Joey Mack

Mech... you missed what I posted first..

There ya' Go!!

'04 granite,, I say a T-310.... or M L.R.

Bud, That is awesome ! I never used one, but would like to see it in action.. I have the Kent Moore tool, but I really like that there is a cost effective way to get the same resullts..

there is a small shaft that operates the range shuttle valve.. in the olden days you didnt pre-select the range, you would go to 'N' then range shift. then shift the lever normal way. ( I am a Double Clutcher) .. this set up allows pre-selection, and when the shift rails ar in 'N' the shuttle valve sends air to the rang shift cylinder. Long winded, I know, but this info may help. if the 'rod' is not functionung right, you likely will 'clash' the gears upon range shift..

Thanks Paul, I was just thinking about fixin' my post.. I know that there are many with the knowledge on these pitman arm's.. Please forgive me??

I say, never mind trying to by parts... take it apart first, clean the grease out and the threads of any rust and grit. if nothing shows dramatic wear, and if the spring is not compressed or broken, screw it back to gather, I bet it will tighten up then grease it... Guys,, what say you?? Jojo

yep, I missed it.. it's full mechanical..

of course I i dont know if its full mechanical or has the electric gov. housing.. I may have missed that.. we will see..

FJH,? I'm really rusty, but is it possible he has the timing pointers on the front of the engine? and his degrees are on the balancer? '96 E-7...

2 grand for the timing tool, holy crap.. ive been told that you can look in the hole and line up the 2 indicators, but i have never done it, i have the timing tool in my shop. Although, it makes sense because the tools contacts are opposite each other.

That picture is fuzzy, i hate that everything now a days is junk

yep...

definately needs a plate on the outside, and I would go with 3/8'' thick rather the the 3/16'' plate, high grade bolts, and stover nuts..

How about contacting Tony Corriher at Landis Plumbing, in Landis N.C. he has a bunch of OLD Fire house stuff.

Do you have the triangle panel on top of the dash? If so, they are under it. There is another one behind the clutch pedal.

🐮💩😁

there is no reason for any American to take that picture with that woman.... No good reason.. she shouldnt even be here, let alone in U.S. Congress....

when you seperate the housing, the shim pack may move with it, just do your best to add RTV to the shims if on both sides. typically the shims stay stuck together, no need to seperate them just seal what comes apart.

ok, so that is the rear carrier. what you can do is get (2) 16MM bolts about 4'' long and cut the heads off to make guide bolts. pull the bolts out of the carrier at the top side opposite bolts 10 and 2 o'clock.. then install the guide studs you made. then remove the rest of the 5/8'' 12 point bolts. then you cna slide the input housing forward with the drive shaft still in place and add some RTV to the carrier with a small screw driver or a paint stick, whatever. Of course clean the whole thing first, there will only be a small amount of oil leaking, use brake clean or equivlant to get ir dry and ready to take RTV.. do not block the oil galleries with the RTV.. no biggie, as far as preload, you wont be affecting that because you are sliding the assembly out, and right back in. no timing to worry about either.. and no tooth pattern to worry about either.. Jojo

Barry, when the time comes for the next coin, I will only buy 1,, so there will be 1 more to be sold. I had bought 2 each the last time.. looking forward to the release. Jojo

My new name for her... Kamalie Harris...

can you post a picture of what is leaking? not a close up, about 6 feet away.

I forgot, something about current control to the EUP's.. it controls fuel delivery and timing, if i remember right..

I think it was a C.C.R.S. series.