Joey Mack

I would rather have the X107 over the 2070.. Any day.. Of course I really like a 1070B.. jojo

looks like an x107?

yes sir... I know i'm new here, but have felt the same way. I even started a thread about it.. Oh well... Sometimes I think.... should I respond? or is this a waste of my time? I still respond... I'ts just in my nature.... jojo

I was just watching "Newsmax" and saw the 'blind- leading-the blind'.... WTF!!!! jojo

I want youre truck!!!! Dammit!!! I no longer live in moose country.... jojo

yes sir.. I drove one a bit newer back in the late '90's it had an 18 spd, it out pulled the newer E-Tech 427's in the fleet. the 18 spd. helped, but the other's were 13's.. I may be off a year, about the electric gov. maybe '94 was the first year.. anyway, catch you later, jojo

are you talking about the pyrometer? I had an issue with a CV some years ago, I installed a pyrometer that had a thermo coupler and gauge. I popped out the black plug that say's Mack on it , next to the air valves and installed it there, I think I went into the EECM and shut off the pyrometer setting... it's been a few years, but the pyro worked.. jojo

Thank you Paul... I figured the wiring was basicly reversed. it runs great, I just want to replace the wiring because the insulation is falling off, and the tree rats here love the taste of aluminum wires... And yes, Tino is awesome... I have another one named Charlie... I will post a pic someday. He's not as lively as Tino jojo

the intake bridge has a small arrow on the side, this indicate's 'out' flip it over to see the holes for the valve stems, one is round the other is an oval. May I suggest, dropping the oil pan and inspecting the cam.. if you hear something sliding in the pan when you drop it,, more than likely its a roller.... Definatley inspect the cam and lifters thoroughly.. good luck.. jojo

if you have power leash, you set the lash to .045" on the inner portion of the exh. rocker arm, and leave the feeler gauge in place, then set the rocker arm lash to .024". rotating the engine is the same procedure.. be absolutely sure you are on the correct cyl. when making adjustments. this engine has ceramic roller lifters for the valves. any 'slap' will crack the roller, then the cam will get chewed up, instantly after starting the engine. jojo

I pick at when I can... new glass and some rustoleum on the floor pan.. he runs really good, and strong, for an oldy. when I stab the throttle i can feel the torque.. I have to fix the brakes and replace the wiring, gonna leave the original wiring in place so folks can see how it was built.. I know I posted this in other threads, I guess I will just stay here.... Proud to have him, jojo

this Boy likes to ride!! Meet Valentino.... 'Tino' jojo

tThia

+ and - ??

yes sir, me too... I fixed an incorrect post I made,, the year and the engine dont match in my mind, so i fixed my post to match the engine I see and not the model year... jojo

I realized that I posted wrong info about the series, I fixed it. sorry,jojo

this is a V-Mac 1 truck. the sensors are: oil pressure, coolant level + temp, ... i probably forgot one or two. What has me curious, is the year, '98... I dont recall an all mechanical injection pump.. for some reason I thought that in 96 they were V-Mac II and had the electric governor housing and an F.I.C. module in the cab.. ok.. Jojo

10 years total at 2 different Mack dealers.. and the truck you have is one that I have worked on since they were born.. I luv em'... I work for myself as a mobile mechanic here in central N.C. for the last 13 years... I have worked for a few fleets that were Mack and Freightliner powered.. I don't mind telling my experience..... I like this site for many reasons, but a big one for me is that I learn a lot, and occasionally, I help someone.. I will try to keep my answers easy to understand ( no offence please).. . I also have a large library of Mack books. P.M. me anytime in the future... if you feel the need too.. Jojo

sounds good... I bet there is a loose connect in the circuit of (J1.26...).. jojo

you have access to some important info.. I bet you get it done... jojo

you too funny..

ok. eng. computer.. when looking at it. the plug on the right. there is a sharp steel bail that holds the plug in tightly. you can use spray lube to free it up, not too much. if any gets in the socket blow it out with air. when you release the bail, you lift up and tilt the plug to remove it, they have tabs on the end opposite the wires. you may still have a bolt holding the harness' together. remove it, you may need to unplug both of them to do this... no biggie, just be cautious... the vehicle computer is behind the steel kick panel in the cab , right side under the fuse panel.. T-27 torx bolts hold it on, pull back the floor mat to get the lower bolts.. jojo

i forgot... the J1 plug is the one on the right.

have you removed the J1 plug and inspect the pins? #26 specifically..do you have a helper who can watch the light, while you gently move the J1 plug while running ,without unplugging it?

no sweat.. if you have questions, post pics with them when possible.. The reason I posted about wire I.D. is to show you how helpful it is to follow the circuit. jojo