Joey Mack

Check to see if the yoke nut came loose. Its 1 5/16", and you can check it with a wrench without having to seperate the u-joint. Torque is 550 ftlb, if i remember correctly..

You really dont need that tool for tapered king pins...

It was a tough day for me... 😁

Im a bit stumped. I think there is a welch plug inside the centrimax filter housing. Has it popped out? Its under the filter..

Is that the same truck you had in Spencer 2 weeks ago ?

I wish you great success... Curious how the Volvo will compare to the Hornet.. anyway, when i went local ... I realized I loved MY BED at HOME ...

FJH,,, you hit a nerve with me.. I used to get pissed off when ordering these parts.. How hard is the math?? really?? 12 studs and nuts for exh, 6 gaskets. ppackage them complete or in 6 packs... F'n stupid !!

JoeH,,, you are on top of this !!! Full Floater got some good info on this thread..

the tool i have is an OTC tool. it works very well.

Kent Moore is likly the brand name of the tool you used

i have an old nut that I cut flutes into to mak it a chaser...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cEWs2STA8AoMiWpG7 JoeH.. here is my king pin nut socket,,,, 1/2/drive...

Amen JoeH,,, the top cap may also be pinned in, and the welch plug types can be punctured with a sharp punch and twisted out,, you may squirt a bit of grease on you , but so what... I hesitate at times to say how many times I have done a repair, because I dont want to sound like a know it all, in this case,,, not a know it all, but a know quite a bit.. guy. dozens of king pin sets in Mack axles...

it just takes some work and attention so as to not damage the top of the knuckle as you drive out the old pin, once it moves a small amout it wil drift or drop out.. its tapered and it only needs to move laess than an inch, assuming your steering knucles arent siezed..

rubber duck,,, wheres the C-10?? all i see is the C-20 camper special

what year is the 'R'? I never used a tool like that, only ever set the axle beam on stands, pulled the wheels, and some times the backing plates, and knocked them out with a sledge hammer and a home made steel handle with an old king pin welded to one end of it. it take s 2 guys.. the bushings can be pushed out with the metal cutting bit on a good air hammer if they are the thicker brass bushings, if the bushings have a seam in them then you can drive a sharp beater screw driver in where the seam is and they will fall out. of course you may have to buff out the bore due to deep scratches.. not need to be abusive, just diligent.. theres more but I want to see your response.

the C-20 is the one I want.. I need to add more square bodies to my collection. only have 3

Heck if it is well maintained and not beat up from plowing, it seems fair..

can you post pictures of the info stamped into the main case near the fill plug. is this a T 107 twin stick. ?

is that engine set up for a cab over?

TJC.. ???? what???

good deal,, thats a Mack Mack not a Volvo Mack...

I doubt ECM.. I would look for damaged wires on the frame and not sure about wires on the diff. Memory escapes me right now..

It should be VJ1-3-0.8. So that is vehicle ECU plug J-1/ pin 3/. Wire size ( not relevant) .8.... The code stays the same on the whole circuit, this can be used to trace wires and use a DVOM to check continuity and such. This way you dont have to pull all the wires out, just look for that code.. i gave you this info in case you have to go deeper than the basic checks.. jojo

Ok. If this Mack has the Volvo frame, then there should be a bank if electric over air celenoids on the cross member behind the cab, possibly on the frame. There is where the air is sent to the lockers,