values for sensors for the ASET 'C'.. I discovered that the sensor that was correct, used 1.5 volts more than the in-correct sensor, causing the EECU to open the VGT early.. $65.00 part, that cost over $8000.00 to find, this was in 2008... I'm just posting my experience. Jojo

yep The ASET CEGR series has that valve, I had replace one a few months ago, because it was sprung inside. jojo

I am not saying that the #3 hole doesnt have an issue, just talking about EUP swap, I see the oil leak is upward on the manifold, possibly an issue in the cylinder, because usually the stud is oily, however, I havent seen it all... jojo

the oil leak on the lower exhaust stud is not a head gasket. the lower studs are live into the pushrod, bore.. so if they are not sealed good or old, they will let oil seep out. swapping the EUP is good way to see if it follows, remove the return fitting from the block to drain the fuel out of the gallery then swap EUP's. take some emory cloth and touch up the ends of the fuel lines and blow some break clean thought the line to purge any debris out. when you install the lines, torque the lines to about 35-40 lbft, back them off a half a turn then torque to 25lbft.. just wing it... it's no biggie.. to bleed the lines,,, leave the nut at the head loose and prime the hand pump until fuel comes out of the lines, wait for the air bubbles to stop, then tighten that line, using the same torque procedure,( Torque conditioning) pump the primer again for each line that is loose. 2 will fire the engine, but 3 is better... jojo

since it's deleted,,, well.... who know's.. you playing with fire by having it deleted... jojo

shut off the 'grade gripper 'feature and try it again.... jojo

yep.... 8,000 troop's on standby, along with munition's to help secure the Ukraine border.... Meanwhile our southern border is wide open, with the worst of the worst 'walking in' and getting free transportation to 'Anywhere U.S.A.' paid for by Us... What the F..k?? jojo

'F' you are too kind.. Hell.... even a blind squirrel find's a nut once in a while... It's a team effort.. And that's the best part.... jojo

is this the little valve in the coolant filter housing? it looks like a lever.. If it's one i'm thinking of, I have a hook for my slide hammer to jerk it out of there then go back in with the new one once you look for debris like a piece of the old o-ring. to avoid draining the coolant, you can have a helper hold a shop -vac over the filler hole and apply suction to the tank. do not seal it to the tank, use youre hand to maintain a 1/2" space between the vac and the filler neck. when you pull the valve out, the vac will suck air into the hole rather than allow coolant to gush out. of course you will need to burp the system when its done.. just an option here,,, jojo

Awesome!!!