Joey Mack

Im waiting for him to tell me to rebuild it.... It runs great, I supported re-sealing every thing, the color will be red and black when its done.. He has a crew of talented guys that do these resto's for him. I'm proud to be part of it. I dont know how to paint, and my fab skills are ok, but the guy in the picture is one hell of a welder and fab guy. jojo

Of course after I did all this..... the owner says... pull the injection pump and nozzles and get them rebuilt... 🤣😂🤑

Heres my 'current' part in this project.. I wont go back until the injection pump is done, and hopefully an exhaust manifold will show up by then. Then I can get this done... I wish we would have pulled the engine and put it on the rotator stand that they have..jojo

I guess so. I drove 4 hours to get this truck, then drove it back.. good runner, needed a bearing in the tranny, and an alignment, but is reallydrove good. For the life of me, I dont know why the owner had hid 'fab' guys cut it up to make a single 'x' with a tag axle, gonna be a dump truck..

the knurled knob is exh. it unscrews. in rare cases I have seen them plumbed wrong. i beleive, that when you switch the supply line with the exh. port, you change the way the switch operates. usually the exh. port is in the side port, and supply in the top, delivery to the fan out the bottom. jojo

And theres nothing you can do about it either.. Its a strange feeling and sound... jojo

the control valve on the radiator frame uses 12 volts to unlock the fan ( air pressure needs to be above 90). when you take power away, and air pressure is up, the fan will lock. The fan control valve have 3 ports for air. 1 is air 'in' another is air 'out' and the other is exhaust. a black knurled looking knob. I believe air goes in the top, out the bottom to the fan, down to the bottom of the fan shroud, then up to the fan clutch. The valve has 2 positons for plumbing. 'normally open' and 'normally closed' is it installed correctly? I will try to find the wire diagram for youre older CH. for some reason I dont recall the sensor in the front manifold. I always see 2 sensors in the rear manifold, one facing the firewall and one on the side facing left. I'm curious about the wiring at the rear of the engine, as to what wires were cut or changed... jojo

I believe 1-4 is 'ambient air temp sensor' 4-1 is the speed sensor in the tranny tail shaft. I see you took an EUP apart, I dont know any one who has the 5 pointed torx bits that I have, too funny... Mack has a repair kit for that.. as far as getting fuel to bleed out of the lines at the head, it shouldnt be hard to do, loosen real good, pump hand primer til it bleeds, lock it down, go on to the next. Check voltage at fuse 41 while cranking the engine, if it gets below 10 volts, the EECM wont fire the EUP's.. so for now keep it simple, if voltage is low, I have a trick for that.. Jojo

its funny how those sparks know how to aim for youre ear,, it happened to me several times, and I still dont use ear plugs.. jojo

https://newsmanuals.com/download/mack-iii-8-211-v-service-manual/

I wish I knew MR's like I do CH,RD,Cl ect.. fuse 41 is the EECU fuse in the trucks I know, 25amp, check your's... jojo

great postings, JoeH... jojo

grounds......

ok.... 9-2 code is a bitch but simple to start with... clean all grounds,, dash panel grounds, starter ground, engine block ground, left side in front if the starter), frame ground, behind left steer tire, the ground breaker,, jojo

do you have any 8-? codes present? 8-1 through 6 is the EUP's.. 8-9 is basically all of them faulting.. jojo

well if you had fuel bleed at 4 of them , thats enough.. when the engine starts just hold the throttle down a little and wait for it to clear out, it will!..jojo

No ether!!!! loosen at least 2 fuel lines at the head, they are tough so pull on them... 2 turns is enough.. then pump the hand primer until fuel/ air bleeds out. lock that one down, pump again til the next one bleeds then lock it down... youre done.... the cam sensor does have a teardrop shim, however this engine will start and run on either sensor, but wont run good.. check the wires in the sensor plugs and make sure they are healthy.. the one in the flywheel housing is always in bad shape.. make sure the wires arent frayed or brokken, follow it up the loom to find the break, pull gently and hope for a break.. then fix it... jojo

yes JoeH.. you nailed it.. I can do a full set on a tractor in 2 hours. of course I have done at least 50 of these jobs. a truck with a body on it adds an hour or so, based on room to move and tooling because of the extra weight.. always use new hardware, and yes to torches,( they save time) I also have the 7/8" tap to clean the threads on the right side so that the bolts go right in.. (with anti seize) jojo

youre right, TJC.. Im more concerned about getting warning points here.. Dont want to mess up my good rep.. jojo

yep, and this D-Bag,, is talking about going after gun dealers here in our great country, and create new gun laws, but makes no mention of cracking down on criminals and criminal acts.. with thousands of cops leaving the force around the country, are we going to have to step in and do some house cleaning on our own? I bet if those of us "Real Americans" took care of these A-holes, the Biden clan would have no problem putting us in jail with no bail out option. unlike the 14,000 rioters that were arrested last year and let go with no bail.. What the hell is going on?? Jojo

Thank you very much Snowdog... Excelent info.. The E-6 that I am freshening is still in progress. it's is part of a complete truck conversion.. The owner calls me in to do Engine, tranny, rear ends, suspension, and some wiring... last week I removed the injection pump and sent it off to be rebuilt. I will make note of what you posted, and see what the truck does when its running. Thanks again, Jojo

remove the pyrometer, and hold a lighter to it to check the gauge operation. no need to run the engine. jojo

what is the issue that you are having?

the override switch is a momentary switch, to stop engine shut down due to low coolant warning, and other issues that i cant remember. behind the kick panel would be the VECU and FIC module if your injection pump is a Robert Bosch with an electric governor housing. the screws should be T-27 torx and yes can be stripped. they screw into speed nuts.. drill them out and start over. there are grounds behind the cluster and near the fuse panel behind the cover on the right side dash. There is also a ground on the frame behind the left steer tire, and at the engine block in front of the starter, and on the firewall there should be a ground breaker, bolted next to the starter relay. it's all black and is only a grounder. also when you turn the key on you should hear a loud click, that is the accessory relay in the dash, its behind the center panel, make sure all of the contacts are clean and tight... that should do it... go to the kick panel last. just because... jojo

look from the right side, clean the smooth slope of the carrier housing. it may be hard to see, have a can of brake clean, a rag, and a wire brush to scrub with. there should be a flat spot on the slope where the ratio is stamped. some of the stampings are dot's like from a prick punch that spell it out.. jojo