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Joey Mack

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Joey Mack

  1. Ok.. im dropping out of this one.. sorry GW. I was just asking a simple question.
  2. If you have 160, you need to look at the pop off valve, and dial the governor down or replace it.. 125-140 is good enough
  3. No way.. the pop off in the tank is set to 150.. theres the issue of its 160
  4. Is the leak on the back side of the box at the sector shaft bushing, where there is a 2"+ plastic cap ?
  5. What is the air pressure on the gauge when the drier blows off ?
  6. He said it drops to 80.. if he is releasing the trailer before blow off pressure, then I say. No Sh!t... Anyway, im not in the seat to see it. So I am likely out to lunch..
  7. So its not as simple as: he needs to wait for the trailer tanks to refill and then drive on ?? Occasionally i pull a detach trailer, and when I pop the brakes, the trailer dumps air, then when I release the brakes, i sit there for ten seconds till the suspension comes up, and off I go. This combo does not lose air when doing my air pressure/loss pre trip.
  8. Yes, but i cant do that. I have open holes, and it will be a mess that pisses me off. 🍻
  9. Uhhh.. too late.. the long block has been assembled for 3 years now. The truck frame just got back in the shop last year. I have rotated the engine and pulled the valve covers to pour oil in and on it then rotate a couple rounds. I even flipped the block and did the same to the crankshaft and connecting rods.. What else can I do ? Hell, I do all that without logging my time on the work order. I wish i had a way to make an I.V. for it with oil in it and a slow turning motor that will rotate the engine slowly so that oil will fill the ports and galleries. Crazy, I know....
  10. Sorry Mech.. the owners has a paint shop, and the painter will remove parts to paint it. I will do my best to set the injection pump up correctly, and I will blast the fuel lines and primer them, then loosely install them. I bet it will be 6 more months before it is started up. The B frame is on stands but no where near ready for the engine. If you want,,,, I can post a video of a 3 cyl. John Deere I built.. I have 3 of them.. They belong to the same customer.. 🍻
  11. I plan to finish the ENDT-673 this weekend. I've had some great guidance by a few guys here on the injection pump, the rest of it is easy.
  12. Do you mean the clip in speed nuts for the T-27 screws. If so, you can buy some of them at NAPA.
  13. 10 spd. ?? What other info and pictures do you have ?
  14. Sure is on all counts. Screw it, check lash, add the .010" like you said Mark, and down shift more.. it ain't worth taking it apart.. i have a pair of 680 heads in my shop. There might be some usable parts for him when he takes them apart and says ,,Ohh Sh!t... Now what do I do?
  15. A rebuild would be good, but at what price. The last one i did was 4 years ago and it was a thousand dollars for the kit.
  16. The gap looks large, but likely correct. The E-7 on into the E-TECH series have terrible engine brakes. They Suck!!! Dont loosen any of the set screws before checking lash. Make sure the engine is under 100 degrees or just plain cold.
  17. Great. Pull the ratchet towards the oil pan for proper rotation. Bring it to 1&6. Look at #2 exh. Rocker. It will be rocked when you are up on #1.. then you can start checking adjustment. If #2 exh. Is not rocked, you are up on #6. Roll the engine 360 and come back to 1&6 and start the lash check. You do the bridges first. .010" on both sides. I have a trimmed feeler gauge to fit in the gap at the engine brake reset screw. After the bridge is set, then do the Int. Then exh. And last is the engine brake lash. I assume you have Jacobs 680 heads. The jake lash is based on the HP and turbo model. Do you have that info, and the book ?
  18. Rotate the engine clockwise looking from the front. Do you have a barring tool to put in the flywheel housing... I am very particular about this topic...
  19. Heck, un hook the emergency line on each trailer brake chamber and cap the line. Then release the brakes and check for the leak. Do one at a time, hooking the removed line back up before going to another chamber. If the leak goes away, the the chamber with the line removed has a diaphragm leak. You can put a piggy back on it, or replace the whole chamber..
  20. Thank you. I agree, I am over thinking it.
  21. I just saw that Cracker Barrel pulled the new logo.. hope its true.. Not because i love the eatery..... Because of Principal!
  22. Bench timing . Like i used to do with Robert Bosch pumps that had TEM port. Just thought the pump needed to be pre-set before mounting it to the engine with the engine barred to the degrees on the data plate at BTDC.
  23. Well my pump is on the bench. I thought i was supposed to set the pump up on the bench, them set the engine to Zero BTC on #1 then install the pump, then back the engine up 30+ degrees and check the port closing against the degrees on the flywheel.
  24. Well, as long as I dont set the pump too hot and risk burning a piston,i will be ok. This truck is a restoration, and will likely see parades, and shows not hauling loads..
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