Joey Mack

That's what I'm talkin 'bout!!!! Jojo

are the batteries connected good? The truck you have has a pretty simple electrical system, so I feel like it will be a "loose" connection, rather than a 'paychecks' worth of parts thrown at it.. jojo

when you park it, leave it running and wiggle the key before you shut it down to try and duplicate the issue with the switch. you said "fully mechanical" so you have a "pull stop" to shut it down? jojo

I suggest you check the ground wires inside the dash, left side and right side by the fuse panel. also there is an accessory relay under the center section of the dash, you hear a loud click/bang when you turn the key on... this relay is similar to a riding lawn mower starter relay, or may look like a Ford starter relay, check the connections and ground. if you pull the ashtray out, you may be able to see it with a light. good luck, please post youre findings,, jojo

I'm Bow Tie through and through,,, but the ford 300 straight six is the Sh!t...!! especially with a manual transmission... Jojo

China....?

Thanks,,,, I laugh at myself often,, yes, a stress relief.. Jojo

it's funny how i'm forgetting the sizes, when I change steering boxes and injectors in e-tech's often, I can go right to my tool box and grab what I need first try, but forgot the sizes for this post. i'm going to go to my service truck and dig out the tools.... Too funny, jojo

I may have made a boo boo again.. is it 5/8" and you use a 7/16" bolt... unbelievable..... i just did this 3 weeks ago and my brain just 'farted' I hope you get what i'm saying.... Too funny to me.... jojo

here is a sample... sometimes I put a spot of weld on them to make sure it will hold, especially if im taking a pitman arm off, and on... If it breaks when the job is done, so-what.. or just buy the real socket. I guess it depends on how much downtime you can afford.. I guess this is my Boyscout way of getting the job done.. Jojo

9/16" i made an allen socket of sorts with a 3/8" bolt and a regular nut and a lock nut and screwed them on the bolt and jammed them really tight in a vise, so they can take the 50 lbft of torque... jojo

here lately, the only one's talking about this story is us... I'm not disrespecting 'us'..... it just seem's to have gone away, from Lib news... am I wrong? anyway, Is this gun loaded? YES..... jojo

Just a side note here... my thought's. One thing I love about this web site, is that people from around the world can get together and help 'one-another' .. What a great forum! You go B.M.T. ..... Jojo..

yep.... it's all good right? jojo

You can remove the small pan that contains the foot valve. 13mm socket to remove the ring of bolts and the seats. when you get the brake pedal off the base, you can cut the foot valve bolts off. the pedal base is likely junk at this point. when the valve is detached, you can pull the pan .. then buy all the speed nuts for the ring of bolts as needed, and the 2 speed nuts and screw's for the heel plate. leave the valve connected and mark the lines 'well' so when you swap valves, you don't end up scratching youre head. these pans are farely thick, and with a Mini MIG welder, you can repair them. of course there arent any pics of the damage. before I forget, pull both seats out, it's a heck of a lot easier to move around in that tight cab. Keep in touch, Jojo

the days of having a "Set of Balls" is over......Holy Hell !!!!! what a bunch of Fa$s

just for kicks, look up 'stealth brakes' this may be one of those rare cases.... I barely remember them add on to assist the crapy dynatards.... I could be all wrong here, but..... jojo

forgot one.... McMahon truck, Charlotte, N.C..... 704-597-1240, ext #2 at each of these locations.. jojo

Transource... Greensboro, N.C. 336-996-6060... Have you called Watt's mack?

no sweat.. clean the injector bore really good. assemble the injectors/ o-rings and base seal, line it up with the notch and tap it in to place. torque the cap to 45- 50 lbft. then install the fuel lines according to Mack spec... they are 'torque conditioned' on install.. basically 45lbft, then back it off and torque to 25lbft... supposed to have a crowfoot wrench and the formula to do it right.... whatever...... pull 45 then back them off and then pull 25+ just use your skilled hands... jojo

your name is Bullheaded, but your words are real... I'm bullheaded too... (Taurus). and I guess I'm an a-hole too... not saying you are an A-hole..... Don't care about the F'n P.C. B.S. I am so sick and tired of wallking softly around these wimp's.. I have more to say, but won't right now... jojo

what you are posting is about the injector cup... the injector only nee a light lube like assmbly lube to lube the o-rings and hold the seal ring in place for installation.. so what are you actually replacing? jojo

No sir. Can you probe the fuse's with a test light to see which ones dont light up on both sides, leave the key on so that most of the fuses will be live, then when you find the ones that are not hot on both sides, remove them to inspect them. there are little openings in the top of the fuses that you can stick the test light to.. jojo

no you are not wrong.... I get surprised at time's when I thought the parts would interchange.... what it does, is tell me I don't know what I thought I know... anyway... you do have 2 E-9's.... that is great... like I say a lot.... there is a lot of guy's here that know a boatload more than I do... your in the right place,... jojo

yes you can ... these hinges are a bit tough to change out so make sure the replacement hinge is tight... I suggest doing the bottom one first, and getting a helper or damn good bungies or rope to hold the door to do the top hinge.. jojo